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Old 02-15-2008, 03:53 PM   #43
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do you have the plastic-formed bath parts taken out? if so you'll notice the grey plumbing from the shower makes a circuitous route to join up with the sink, then they terminate just aft of the black dump valve. sending grey water to the black tank will fill up your black tank REALLY fast and doesn't seem advisable. a better solution is to get a dump CAP that has a male garden hose outlet. this will enable you to leave the dump valve CLOSED, hook a short garden hose to the cap (which stays on) and send the grey water to a 'blue boy' type portable wheeled tank, which you can dump at will.
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Old 02-16-2008, 04:15 PM   #44
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Sounds like the way to go, thanks.zz
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Old 03-03-2008, 03:54 PM   #45
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Update: 3/3/08

-been a while, made some progress...

-one of the best things about renovating your Airstream is just how EDUCATIONAL the whole experience is. that and how doing it yourself allows you to really take ownership of the vessel. you really get to know it and learn a lot about yourself and what kind of challenges you can meet.. for example, I haven't done any welding since college sculpture class..around '76 maybe?... and upon learning that prof welders have to charge you a couple hundred to come out (which I totally understand) I decided to give it a shot. my 'stream buddy Jim Clark loaned me his Lincoln 110v mig and lo and behold, I did it. here's a shot of the old rusted-off blacktank support tab and the pretty new POR'ed one I welded on:

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after salvaging some really nice 1/4" galvanized angle-iron (bleachers being torn down) I started fitting the new supports in (as opposed to just drilling holes first) and noticed that in the fit-up the black tank actually stood a bit higher than where the bottom edge of the new floor will sit. well, that would be a problem. so I had to go back and cut into the new angle iron supports (to lower them as much as possible) and drill the holes as high up as possible to drop the supports down a bit. here you can see where I first thought the hole would go (lower sharpie-mark, below the actual hole) and where it needed to actually be drilled to drop the tank down a bit:

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these will be secured with 3/8 galvanized bolts and self-locking nuts:

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here you can see how this lowered the tank level a quarter inch more:

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clever arrangement with the bolted-in supports allowing the black tank to be dropped out for servicing/maintenance... to get the tank to sit at the proper height I also took my mini-grinder and shaved down the streetside "risers" that are built into the blacktank styrofoam pad which the tank sits upon:

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the blacktank tray was a bit corroded but still servicable so I MarineCleaned it and sprayed it down with Metal Ready prior to coating with POR-15:

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next up I'll be getting the proper closet flange for the SeaLand toilet and using my luan floor templates to determine exactly where the toilet hole needs to be cut out of the floor....stay tuned...
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Old 03-03-2008, 03:59 PM   #46
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oh, and that last picture above shows the new outrigger cross-pieces I welded on (salvaged from the one viable former tank support angle iron) that the lower panel and bellypan are riveted into. I gotta get myself some credit for all that welding,ya?? (professional welders may cringe in horror, but I'm downright proud of meself! man, looking back over this thread its easy to forget just how NASTY it was under there! something about that glossy POR just makes it all better... ;-)
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Old 03-03-2008, 04:51 PM   #47
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Rick,

Nice job with the welder. I've found in many cases that it's cheaper to purchase the tool and develop the skill rather than pay a professional, and you'll have the tool and the skill when it's over. (There are some things worth paying for, though. Sanding drywall joints comes to mind.)
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Old 03-04-2008, 04:37 AM   #48
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Good job! It looks very neat.

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Old 03-04-2008, 09:37 AM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PizzaChop
...There are some things worth paying for, though. Sanding drywall joints comes to mind...
Yes, you do it once and prove you can do it [taking 5 times as long] and you never, ever have the temptation to do it again...

Rick, nice work on the welding. I'm about to buy the machine and teach myself. Maybe InsideOut and I can compare the learning experience!

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Old 03-04-2008, 10:26 AM   #50
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I gotta thank Jim Clark again since he not only loaned me the great little Lincoln 3200HD mig welder, but let me view a basic mig welding dvd that got me up to speed on mig vs. stick etc. In it the instructor keeps saying "watch the edges of your puddle"... good advice in more than one aspect of life it seems ;-) I'm stuck waiting to get yalls opinion on exactly WHERE the blacktank flange sits on/in/above the subfloor, so if'n you wanna chime in here:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f444...ing-40150.html

I'll probably ask a mod to move that question/ans over to this thread to add more info along this line... thanks!
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Old 03-04-2008, 11:54 AM   #51
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Thumbs up

Rick,
Thanks for the insight on what I have to look forward to . Maybe I missed it , but what thickness of plywood is necessary for replacement?
Great looking job and a terrific job on the documentation.
Loren
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Old 03-04-2008, 12:30 PM   #52
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Rick,
You are doing a great job. I have our bathroom gutted in our 69 31'. I have printed up all your notes. I am sure some of your problems will help my hubby get it all back together. Our black tank pan was totally rotted, we had to have a new one built ($45). We also had to order a new black tank as ours was cracked around the vent pipe ($260). Guess what the new tank is really black. We are puting in a new hotwater tank, as I don't want to have to ever ever take the bathroom apart again. I haven't bought our POR15 yet to do the beams after we sand all the rust off. Keep up the good work. We are having to wait until the weather gets better as we have to work outside. Thanks for all the great pictures and info.
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Old 03-04-2008, 01:05 PM   #53
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-Silverback: I think it may vary from year to year, but in my '69 the OEM plywood was 3/4" thick and I'm replacing with same (BC Exterior) after applying 3 coats of "hybrid" polyurethane (ala Aerowood, where you mix all the mis-matched cans of poly you have lying around and slap 'em on)..

-CJ: as I dis-mantled (and because my biz is photog) I shot digital photos oF EVERYTHING, even things I thought I might 'remember' later... and now I'm enjoying posting shots of the entire 'phase 2' (rebuilding instead of dismantling) as a way of giving back, passing it on, since I never would have tackled this proj without the previous threads of prior Metal Gurus..
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Old 03-04-2008, 04:00 PM   #54
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fotochop,
Thanks, ours is a '69 Overlander. So, it was really interesting to see your progress.
We have been to N.O. twice . That was before Katrina. Plan to get back some other time.
Was the only exterior metal removed , the pan?
Loren
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Old 03-04-2008, 04:59 PM   #55
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Flanges make me scared...

Ok, I'll try this again, since I posted this in a separate thread hoping "maybe someone will know this right off and I can get to work on it" but that little mini-thread must be a forum faux-pas and it's probably lost in cyberspace somewhere so I'll ask the question again in this WELL-ESTABLISHED thread..

here's my deal. my current black water tank has a flange that is extremely well attached sticking out of it. I believe this is part of the original toilet flange (toilet is a SeaLand model 910). here it is:

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I'm thinking maybe this needs to come OFF the tank and be replaced with something like a current plastic, non-rusting floor flange like the one I bought today, which fits the toilet perfectly (and has a nice foam gasket, not shown):

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Does that sound correct? If so, ugh. That flange on the tank is WELL STUCK to the tank. The new flange looks like it would fit inside the tank, with the old one removed. ??? If you wanna cut me some slack here,consider what a mess this whole thing was when I started on it:

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any and all opinions, no matter how harebrained, will be considered...
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Old 03-04-2008, 05:39 PM   #56
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Rick,

On my '67 the flange threaded into a fitting on the top of the tank. The plywood was sandwiched between the the flange and the tank. I am now using a new tank with a rubber grommet and a flange like the one in your picture. They make a special wrench to turn out the old flange in your picture. You might be able to rent or borrow one from a good plumbing supply store.
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