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Old 11-21-2010, 02:28 PM   #29
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Daniel The plate you speak of is the front holddown plate.
It is riveted from the front of the shell through the holddown plate.
There is also a row of rivets below the lower beltline throught the shell and the front C channel.
You have to drill out all these rivets to lift the shell.
The plate is indeed welded to the A frame(tongue of the trailer).
The plate slips between the outer skin of the shell and the C channel.
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Old 11-21-2010, 05:23 PM   #30
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Thanks. Done.

And we have liftoff. The shell is free from the trailer.
I did not put in diagonal braces because it would hinder me from getting the shell leveled out once I got it off of the trailer.
The shell is now off and level all around. The trailer looks like a pretzel.

There is a fabrication shop down the road from where I live. I found them by stopping by a big Sunbelt Rentals place (figured that they probably broke a lot of stuff) and asked them who did their welding. The shop rate for the welding place is $65 per hour for labor.

Estimate on time to weld a new trailer together, including cutting off and welding on the a-frame thing on the front?
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Old 11-21-2010, 05:34 PM   #31
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I'm also interested in knowing what the cost will be?
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Old 11-21-2010, 05:55 PM   #32
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Daniel and Judy, I had a local shop figure that I would take him 20 hrs to weld up the new frame. He was going to have the old one as a template to copy. Instead I had one of my campers do it here right on site so I'm not exactly sure about the time spent but it was probaly about the same or maybe 10 hrs more. That also included cutting off the A frame and installing the new axles. Because I had it done here it cost me a lot less($500) for welding. Between parts I ordered and had made,welding,POR-15 paint, and painting the whole frame cost about $2000. I paid $500 to a shop to paint the frame which included re & re the new axles during the frame painting. The frame received 4 coats of paint. This involved base coat on top flip, base coat on bottom flip,2nd base coat on top flip,2nd base coat on bottom flip, finish coat on top flip, finish coat on bottom flip,2nd finish coat on top, 2nd finish coat on bottom flip, install axles.
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Old 11-21-2010, 06:16 PM   #33
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I need to find a good local welder who will do it on his own time, at my house.

The only other real issue is the 20-odd foot steel beams. I was thinking that I could get them at a local steel place.. drag the old trailer there, strap the beams on and get them home like that. That would be an adventure..

How did you get the beams to your location?
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Old 11-21-2010, 06:30 PM   #34
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Daniel Well I had another camper make up the frame rails for me. He did it at his work and the brake(machine to bend metal) was only 12 ft long. So I recieved my main rails from him in 12 ft sections which he delivered in the back of his pick up. The welder here then welded the sections together on site. He staggered the joints so that they wouldn't be across from each other and boxed in the frame rails at that point. So it went like this: roadside from front 12 ft section,10 ft section, 5 ft section. Curbside from front 5 ft section,10 ft section, 12 ft section. The joints were at roadside 12ft and 22 ft from front, curbside 5ft and 17 ft from front.
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Old 11-21-2010, 06:32 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanielB View Post
...

How did you get the beams to your location?
The last time I bought fill length steel without a trailer, I had them set on the ground and I parked the truck on top of them. I lifted the front end of the beams and tie them to the front bumper, the back end to the hitch. With the beams slung under the truck I slowly made my way home.
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Old 11-22-2010, 09:15 PM   #36
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That is crazy with the rails under the truck. lol
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Old 11-22-2010, 09:22 PM   #37
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The two places that i called today about c channel told me that they only sold it in lengths of 20' and 40'. The 20' pieces of 11 gauge ( I have no idea what gauge that I need) is $99.

I have the shell released from the frame, but it is slow going getting it leveled out and finishing up the bracing.

I got a service manual today. I'd have never guessed that there were that many parts to the steps.
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Old 11-22-2010, 11:00 PM   #38
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Daniel don't be too fussy getting the shell absolutely level. As long as you get your new frame perfectly straight and level both side to side and back to front and have it properly supported during thr reinstall the shell will settle down and level itself out.
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Old 11-23-2010, 06:13 AM   #39
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not pretty

Well it is not pretty, and it was nasty work, but the shell is off..
As for getting it straight, the canary in the coal mine was the screen door.
For the most part any twist or give in the shell I could see and adjust by how the screen door closed.. lol

The entire curb side trailer frame was gone. The pressure that this was putting on the shell was no small amount, I'm sure. It is amazing that the shell could take this and bounce right back.. cool

The pictures are negative reversed.. it is an optical illusion.
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Old 11-23-2010, 07:02 AM   #40
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Good Morning Daniel Excellent work. It's is amazing how much give the shell has. When you lift the shell high enough to remove the chassis give yourself plenty of clearance between the wheel wells and the shell. I tried to cut it too close and didn't leave enough room because of the spacer block I had to install to keep the skin away from the 4x4's on the sawhorses. I had to let the air out of the tires to get the chassis out. When I went to put it back I had to lift the shell another 10 " because once I added new axles the floor now sat alot higher of the ground. IIRC the final height was around 42" from ground for shell to wheel well clearance.
I rewired the tongue jack/breakaway switch and ran new wires to the electric brakes. If you do the same before you pull out the old wires from the A frame tie a small rope to them. You can then use the rope to pull in the new wires.
I look forward to seeing your progress.
BTW the price for frame rails sounds great. 3 pcs x 20' = $297.
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Old 11-24-2010, 09:24 PM   #41
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Wasagachris, Thanks for the information. I'm waiting for a quote from my local welder.
DanielB, thanks for the pictures.
Judy
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Old 11-25-2010, 09:07 AM   #42
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Taking the tape measure to the backend of the chassis frame, I see that the main rails are 5" x 1.75" C channel 20 something feet long.

I had called around earlier and I can get the 5" x 1.75 C channel in lengths of 20 and 40 ft. The 20 ft. are 99$. Didn't ask about the 40'.

The cross members (except where floor joins) appear to be exactly the same dimension as the main C channel.

Is there any downside to me getting 2 40' lengths and using the extra to make 4 cross channels?
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