- thanks Butch and Sundance for the lock info, man those numbered camlocks are so sweet I might have to spring for a set and just throw the dang keys away...
- got the wiring hooked back up and some of the plumbing...enough to start putting the floor in anyway...oh, and I went under and slapped some insulation on the belly and around the tankbox..just randomly putting pink foam board and Reflectix...whaddoo I know from insulation here anyway, it's usually like a hundred and twenty degrees in the shade...
-I think the real issue is to try and get the tank box sealed up as best you can since if'n you have a two inch gap somewhere(even if the rest is sealed) guess where all your beloved heat is gonna go when it gets real cold: right out of that two inch gap! .....
so I tested the hot water heater and it held pressure real nice-like...couldn't find any leaks so I POR'ed the rusty edges and slipped it back in with butyl tape all around...that stuff is like abc gum and you want to trim it off around the edges...its funky:
- I was out there havin' me a chaw and my sweet lil Judi came by and gave me a kiss so I made her do it again for the camera... our cranky old 14 year old four legged man wouldn't come outside so he din't get his pitcher took...special thanks to the signif-other-wife-partner-babymomma for lettin' me make such a gawdawful mess back there...one day I'll clean it up...
I decided to use this industrial type linoleum-lookin' vinyl tiles since they look almost exactly like the OEM tile and are incredibly cheap (like me) and come in nice retro colors...stuff called 'Azrock' by Tarkett...they use it in hospitals and stuff..supposed to last forever. I took Inland Andy's advice and laid it with the seams to match the splices in the subfloor cuz supposedly it'll show any cracks a lot less if they develop later...you put it on with a contact glue called Parabond. nice stuff, doesn't stick much but you gotta let it dry an hour or so before stick-down..
'so what's up with the flange stickin' there anyway?' you're wondering...here's the deal: the only flange I could find locally only had like a half-inch of threads (for the tank) so once I got that puppy threaded in the tank I'm terrified of backing it out since it might be REAL HARD to thread up again...so I backed it out just enough to slip the tile under then I'm gonna tighten it back up when the tile dries...have a swingin' weekend...lookout beaches...I'm gonna be landing soon....
Thanks Wabbiteer,
I got it done right this time and now I am just waiting for the bolts from Vintage. No movement and solid. I mitered the edges going under the cabin because it was too tight to get into place otherwise. Then I sledged the new pieces into place. I painted all ends and top and bottoms to seal.
I honestly would not have done this over if you had not interceded the project. Thank's for helping.
I just posted my photos and got all yours. I used painted floor decking. What is Nyloboard?
Fotochop, Have you done the black water trap already and just in the last day or so?
Hope I can move forward now myself. I need to repipe now. Any suggestions on the black pipe?
I just posted my photos and got all yours. I used painted floor decking. What is Nyloboard?
Fotochop, Have you done the black water trap already and just in the last day or so?
Hope I can move forward now myself. I need to repipe now. Any suggestions on the black pipe?
google nyloboard and you'll find a poly-composite-non-wood-sheet product that oughta last forever, only possible drawback being a bit more flexible than plywood but you can deal with that...kinda pricey though...
got all the black abs drain pipe back together (I had chopped it in a coupla places to make easier the floor insert and just glued the chops back up with nipples (sleeves..in the oilfield we called 'em 'nipples')...kinda tricky to get that tub drain back in with no floor access..use a lotta plumber's putty... also took me a while to figure out the tub drain has no nut, well, mine didn't, but the lav drain DOES have a nut (which is why I broke off the p-trap there way back in the beginning of this thread)...I guess the lav drain has a nut because it's not static & supported like the tub is and might sway while rolling down the hiway...but if that sucker ever has to come off again I will need to figure out how to get access from behind/beneath to get the dang nut off first...also: since the chrome lav drain piece is nutted on this means I will have to tighten the nut, THEN GLUE the abs drain pipe in its fitting AFTER....whew! man, those AS engineers sure knew how to make things difficult...I"m hoping somebody replies: 'lose the nut, you don't need it'...I must have a screw loose...;-)
not sure what your'e referring to as "black water trap"...it's just a toilet flange-screwed into the tank...the dump valve assembly has it's own "tee" where the gray water exits AFT of the dump valve...I changed my Thetford to an easier-to-find Valterra since my Thetford Tee was Toast and I didn't wanna get it repaired...
Hey Rick, I understand! I have to have the tub gel-coated first so putting it back in will be some time. I will google "Valterra" for a new dump valve and trade in the old one for brass scrap! Heavy sucker! I am not going to replace this latest floor repair, she's done. Where did you get the black abs pipe that small? (PLS)
Hey Rick, I understand! I have to have the tub gel-coated first so putting it back in will be some time. I will google "Valterra" for a new dump valve and trade in the old one for brass scrap! Heavy sucker! I am not going to replace this latest floor repair, she's done. Where did you get the black abs pipe that small? (PLS)
it's all 1.5 inch abs which should be available at any decent hardware store.. there's a recent thread by a guy who rebuilt his brass dump valve using a couple of o-rings from McMaster if you decide you want to keep it. I think Inland RV has a method of repairing the Thetford T's although I haven't seen anyone else say they could, if you're having dump tee problems..
Thanks Rick,
Eh! it leaks man, You know I can't have that stinky junk going on. But your right about rebuilding it. I don't know how to do allot of data transfer yet but he has a thread just for the Dump valve repair. I just need to replace the O ring that's all. Crapper hasn't been used for years so it isn't too bad if I don't think on it too much.
Just make it right ! right?
Washed the walls and clipped all the stubbed rivits out. Ready to primer the inside next week end.
How's your coming along?
...1.5 inch ABS which should be available at any decent hardware store...
In my state (and many others) it is prohibited from residential construction so it's not readily available at the traditional supply outlets... but they do have it at the RV parts places.
In my state (and many others) it is prohibited from residential construction so it's not readily available at the traditional supply outlets... but they do have it at the RV parts places.
glad you guys have the building trades on a tight leash up there, bc, it makes for safer and more uniform living spaces. down here we can use bamboo... unless it's cracked...then you have to put some jb weld on it...
had a little electrical issue I had to get help on, paris, but should be posting another short update later today...still pushing hard to be beach camping by May...
Question! The two braces that run corner to corner under the belly pan that support the black tank. It looks like it is welded to the frame.
I thought they were suppose to be held in place with a bolt so you can drop the belly. How was your in place for you to remove. It looks like there is a double angle iron at the back that makes a lip for the belly alumn, holding it in place. There are a couple bolts on the far sides that attach to that plate that is the floor attached to the bumper. I am sorry this is hard for me to explain. Are we going to have to remove the floor attached to the bumper, cut the bolts and or the angle iron (which is welded in various spots). Not sure if this was factory or PO did something. Hubby is afraid to start cutting as not sure what to do and not to do.
without seeing a picture of yours it's hard to say, but in this picture below what I'm holding is the old, rusted tab that was replaced with the new welded-on one just behind it:
if your floor is not rotten you can replace(reweld) these tabs from below. if the floor's OK you'll save a lot of work by not messing with it. If your tank supports are permanently welded you are running into the problem with this setup: if you ever need to remove it, you can't.
just cut them out and weld on some new tabs with holes and bolts for future access/removal
Our bathroom is gutted and the rotted floor is out. Found my camera and have taken some photos. I will try and down load before Friday. We aren't taking our A/S, but we are going the the Branson Airstream Ralley Friday April 4. There is going to be about 18 trailers and a couple families staying in the lodge. We will have our AS back together by the October Ralley.
Anyway I will try and get the photos posted so you can help us. I think hubby is afraid to cut into the old stuff, for fear he can't get it back together. Maybe at the Ralley this weekend he can crawl under some trailers and see how theirs are put together.
Sorry didn't get the photos downloaded. I will let you know how our Branson rally went. You need to plan to come to the October Branson, MO rally. Louisiana is just a few states away.
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