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Old 07-19-2014, 03:27 PM   #1
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1972 25' Tradewind
fort lauderdale , Florida
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Posts: 152
'72 rear frame repair

The next step in my “full monty” process is to sandblast, weld/repair and Por-15 my frame. (You can see the rear of my 72 Tradewind shell in the back ground of Pic 1) I looked for a 72 Tradewind bare frame pic in the forum but couldn’t not find one. If someone has a link to one or a pic of one, it would answer most of the below questions.

The PO had gutted the trailer and removed the rear flooring to replace the rotted frame. The addition/repair is not level and done with the wrong C-channel.

In Pic 1 (A) is pointing to where he cut and added new C-channel(Pic 2 is a blowup). Pic 3 shows the type of C-channel.

1. Is the 5”x 1-1/2” x 1/8” C-channel needed for the frame available at steel supply companies or does it have to fabricated?

2. In my service manual diagram and multiple frame pics on the forum show the 1”x1” cross member(Pic 1) (B) should actually be the same as cross member (D). Is that correct? Is the 1”x1” cross member (C) correct?

3. When adding the new C-channel extension, is it totally necessary to add the frame “skid plate” as shown in(pic 4) from the manual, labeled #27, and circled in a members frame photo (Pic 5). Pic 5 looks to be an older year frame b/c the cross members are solid.

4. Lastly, When/if adding the skid plate, is it the same 5” x 1-1/2” x1/8” C-channel welded to the bottom of the main frame C-channel?

Thanks to all who contribute their knowledge and experience to this forum. I couldn’t/wouldn’t be doing this renovation without AIRFORUMS!
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Old 07-19-2014, 03:45 PM   #2
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1973 21' Globetrotter
Houston , Texas
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So, nothing gospel about what I am about to tell you, but...

On my '73 GT, I too had to replace the last several feet of my frame. I took it to a place that specialized in fabricating various kinds of trailers, and when I recovered it, they had replaced the rotten main rails with stuff practically identical to what you have. I then did some research, and discovered that the original frame rails were most likely a "custom" fab. I didn't get too worried about it, and so far, it has been fine. I did check to make sure that it was all level and straight, which it was.

I supplied my welder with a "factory" cross member I ordered from outofdoorsmart.com, and they also fabbed up another replacement for one that was also beyond repair. I believe that the 1"x1" crossmember on your trailer is not stock, and is whatever was handy.

My '73 also had that frame extension "skid plate" on the rear, but to my recollection, it was only on one side, and it was only a couple inches thick/deep. The "shore water" inlet was mounted on it, and that is all I recall it really did. Some accounts of it I have heard describe it as a mechanism to deepen the bumper trunk, but again, I don't recall that this was what it actually did on my trailer.
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Old 07-20-2014, 07:13 PM   #3
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1972 25' Tradewind
fort lauderdale , Florida
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Thanks Belegedhel,

My only concern about reusing the same type C-channel the PO used was the weight difference. Since the rear of the trailer is cantilevered out, I thought keeping the weight down using thinner 1/8" thick C-channel (like original) would be the way to go, but I'm not an engineer or trailer fabricator either.

I will be ordering my crossmember from outdoormart as well.

I've attached a pic (not my trailer) showing the thinner skid plate you mentioned. Not sure if it's on both sides or not.
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Old 07-20-2014, 07:31 PM   #4
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1972 25' Tradewind
Hopkins , Minnesota
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'72 Tradewind frame

Here's a couple pics of my '72 Tradewind frame.

As far as I know, these pics represent the original construction of the frame. I don't believe the 1x1 members that the PO installed on your frame are sturdy enough to carry the weight back there without twisting and eventually failing. The drain hole is also different. If you look closely at mine, there is a rectangular hole cut in the frame just aft of the 2nd to last cross member. When I took my frame to the welder....I was a bit ignorant...he boxed in the main rails from the wheels to the bumper...due to degradation of the rail. He also replaced the rearmost cross member and the 2nd to last crossmember with solid steel. Although it adds weight, I decided to keep it, as I will not have a bath back there....just storage and a bed.

Let me know if I can give you any other information.
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Old 07-20-2014, 07:40 PM   #5
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1981 31' Excella II
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The newer trailers have a 5" tall box beam. This is better than the open C-channel used on the older trailers. Some have two of the C-channels that you have welded together facing each other. A taller C-channel will make and even stronger frame but may complicate putting the skins back on.

Perry
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Old 07-20-2014, 07:44 PM   #6
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1972 31' Sovereign
1975 31' Excella 500
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I used 3/16" or 1/4" (cant remember which) when replacing the last four feet of my Sovereign frame, while heavier, I don't think it is a negative issue.

Where the repair isn't straight, it can be pie cut and re welded.

Probably overkill, but I fishplated the splice.


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Old 07-20-2014, 07:51 PM   #7
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1972 25' Tradewind
Hopkins , Minnesota
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'72 Tradewind frame

My repaired frame.

Sorry - these pics don't really show as much as I thought. But my main rails are boxed in from the rear wheel to the bumper. And the last 2 cross members are solid C channel steel.

One thing to remember, is that every other cross member is lowered 3/4inch to allow for the bracing that spans the sections of sub-floor. My welder did not do that on my 2nd to last cross member....and I did not realize it until too late. It caused some issues with the floor...but not too bad.
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Old 07-20-2014, 08:02 PM   #8
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1972 25' Tradewind
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Thank you arktos, your pics help immensely. Looks like I'll be buying 2 cross members
Does anyone know the height of the skid plate? Looks about 2to 2-1/2 inches.

Thanks Perry, boxing in the c-channel is something I thought about. If you look at the plates with circles in them in the forward part of the frAme in arktos pics, I have frame rot there and have to replace that plate on the curb side.
I've drawn the plate in cad and will have it cut by water jet. I could use the same plate to box in the rear part of the frame as well.

J.Morgan, I won't be doing the welding but will be assisting (learning). I thought an additional plate welded over the splice would help. I'm not familiar with "fishplated" ..what is that?

Thanks
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Old 07-20-2014, 08:07 PM   #9
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Frame looks great arktos!!
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Old 07-20-2014, 08:07 PM   #10
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I can check the height of my skid plate tomorrow, and let you know
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Old 07-20-2014, 08:07 PM   #11
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A fishplate is a piece welded across the splice to spread the load....

Kind of like a scab....


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Old 07-20-2014, 08:21 PM   #12
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1972 25' Tradewind
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That's the term I know, "scab"

Any info (dimensions, etc.) on the plate you can give me, would help Arktos.
Thank you
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Old 07-20-2014, 08:26 PM   #13
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'72 rear frame repair

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