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Old 12-03-2012, 07:32 AM   #15
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c o r r e c t i o n should read bananna outside of shell

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Without a doubt rust from leaks and Airstreams 70's design defect ( shell skin on outside of banana wrap ) letting h20 into the under floor areas is a simple fix....weld or do whats needed to repair frame, outrigger damage and properly re-seal / caulk where wrap overlaps shell skin and caulk aluminum trim pieces to keep water out. Additionally I have drilled 1/8 " holes in low spots in wrap and belly skin to let water out. I can't imagine the conditions under a Airstream being towed in heavy rain. Gonna get wet all over. Check how the area around the step is NOT sealed and very vulnerable. 2nd point. I'm now a firm believer that alot of frame damage is caused by old torsion axles that the rubber cushioning / flexing / twisting is gone because the rubber has solidified considerable. Try driving your car or truck without springs.....Terrible ride and thusly causes the entire trailer to get beat up with every bump. The only cushioning on a vintage Airstream is the little give in the tires and what may be left in the axle rubber. I have installed new axles in a 77 31' rear bath and it gained ~ 3+ inches in height and the ride is much softer. Everything inside stays in place much better and it has to reduce the fatigue on the frame , shell etc. New axles are a good investment.
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Old 12-12-2012, 06:33 PM   #16
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Are you sure about that...?
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Old 12-16-2012, 08:55 AM   #17
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Wonder what a air ride suspension would do for it??? Anybody try one yet????

I converted my Moryde to air bags, man what great system.
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Old 12-17-2012, 02:32 PM   #18
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I got the street side wheel well installed over the weekend, but the rain haulted me there(pictures soon I promise). when I came back this morning to check on it before going to work I found a small puddle on top of the wheel whell, which reminded me of a small leak I had discovered before taking things apart.

There is a small drip that comes out between the interior skin and the window chanel. I ran water over it before and couldnt duplicate the leak. I really dont want to rip apart the interior skins to track this guy down, but dont know of any other way. Suggestions?
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Old 12-17-2012, 09:32 PM   #19
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I got the street side wheel well installed over the weekend, but the rain haulted me there(pictures soon I promise). when I came back this morning to check on it before going to work I found a small puddle on top of the wheel whell, which reminded me of a small leak I had discovered before taking things apart.

There is a small drip that comes out between the interior skin and the window chanel. I ran water over it before and couldnt duplicate the leak. I really dont want to rip apart the interior skins to track this guy down, but dont know of any other way. Suggestions?
I think someone suggested hooking a large blower up to the trailer, with all opening being closed, and then check for leaks with soap bubbles. The positive interior air pressure should show up as leaks from the outide, using the soap bubbles.
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Old 12-17-2012, 09:58 PM   #20
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Yup. Used a big-o-blower and it bubbled all of the leaks...
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Old 12-18-2012, 10:50 AM   #21
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I just so happen to have one of those for a huge inflatable water slide we got my daughters b-day. I might give that a shot once I get the floors back in....
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Old 01-08-2013, 03:51 PM   #22
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Well I found the leak, it was some fasteners just above the rear street side window that hadnt been sealed on the back side, so water was just coming right through there. Also spotted some others on the roof, most all seams up there have been covered in a black brittle tar of some sort.

Some picture updates.

Wheel wells installed with new floor sections...forgive the dirty walls, its a bit of a work zone in there.





Overall shot of the floors, sealed all around with west system epoxy.



The C-channel around the rear is pretty chewed up due to some steel fasteners as was the Rear hold down plate and the channel on the frame. I cut out and replaced the frame channel along with many other frame mods I did, and am using these 3/16 aluminum washers I made to re fasten the channel back there.





My audiance/work site tornado crew....



New tank mounts and some under side shots with plumbing and insulation.











Today I'm bringing in the lady to help finish insulating the walls that I have pulled while I re-install the water heater.
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Old 01-11-2013, 10:11 AM   #23
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One question, I noticed that the caulk originally used in the trailer is a good bit different than the tempro 635 I have been using from vintage trailer supply.

Are there any products on the market today that are more similar to the original caulk used? That stuff seems to adhere way better, and is just amazing that the stuff is still pliable 40 years later!
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Old 01-11-2013, 10:20 AM   #24
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A butyl rubber self-leveling gutter caulk may be a close match to the original - something that requires solvent air drying to harden versus a moisture catalyst reaction. Since the regulation of Volatile organic compounds (VOCs) for 'cleaner air' occurred the exact old formulas are no longer retailed in the consumer channels, they still exist but are OEM bulk or in-house production materials.
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Old 01-19-2013, 08:29 PM   #25
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A butyl rubber self-leveling gutter caulk may be a close match to the original - something that requires solvent air drying to harden versus a moisture catalyst reaction. Since the regulation of Volatile organic compounds (VOCs) for 'cleaner air' occurred the exact old formulas are no longer retailed in the consumer channels, they still exist but are OEM bulk or in-house production materials.
What mean you "self-leveling"? haha.

I came across this stuff, any input? I saw on vintage trailer that they carried an aluminum gutter sealant, so I thought this might do the job.

Red Devil Butyl - Gray

Or is there maybe something else you fellas might recommend?
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Old 01-19-2013, 08:53 PM   #26
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Any modern butyl-rubber caulk will be as good or better (unless the EPA has made them eliminate the most important active ingredient as the FDA did with Preparation-H, but that's a different story). As near as I can tell, it was gray, butyl-rubber caulk then, and it should still work now. Red Devil is as good a brand as any, and hasn't seemed to change since I worked in a glass shop in the '60s.
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Old 01-19-2013, 08:59 PM   #27
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Any modern butyl-rubber caulk will be as good or better (unless the EPA has made them eliminate the most important active ingredient as the FDA did with Preparation-H, but that's a different story). As near as I can tell, it was gray, butyl-rubber caulk then, and it should still work now. Red Devil is as good a brand as any, and hasn't seemed to change since I worked in a glass shop in the '60s.
Thats what I wanted to hear, I'll get a few tubes on order.
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Old 01-19-2013, 09:49 PM   #28
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Where did you get your holding tanks from?
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