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Old 03-06-2008, 09:32 PM   #71
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Was your lead time on the tank order pretty fast? I think it is going to be a season two project, new pan, tank, etc. Thanks Frank for the great detail. Am I correct in the notion you installed the tank and pan from below? Its looking good! And we're learning a lot watching.
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Old 03-13-2008, 11:51 AM   #72
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Black Tank

Sorry I didn't get back sooner, I lost the thread. We talked to Al and it was much easier to talk to him on the phone. I know he will want you to measure the hole from the inside. Very inportant you get the inside and outside of the holes measured correctly. Our sensor looks like it is in the same place as yours. As we never had used the toilet not sure if our black tank sensor worked or not. I guess we will find out when we get it back to gether.


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Originally Posted by SIU Bound
CJ from Oklahoma

Thank you for the incaplastic link. I e-mailed them a picture of my tank with dimensions and they said they have it. My overlander airstream is a 1973. This is the comment he made to me. Does anybody have a suggestion on how I answer him. This has me a bit confused. I will post a picture of my tank so you all can see.

IF YOU STILL WANT TO ORDER IT, PLEASE INDICATE TYPE OF FITTING ( THREADED, SLIP,GROMMET OR SENSORS LOCATION) MAKE SURE YOU MEASURE I.D. NOT O.D.

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Brina
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Old 03-15-2008, 06:37 PM   #73
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Update 3/15/08

-made some progress, got the plastic bath parts (except the ceiling, which will be done in place) patched and painted...for the patching I used this new product from West Marine called G/Flex, which comes in a 20-buck kit:

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and bought a couple extra feet of 4" fiberglas fabric. mix 1 to 1 and glop it on. the great thing about this stuff is it really is more flexible than regular epox/fiberglas and that can only help in a twisting/turning airstream... here you can see what a patch looks like on the backside. this was one of the nastier cracks which you can see earlier in this thread..

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here's how it looks in front..not perfect by any means but way good enough for my needs and super strong...I filled in the front-side irregularities with Interlux Watertite Epoxy Filler, which is just truly amazing stuff. it is so strong and tough. I fixed the front door of my house with it (cracks that never seem to stay patched) and it's the first thing that has actually worked on this door, so I feel ok about using it here. I'm going to also use it to patch/level the seam in my now-split sub floor (which i had to do to get it put in) ..this is that part just aft of the toilet:

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I used two brushed-on coats of Interlux Brightside Polyurethane and it looks really nice and should be incredibly durable. I sanded the parts with 220 paper and cleaned with acetone. (the trick with brushing, if you don't already know this, is to always BRUSH BACK into what you just painted and raise the brush lightly to feather any strokes out... the only imperfection is from tiny micro dots of dust and/or bubbles and if anyone can recommend the best way to polish these out (Nuvite?) I might give it a shot, but they look nice as is...so I might not ;-)

here's the lav:

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as you'll notice some of the parts are super smooth and others, like the bathroom above-tub cabinet have more a pebbly surface which you can see above the tub:

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got the sub floor all cut out and put three coats of Aerowood-style "hybrid" poly on it (where you mix together all the random half-full cans of poly you have laying around...it works great!) and will post another update as soon as I have those puppies bolted in....
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Old 03-15-2008, 07:31 PM   #74
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looks good! Can't wait to see it back together.
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Old 03-19-2008, 06:56 AM   #75
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Your doing a great job. Hope my 1969 31' looks that good when we get done. Hubby has backed the AS onto the driveway, he has to grind off the support brackets that hold the belly pan for the black tank. He wants to put better supports as these look like nothing but rust and they sag. Hubby is talking about going from beam to beam instead of the way AS installed. Anyone have any inputs on redesigining the black tank support braces?

I have some repairs to do to my tub cornor and the surround behind the toilet. You have gave me some great ideas. Thanks fotoshop
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Old 03-19-2008, 08:23 AM   #76
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"Anyone have any inputs on redesigining the black tank support braces?"

well, if you can be sure that you will NEVER have to remove the blacktank I guess that might work OK. I just assume that everything will one day need maintenance/repair and try to prepare for it if possible. That's why the tank supports bolt in, for possible removal. I'm also replacing my bolts with stainless ones, which may have a bit more rust-free shelf life..
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Old 03-19-2008, 11:53 AM   #77
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Hubby is going to make the new braces removable, he thinks changing the directions of the brackets will give better support???????????? Oh yes I am sure somewhere down the line we may have to drop the black tank for some type of repair. BUT if it last another 39 years I will be long gone, it will be someone else problem.
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Old 03-21-2008, 05:38 PM   #78
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Update 3/21/08

nice weather down here means more progress on this monster...I mean SWEETHEART... got the subfloor bolted in and braced under the seams:

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in the shot above you'll notice I used a regular 3/4 ply brace under the fore portion but a slimmed-down 1/4 ply (left) under where the blacktank will ride. I noticed the tank is really close to the subfloor and I'm trying to get everything snug without ANYTHING putting pressure on the tank from above. I have determined this is a no-no and may have led to the tank cracking..

since my aft-support iron was in pretty decent shape I didn't bother adding the two "Pizzachop Wings" on the outer frame, although I'd think if your trailer doesn't have a viable aft angle like you can see in this photo you should add them for support. My angle had double holes near the frame so I used two bolts there...can't hurt. Then bent them as per original:

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in this next shot you can see the pre-poly'ed subfloor was split down the middle to install and then joined & leveled with Interlux marine epoxy and then Bondo:

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while I was back there it woulda been stupid not to brace the back ribs to the U-channel and tighten everything up. I bought a 3 dollar aluminum yard stick from Home Despot and cut off two six inch pieces since I've never seen a two foot ruler before ;-) drilled the pieces and shot 3/16" rivets in (I think)... nice to be solid as a rock back there again...it's probably been a coupla decades since it was...:

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today I put the first coat of white Poly on the still-in-place overhead bath pieces. I'm thinking of leaving the inside of those overhead cabinets unpainted as a little memento of how faded it once was (not because I'm too lazy to paint them....really). The existing doors are starting to delaminate and they just seem too dang heavy so I think I'm gonna make some new ones our of white plexiglas instead...

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I just LOVE white plex in a bath. it just seems to FIT in a clean kind of way. I'm a big fan of Carlos' Safari too and I noticed he used plex for some full length doors so I'm thinking I might go that route for the long vertical bath closet too...and while I'm at it for the sliding doors too. when I renovated my darkroom after the Big K I added a small bath/shower and fashioned a mini vanity out of an oak wall cabinet and sliding plex doors:

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pretty soon I'll be reinstalling the black tank and I'm currently trying to support the black tank with new foam board, in this shot you can see my carving attempt under the dump flange:

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next episode:...who knows!
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Old 03-22-2008, 08:29 AM   #79
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Photo:

I am right behind you. I just fit the template today, and I am still debating if I want to cut the replacement floor down the middle like you did. Or try to go in from the back with the whole piece of material. I am using the nyloboard and even though I am happy with it I have insecurities about using a brace after I cut it.

I really like the aluminum ruler idea. I need to check my supports to see if they are all intact. I will take pictures today.

I painted my bathroom, sink, counter top, and tub, but I am going to give it all a light sand and touch it up with a second coat.

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Old 03-22-2008, 09:59 AM   #80
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if you have access to something like a front end loader like Pizzachop you can use it to press down on the entire back frame to slip your un-cut floor in. I didn't have that kind of access so went with plywood and cut in half, which is quite solid. You could also use biscuit joints etc down the middle if necessary which would help.

second coat of poly on plastic parts is highly recommended..
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Old 03-24-2008, 09:44 PM   #81
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Pressure Treated floor replacement

Hey, I used 3/4" pressure treated plywood to replace the damaged floor.
I don't know if I have to bolt it in yet but the attached shows the progress since last week.
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Old 03-25-2008, 04:18 AM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paris
Hey, I used 3/4" pressure treated plywood to replace the damaged floor.
I don't know if I have to bolt it in yet but the attached shows the progress since last week.
paris,

I hate to tell you this since you did such great work, but the chemicals in pressure treated wood will eat right through aluminum over a rather short time. If you don't want to replace the patch you could put some sort of gasket between the base of the wall and the plywood before you bolt it down.
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Old 03-25-2008, 04:28 AM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fotochop
if you have access to something like a front end loader like Pizzachop you can use it to press down on the entire back frame to slip your un-cut floor in.
I took a cue from Pizzachop and rigged up a pull-down strap to accomplish the same thing.
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Old 03-25-2008, 05:50 AM   #84
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Foto:

When you put your floor in. I noticed you put it in using two pieces. How did you do your butt plate to hold the two together. The other question I have was how easy or hard was it getting those two pieces in. My template pieces did not want to slide in. I had to force them in.

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