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Old 01-21-2013, 07:28 AM   #43
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There are places where there is a bulkhead and if you seal the bottom of that then you will have separate compartments. I would put a drain near each bulk head and maybe one or two between them. This way if the trailer is not level the water will run to the nearest drain. Make sure you seal the pipe at the top so water can't leak around it. The separate compartments will help you isolate a leak if it does get past your drains. Seal all screw heads and penetrations through the C-channel. You can test your drains with water in something like a bicycle bottle. This will help you figure out if you missed something.

Perry
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Old 01-22-2013, 10:56 AM   #44
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So, I ordered some of the Red Devil Butyl Gray caulk, and afterwards called to make sure everything went through OK only to find out that it was going to be over 3 weeks before they were going to ship it due to the fact that they had to get if from the manufacturer. I canceled and ordered another product called DAP butyl-flex in gray from another location.

Today I get an email saying that the original order had shipped after I had canceled, and that they were honoring the refund due to their mistake. Looks like I'll have a chance to try out both products. Its suprising how hard it is to find this stuff in stock anywhere.
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Old 01-22-2013, 11:48 AM   #45
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How strange. Butyl-flex is readily available here in Abq.
Most homeowners and too many contractors use (and misuse) silicone for everything. Because of this some stores may be selling less and less non-silicone caulk.
That said, you will be happy with the DAP.
When I managed a hardware and building supply store here in Abq, I sold only DAP caulking and sealing products and never had a customer complaint.
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Old 04-29-2013, 06:44 PM   #46
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Been making big progress lately, but hit a bump. I am re-installing all electrical components and am trying to figure out where a few wires go.

First off, the ac wire compartment in the univolt (lower left) I have a black wire and a white wire coming out of the univolt...but I have 3 wires in the "loom" that head back to the AC breakers; white, blue/black, and the non insulated. What goes where?

Second, there are 3 light gauge wires wires that did not go into the fuse compartment in the univolt; red, black and grey. red and black have what looks like a in line glass fuse connector, and the grey has a spade connector that looks like it should be a ground connection. Service manual makes me think that they have something to do with the "central control panel". Ideas? See pic below at top of image:

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Old 04-29-2013, 06:53 PM   #47
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sneak peak of inside coming together...

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Old 04-29-2013, 07:05 PM   #48
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The guesses below are close to correct, but no guarantees!

pink, yellow, brown, purple -- these came out of the fuse block and each one feeds a separate 12V circuit (lights, vent fan, pump, etc.)

heavy white -- ground to the Airstream shell and negative to battery

heavy blue -- charging line from the tow vehicle. it also often feeds the radio and maybe some other stuff in the eyebrow cabinet

heavy black -- +12 to battery

small fused wires (black and red, I think) -- these feed the volt and amperage meters in the control panel.

one other wire -- this wire feeds 12V to the "Power On" light on the control panel. This shows that the Univolt has 115V to it. You can duplicate this function by finding a 12V plug-into-the-wall power transformer and hook it up to the light. Modern converters don't supply a separate 12V output to show that 115V is available.

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Old 04-29-2013, 09:48 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zeppelinium View Post
The guesses below are close to correct, but no guarantees!

pink, yellow, brown, purple -- these came out of the fuse block and each one feeds a separate 12V circuit (lights, vent fan, pump, etc.)

heavy white -- ground to the Airstream shell and negative to battery

heavy blue -- charging line from the tow vehicle. it also often feeds the radio and maybe some other stuff in the eyebrow cabinet

heavy black -- +12 to battery

small fused wires (black and red, I think) -- these feed the volt and amperage meters in the control panel.

one other wire -- this wire feeds 12V to the "Power On" light on the control panel. This shows that the Univolt has 115V to it. You can duplicate this function by finding a 12V plug-into-the-wall power transformer and hook it up to the light. Modern converters don't supply a separate 12V output to show that 115V is available.

Zep
I believe this is the original converter, so is there a specific location I am supposed to fasten the spade connector on the univolt?

Also, any thought on the 115 wiring coming into the converter? I feel like the un-insulated third wire can be left unconnected, and want to hook white to white and black to black...but want to be sure.
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Old 05-10-2013, 12:24 AM   #50
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you are right, connect white [110vac] which is neutral to white on converter, black is to black [110vac hot]---the bare wire for the converter is ALWAYS attached to the grounding lug of the converter, or the outside of it;s case.

also if you like an alternative to the 12 volt transformer idea..to know you have 110vac to converter... wire a 110 volt a/c neon indicator light to the power [the black and white , 110vac, you can use a shielded small gauge wire.] going to the converter.... mount the small bulb in the same location in the control panel [neon bulbs run super cool, and almost never burn out] cost about three bucks at radio shack.....
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Old 10-31-2013, 12:06 PM   #51
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It's been a while since the last update, but I have a question.

I have all of the plumbing done now and fired up the water heater last night for the first time. Heats the water great, but after running the hot water for about 10 seconds or so the water pressure starts dropping and I end up with a pretty disappointing a out of flow. Cold side holds a strong and steady flow....is there anything I can do about this and can anyone explain what's going on?

FYI: pretty sure this is the original water heater I'm dealing with.
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Old 10-31-2013, 12:12 PM   #52
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Water heaters don't last 40 years.

They usually last 25 years or so.

You have more than got your moneys worth on that one.

Replace it.

Andy
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Old 10-31-2013, 12:14 PM   #53
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What that normally means:
Sediment and scale from the unused water heater is carried to the faucets where it clogs the aerators and sometimes the water mixing valve itself.
In the future, always drain and flush the water heater tank a couple times before you open a faucet.
Hope this helps.
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Old 10-31-2013, 03:24 PM   #54
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Quote:
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Water heaters don't last 40 years.

They usually last 25 years or so.

You have more than got your moneys worth on that one.

Replace it.

Andy
If it comes down to it I will certainly have to. Do you have any knowledge on what would be the closest thing to an updated direct replacement for this model?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Alumaholic View Post
What that normally means:
Sediment and scale from the unused water heater is carried to the faucets where it clogs the aerators and sometimes the water mixing valve itself.
In the future, always drain and flush the water heater tank a couple times before you open a faucet.
Hope this helps.
It test this theory by pulling the hot water hose of the mini washer/dryer I installed. This should work to " flush" any debris in the tank.

I'm assuming the construction of this tank is basically a 10 gallon tank with a heater tube that runs through it?
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Old 10-31-2013, 03:36 PM   #55
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If it comes down to it I will certainly have to. Do you have any knowledge on what would be the closest thing to an updated direct replacement for this model?



It test this theory by pulling the hot water hose of the mini washer/dryer I installed. This should work to " flush" any debris in the tank.

I'm assuming the construction of this tank is basically a 10 gallon tank with a heater tube that runs through it?
Atwood G-10 models will fit.

Andy
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Old 11-01-2013, 04:28 PM   #56
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In passing yesterday I opened up the drain for the hot water line. Strong initial pressure, but dropped to a dribble soon after. A nice steamy dribble, but a dribble none the less.

Gonna hook up a bypass hose to the ball valve just before the water heater to make sure that there isn't some sort of restriction before the heater causing this. If I have good steady pressure there, looks like I'm in 400 bucks for a new heater...not to mention the uninstall and reinstall. Not excited about that.
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