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Old 05-16-2008, 05:18 PM   #1
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1973 31' Sovereign
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'73 International 31 center bath

just some pic. of floor and frame repairs.

jim.
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Old 05-16-2008, 06:15 PM   #2
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You really should have added a "R" rating to the title - those are some powerfully disturbing images, no instant warm & fuzzy there for sure...

NICE WORK - keep the pictures coming!!!
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Old 05-17-2008, 09:39 AM   #3
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more pic.

some more pic. but the date is off, all work is this last month.
jim.
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Old 05-17-2008, 09:57 AM   #4
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Jim, those photos sure bring back old memories! You're lucky. My frame was in bad shape and is being completely replaced. Looks like you had a serious leak. Have you located the source? I was looking at photos 5 & 6 in your first post at the rear-ward most cross-member. It's difficult to see but what's the condition of that cross-member?
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Old 05-17-2008, 11:11 AM   #5
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Jim , yep pictures are worth lotsa words. But a few words might just help many of us to be better oriented to what we are looking at.

Looks like your well into it and doin' well. If my eyes don't lie you chose not to remove the belly pan.

happy trails
dd
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Old 05-17-2008, 12:52 PM   #6
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Angry

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leak's in rear of trailer were:
1. street side tail light assembly not even fastened. no seal at all just sitting there. dont know how it made it when i towed it home (3.5 hrs.)
2. the back assembly that attaches to frame and lifts up for storage.
this whole area trapped water on top and seeped thru to the end grain of plywood.
3. where the outer shell fastens to "c" channel, and plywood is inside of channel seems to stay dry, all radius areas where the outer skin does not cover end grain of plywood are rotted. this will be addressed by fiberglass and flashing.

re: photos 5&6
the last three cross members were left in place, the bottom half of rear cross member Photo "5" was gone and i fabricated two pieces of 5" angle from 5-1/2" 18 guage track. at rear i made it into a "C". middle one (photo 5 center) i made it a z and one photo "3" towards front of trailer just "L".
the side wings that the banna wrap molds around i am doing today. so far i have 14 done, just fastening along existing. also wire wheeled the frame and painted with por 15.

jim.
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Old 05-17-2008, 12:59 PM   #7
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distantdrummer

re: bellypan
i removed all including banana wrap.
rear belly pan could not get out due to curb side axel bracket (post 1 photo 3) that connects to inside of frame.

any suggestions on this removal?
also what else could be done while i still have it all open?

jim.
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Old 05-17-2008, 01:24 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cuyd
leak's in rear of trailer were:
1. street side tail light assembly not even fastened. no seal at all just sitting there. dont know how it made it when i towed it home (3.5 hrs.)
2. the back assembly that attaches to frame and lifts up for storage.
this whole area trapped water on top and seeped thru to the end grain of plywood.
3. where the outer shell fastens to "c" channel, and plywood is inside of channel seems to stay dry, all radius areas where the outer skin does not cover end grain of plywood are rotted.
Except for no. 1 nos. 2 & 3 are the classic points for leaks and are the points where I had the same trouble.

Quote:
re: photos 5&6
the last three cross members were left in place, the bottom half of rear cross member Photo "5" was gone and i fabricated two pieces of 5" angle from 5-1/2" 18 guage track. at rear i made it into a "C". middle one (photo 5 center) i made it a z and one photo "3" towards front of trailer just "L".
the side wings that the banna wrap molds around i am doing today. so far i have 14 done, just fastening along existing.
I thought I had spotted a bad cross-member....have had some experience! I for one would love to see closer photos of how you repaired the cross-member and those outriggers.

Here's what I found on my rig when I first opened the rearward wrap behind the bumper storage box.
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Old 05-17-2008, 09:39 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by cuyd
distantdrummer

re: bellypan
i removed all including banana wrap.
rear belly pan could not get out due to curb side axel bracket (post 1 photo 3) that connects to inside of frame.

any suggestions on this removal?
also what else could be done while i still have it all open?

jim.
Here is a photo of the point on my rig where the lower c-channel of the frame meets the axle-bracket. There is a space between the axle-bracket and the trailer frame and the pan sits on top of the bracket. As I recall its a tight fit there and the pan here also sits very close to the axle mounting plate. But once all the rivets are out the pan can be inched back and forth and will slide right out. Finding all the hidden rivets can be a task in itself. Good luck!
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Old 05-17-2008, 10:11 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cuyd

re: bellypan
i removed all including banana wrap.
rear belly pan could not get out due to curb side axel bracket (post 1 photo 3) that connects to inside of frame.

any suggestions on this removal?
also what else could be done while i still have it all open?

jim.
Not sure Jim.
I have taken note of a member or two who installed some type of backer to make it easier to re-attach the belly pan. But if you used treated lumber strips, those might react with the metal they were hung off of or the aluminum belly pan. If you used aluminum angle it might react with the metal it screwed to. But a couple of length of the trailer strips would (it seems) make hanging the belly back securely alot easier.

Only other thing I can imagine is wiring for some speakers or electrical add on.
Another thing while in floor might be to clean out the heater ducts if accessable. Or are they above floor?

I would surely do everything possible to make the belly of my trailer as impenetratable to vermin as was humanly possible.
Also you might place a write up of your improvements and history of the trailer in a mason jar and seal it up in the belly ( as a time capsule) for some future owner.
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Old 05-18-2008, 01:45 AM   #11
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I'll will be replacing the rear floor on mine soon. It looks like you have a solid sheet of plywood across the back which how I'd like to do it. With only the lower interior skin removed will the channel move enough to accept the solid sheet of ply? Thoughts on not installing it as a solid piece, two halves?
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Old 05-18-2008, 09:45 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Not Done
I'll will be replacing the rear floor on mine soon. It looks like you have a solid sheet of plywood across the back which how I'd like to do it. With only the lower interior skin removed will the channel move enough to accept the solid sheet of ply?
On my 1970 Overlander I was able to install that sheet in one piece by using the opening where the water heater had been removed for additional clearance. You can see pictures of the trial fit here and the finished product here. To do this you will have to have at least two sections of subfloor removed so that the sheet will remain flat with the frame. I am hoping to be able to do the front most sheet this same way by using the door opening. Since the sheet between the wheel wells is a solid piece that will make half of my subfloor not spliced (3 out of 6 sheets).

One problem that I can see if you decide to splice you bathroom floor would be in splice block at the center seam. It would be directly over you black tank and there probably is not enough room for it to clear.
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Old 05-18-2008, 01:59 PM   #13
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monocoque:

cross member and outrigger photos.

as far as bellypan @ axel, my bracket is tight to "C" channel. three are fine but rear street side is the problem.

jim.
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Old 05-18-2008, 02:02 PM   #14
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the rest of photos.

jim.
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