Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 01-16-2015, 08:11 AM   #1
2 Rivet Member
 
1974 31' Sovereign
middleburg , Virginia
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 23
'74 31' Rear end rot and PO fix

This is my first post so excuse my mistakes. I have found this forum incredibly valuable. A little information that might be useful, I don't plan on traveling in the AS. All it will do is move from the mountain in the winter, to a river lot 20 miles away for the summer.

So I recently purchased a 1974 31' center bath Sovereign. The PO had told me they repaired some of the rot in the rear end. Until doing a bunch of reading on here around floor replacement, I thought that they had some idea of how to repair it.

Now I think they didn't. I will try to attach pictures, but let me detail what I have found.

Firstly, the inner skins have never been removed. That was my first hint. There is a gap between the floor and the skin which has been filled with that spray insulation in a can.

From the outside I found that the rear part of the belly pan had been reattached. When I looked underneath I found it was framed with 2x4s as you can see from the pictures.

My questions are:

1. If they didn't take off the inner skin, then it is safe to say that the ply wood is not in the channel (I don't know if it is C or U). Is this a bandaid fix? Should I repair it correctly.

2. The second part that worries me is the 2x4 frame. Are there supposed to be cross members in the last few feet?

Image 1: Inside view of rear floor.

Image 2: Curbeside view of repair.

Image 3: Looking up at frame of the rear wall. I think you might be seeing the old floor still in the channel?

Image 4: Another view of the frame.

Sorry for the long post. Any help or insight would be greatly appreciated!
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_7348.jpg
Views:	112
Size:	273.7 KB
ID:	230516   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_7330.jpg
Views:	111
Size:	109.4 KB
ID:	230517  

Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_7339.jpg
Views:	115
Size:	211.2 KB
ID:	230518   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_7335.jpg
Views:	108
Size:	246.1 KB
ID:	230519  

__________________

__________________
cecreighton is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-16-2015, 08:16 AM   #2
Rivet Master
 
1981 31' Excella II
New Market , Alabama
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 5,649
That is not fixed. Pull it all out and do it right. Pull the belly skins and the rear inner skins and evaluate the frame. It will need to be repaired. There are tons of good posts on how to do this. Finish pulling it apart and take some more photos and we can give you more specifics or what you need to do. The good is that you have a center bath which makes it relatively easy to repair if the damage is confined to the rear of the trailer.

Perry
__________________

__________________
perryg114 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-16-2015, 09:53 AM   #3
Rivet Master
 
Belegedhel's Avatar
 
1973 21' Globetrotter
Houston , Texas
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 2,202
Welcome to the forums!

Yes, this looks like a bandaid fix, though it would appear they put some effort into it. In the rear of your trailer, the curved channel that is riveted to the skins is a U-channel, looking up. Unlike the channels on the straight sections of your wall, the channel does not wrap around the floor, it just sits on top of it. The PO may have crammed his new subfloor into the gap between the channel and the frame, but at any rate, there is still a huge gap, suggesting the frame is rotten or just plane broken, and is sagging away from the shell. This would further suggest that the bolts that are supposed to be holding this sandwich together have rotted away as well. There should be a steel cross member that goes between the two frame rails and basically sits under the back wall of the shell. It is not unusual for this cross member to be mostly rotted away. Moving toward the front of the trailer, there should be cross members at 2 ft intervals. Also in the rear, anchoring the rear center panel of the shell to the rear cross members, is an angled hold-down plate. Again, this is usually extremely rusted, if not completely compromised.

So, do you need to do a shell-off to fix this properly? Does it need to be fixed properly, considering you don't intend to travel with it? Shell off is probably not required, but you will need to address it "correctly," as it will only continue to get worse. if the frame has been completelybroken, and is hanging unsupported by the shell, it may not even be safe to make you short move you describe.

good luck!
__________________
Belegedhel is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-16-2015, 11:17 AM   #4
Rivet Master
 
J. Morgan's Avatar

 
1972 31' Sovereign
1975 31' Excella 500
Currently Looking...
Benton , Arkansas
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 5,046
Images: 11
I am going to look at this differently than the other posts.

You are moving the trailer forty miles a year.

I say stop further water intrusion and go camping.

The fix is no where close to being "right", but considering your use, if you can keep the water out it is good enough to leave alone.


1/2 Ton 4WD Truck, 72 Sovereign Hensley Arrow
__________________
The fact that I am opinionated does not presuppose that I am wrong......

J. Morgan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-16-2015, 12:30 PM   #5
Rivet Master
 
Currently Looking...
Nowhere , Somewhere
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 6,417
Blog Entries: 2
That short of trip and this repair should be fine, just stop the leak and go for it. Peace jim
__________________
avionstream is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-17-2015, 12:50 PM   #6
Regular Guy
 
NavyCorpsman's Avatar
 
1978 31' Sovereign
Hot Springs , Arkansas
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 572
I agree. A house should keep out most of the wind, some of the rain, and all of the wolves.
Photographs can be hard to judge. From what I see, the PO put some effort into it. Question. Does the repair support the weight it carries without creaking or flexing? (like its going to fall through?) Is it in a high traffic area?
I have some soft spots up front in mine, away from high traffic areas that don't cause me great concern. Some of the forum members will tell you that what you have must be repaired right away. Then there are those that will suggest that what you have is doable, as long as YOU are happy. Peace comes with confidence.

If it's UGLY to you and the mere thought of it causes distress, fix it to factory specs.

If it works, and there will be no further damage from infiltrating water from the outside, or leaky plumbing from within, run with it.
As with anything there are compromises that have to be made. As long as it is safe, and you can finish it to where nobody will know but you, that would be my choice.
I would LOVE to do a frame off on mine, but I have decided that will best be left to the fortunate child that inherits it.
To me, Airstreaming is about peace and freedom. Its about the Joy we can find in elegant simplicity. Whether towed twice in a year or 250,000 miles, as long as what you have is enjoyable, that's what is important. Welcome to the forum, friend.
__________________
NavyCorpsman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-19-2015, 09:05 AM   #7
Rivet Master
 
m.hony's Avatar
 
2013 30' Classic
Greenwood , Mississippi
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 11,835
Quote:
Originally Posted by J. Morgan View Post
I am going to look at this differently than the other posts.

You are moving the trailer forty miles a year.

I say stop further water intrusion and go camping.

The fix is no where close to being "right", but considering your use, if you can keep the water out it is good enough to leave alone.


1/2 Ton 4WD Truck, 72 Sovereign Hensley Arrow
What is the car in your avatar?
__________________
2013 Classic 30 Limited
2007 Silver Toyota Tundra Crew Max Limited 5.7 iForce
2006 Vivid Black Harley-Davidson Road King Classic
1999 Black Nissan Pathfinder LE
TAC #MS-10
WBCCI #1811, Region 6, Unit 56
Airforums #70955
m.hony is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-19-2015, 09:02 PM   #8
Regular Guy
 
NavyCorpsman's Avatar
 
1978 31' Sovereign
Hot Springs , Arkansas
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 572
Looks like a mid 50's Pontiac to me....a nice one too.
__________________
NavyCorpsman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-21-2015, 07:27 PM   #9
2 Rivet Member
 
1974 31' Sovereign
middleburg , Virginia
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 23
Thanks for all the advice and info. Whatever I am going to do is going to have to wait til spring time. Also give me some more time to do my research.
__________________

__________________
cecreighton is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Classic rear end floor rot Gearheart All Argosy Trailers 13 09-09-2014 07:12 AM
Is this plan a sound rear end floor rot patch? Tony S Repairing/Replacing Floor &/or Frame 16 03-08-2013 08:42 PM
Rear end floor rot? DEWASSINC Repairing/Replacing Floor &/or Frame 3 09-01-2011 03:39 PM
how much rot is too much rot? adwriter73 Repairing/Replacing Floor &/or Frame 56 03-01-2010 12:05 AM
To rot or not to rot. Charming Wino Repairing/Replacing Floor &/or Frame 15 03-01-2004 11:39 PM


Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 02:09 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.