ahh, a J-channel hinge...hmmm...not crazy about those but there must be a reason for them (there is: to keep the door from bopping you on the head ;-) and certainly no harder to rivet on than a piano hinge... but I could take the shortcut and simply hold the trailer upside down ;-)
I think I'm up to about 48 or 49 DIFFERENT KEYS for this trailer... I'll have to bar code them... I do have a great old-school locksmith in the hood who can probably reset them for just a couple different keys for cheap..
also: I've been using this "epmd" grey gasket material on some doors and it seems like pretty nice stuff, but not cheap ($7 for 10 feet). seals up good and is the right size. the aft battery compartment had a couple yards of river sand in the door channel before I changed the gasket...I think that's what caused the rear to droop a bit ;-) seriously, it was a SPARE TIRE mount that had been welded onto the bumper. if you are considering doing something like this: DON'T!!! put it under your tongue (and count backwards from one hundred..zzzzzzz)
We took our lock in and had all the outside compartments keyed to one key. The front door is different so we ended up with two keys. Better than a dozen.
We took our lock in and had all the outside compartments keyed to one key. The front door is different so we ended up with two keys. Better than a dozen.
I found some compartment locks at Harry's Ace Hardware, this was a few years ago. The locks were cheap. It was easier than dealing with worn locks and keys. I would think compartment locks would be easy to find on the web.
I got my cam locks at Vintage Trailer Supply, $6-ish, and they fit perfectly. The plus here is that you'll also be tempted to order Vulkem and a dozen other things in the same package for one shipping fee!
Seriously, the plus is that they will check the locks and make sure all of them are keyed the same.
- thanks Butch and Sundance for the lock info, man those numbered camlocks are so sweet I might have to spring for a set and just throw the dang keys away...
- got the wiring hooked back up and some of the plumbing...enough to start putting the floor in anyway...oh, and I went under and slapped some insulation on the belly and around the tankbox..just randomly putting pink foam board and Reflectix...whaddoo I know from insulation here anyway, it's usually like a hundred and twenty degrees in the shade...
-I think the real issue is to try and get the tank box sealed up as best you can since if'n you have a two inch gap somewhere(even if the rest is sealed) guess where all your beloved heat is gonna go when it gets real cold: right out of that two inch gap! .....
so I tested the hot water heater and it held pressure real nice-like...couldn't find any leaks so I POR'ed the rusty edges and slipped it back in with butyl tape all around...that stuff is like abc gum and you want to trim it off around the edges...its funky:
- I was out there havin' me a chaw and my sweet lil Judi came by and gave me a kiss so I made her do it again for the camera... our cranky old 14 year old four legged man wouldn't come outside so he din't get his pitcher took...special thanks to the signif-other-wife-partner-babymomma for lettin' me make such a gawdawful mess back there...one day I'll clean it up...
I decided to use this industrial type linoleum-lookin' vinyl tiles since they look almost exactly like the OEM tile and are incredibly cheap (like me) and come in nice retro colors...stuff called 'Azrock' by Tarkett...they use it in hospitals and stuff..supposed to last forever. I took Inland Andy's advice and laid it with the seams to match the splices in the subfloor cuz supposedly it'll show any cracks a lot less if they develop later...you put it on with a contact glue called Parabond. nice stuff, doesn't stick much but you gotta let it dry an hour or so before stick-down..
'so what's up with the flange stickin' there anyway?' you're wondering...here's the deal: the only flange I could find locally only had like a half-inch of threads (for the tank) so once I got that puppy threaded in the tank I'm terrified of backing it out since it might be REAL HARD to thread up again...so I backed it out just enough to slip the tile under then I'm gonna tighten it back up when the tile dries...have a swingin' weekend...lookout beaches...I'm gonna be landing soon....
Thanks Wabbiteer,
I got it done right this time and now I am just waiting for the bolts from Vintage. No movement and solid. I mitered the edges going under the cabin because it was too tight to get into place otherwise. Then I sledged the new pieces into place. I painted all ends and top and bottoms to seal.
I honestly would not have done this over if you had not interceded the project. Thank's for helping.
Sealing the end grain is first importance - sealing the faces is good in a general way but there is enough interference grinding on the faces while fitting that one should thin out the sealer and load up the grain over a couple of days. It would be the same teaspoon of water that never dries that ramps up the pressure treated metal rot or accelerates up softening the plywood.
Today I was thinking how good the floor looked and my work fitting it in so nicely. However I know there are a few of you guys more experienced than me out there who can predict a outcome based on the materials used. So I will take the hit and do it right. That means new exterior grade 3/4' decking.
After all, I am only talking about a 48'X21" piece of material here. Poly the end grain is also a great tip.
Thanks,
I just posted my photos and got all yours. I used painted floor decking. What is Nyloboard?
Fotochop, Have you done the black water trap already and just in the last day or so?
Hope I can move forward now myself. I need to repipe now. Any suggestions on the black pipe?
I just posted my photos and got all yours. I used painted floor decking. What is Nyloboard?
Fotochop, Have you done the black water trap already and just in the last day or so?
Hope I can move forward now myself. I need to repipe now. Any suggestions on the black pipe?
google nyloboard and you'll find a poly-composite-non-wood-sheet product that oughta last forever, only possible drawback being a bit more flexible than plywood but you can deal with that...kinda pricey though...
got all the black abs drain pipe back together (I had chopped it in a coupla places to make easier the floor insert and just glued the chops back up with nipples (sleeves..in the oilfield we called 'em 'nipples')...kinda tricky to get that tub drain back in with no floor access..use a lotta plumber's putty... also took me a while to figure out the tub drain has no nut, well, mine didn't, but the lav drain DOES have a nut (which is why I broke off the p-trap there way back in the beginning of this thread)...I guess the lav drain has a nut because it's not static & supported like the tub is and might sway while rolling down the hiway...but if that sucker ever has to come off again I will need to figure out how to get access from behind/beneath to get the dang nut off first...also: since the chrome lav drain piece is nutted on this means I will have to tighten the nut, THEN GLUE the abs drain pipe in its fitting AFTER....whew! man, those AS engineers sure knew how to make things difficult...I"m hoping somebody replies: 'lose the nut, you don't need it'...I must have a screw loose...;-)
not sure what your'e referring to as "black water trap"...it's just a toilet flange-screwed into the tank...the dump valve assembly has it's own "tee" where the gray water exits AFT of the dump valve...I changed my Thetford to an easier-to-find Valterra since my Thetford Tee was Toast and I didn't wanna get it repaired...
Hey Rick, I understand! I have to have the tub gel-coated first so putting it back in will be some time. I will google "Valterra" for a new dump valve and trade in the old one for brass scrap! Heavy sucker! I am not going to replace this latest floor repair, she's done. Where did you get the black abs pipe that small? (PLS)
Hey Rick, I understand! I have to have the tub gel-coated first so putting it back in will be some time. I will google "Valterra" for a new dump valve and trade in the old one for brass scrap! Heavy sucker! I am not going to replace this latest floor repair, she's done. Where did you get the black abs pipe that small? (PLS)
it's all 1.5 inch abs which should be available at any decent hardware store.. there's a recent thread by a guy who rebuilt his brass dump valve using a couple of o-rings from McMaster if you decide you want to keep it. I think Inland RV has a method of repairing the Thetford T's although I haven't seen anyone else say they could, if you're having dump tee problems..
...1.5 inch ABS which should be available at any decent hardware store...
In my state (and many others) it is prohibited from residential construction so it's not readily available at the traditional supply outlets... but they do have it at the RV parts places.
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