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Old 07-23-2008, 05:34 AM   #141
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1969 31' Sovereign
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Ours was cracked around the vent connection.
It appears that the support straps started sagging this caused the weight of the tank on the vent pipe. Then the black tank leaked when it got full and rotted out the bottom of the pan and pitted the alum belly. We put in a new tank from INCA the original people who built the same tank in 1969 they still have the mold. (The only thing we would have done different in our 69 was move the hole in the floor over a couple inches- the new toilet fits SNUG against the surround- I really would have liked to have had a inch behind the toilet lid. We used the old rotted wood for the pattern and may have cut the hole further back than it was.) The new black tank went in like a dream we gave them the measurements of the hole and it went in with no problem. James rerouted the plumbing of the tub so we don’t have that hole in the floor for the U shaped pipes that went under the floor and left a gaping hole in the floor for wasp and critters. We have also ordered a small gray tank to set in the floor of the closet fits next to the fender well if we are boon docking we can put the kitchen sink water in the gray tank. It will dump into the same pipe as the tub which will exit into the drain pipe same as the black tank. He installed its own shut off valve so the black tank can't accidentally flow the wrong way. James would have to explain and draw a diagram was to what he as done. I can tell you anything else we have done to the trailer but the plumbing or electrical.
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Old 07-23-2008, 08:54 AM   #142
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CJ of Okla View Post
We have also ordered a small gray tank to set in the floor of the closet fits next to the fender well if we are boon docking we can put the kitchen sink water in the gray tank. It will dump into the same pipe as the tub which will exit into the drain pipe same as the black tank. He installed its own shut off valve so the black tank can't accidentally flow the wrong way. James would have to explain and draw a diagram was to what he as done.
This sounds like a good alternative to a main gray tank. We do not do any boondocking at the present but this would be good for emergency stops. I had thought about putting one under the kitchen sink (I saw that in another post) but forgot about the closet space. Do you think you could get James to make a drawing of what he did or post a picture? I assume he elevated the drain from the sink so that it would dump into the top area of the gray tank. I had planned to just put it inline directly under the sink with a shut off on the outlet side for storing the gray water. Also what size tank did you use? I am considering this 11 gal. tank.
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Old 07-25-2008, 08:28 AM   #143
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Take a look at The Metal Company catalog (Arvada, next to Denver). They've got zillions of tanks. As I recall, an 11-gallon tank would be about $55 dollars from them. Their tank price is usually by capacity, so it's very straightforward.

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Old 09-29-2008, 09:49 AM   #144
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BeanDogs live !

Hey, I am back from San Diego. While out there I bought a new/used Coleman Airconditioner to go on our '63 GlobeT. I like the old look of the '63 and maybe the housing will fit over...we'll see.
Also we bought a new porcelin "Biffy" that this guy had ordered wrong for his RV.
So back to working the interior: first up, water heater again a decision has to be made... 6 or 10 gal. elec/propane w/pizo or just pizo with propane..Suburban is ok...any help with a final choice out there?
Going to look at a Bluebird Bus couch/bed and dinette set up at upholstery shop just a blocks from the Bluebird factory.
Also a member has a 'goucho' bed set up I will check into now..
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Old 10-12-2008, 11:49 AM   #145
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1963 Globetrotter Water Heater install

We are back in the race getting our '63 globetrotter up and going. I just got my water heater delivered "Suburban SW6DE" from Looking for Discounted RV Parts? - Adventure RV Parts ..... I bought it on eBay which is one of the ways they sell, $248.00 plus shipping. Anyway the metal work is tight and looks clean.I followed the advice of "Safari62". Today I am going to map water hook-up and prepare my list of parts needed. I favor copper so rather than the new plastic I will use brass and copper fittings. Our tub was just picked up and is off for a new coat of primer and gelcoat in off white like it was.
I was anxious to attach my photos here but my buttons in the tool bar are not working for me...
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Old 10-14-2008, 05:45 AM   #146
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I favored copper, too. Did all the little fittings for the twists and turns to get copper into a Bambi and a Caravel. Even made sure there were drains front and back so no matter the tilt of the floor, all the pipes drained. Worked fine, the system was easy to drain for the winter, but....

When you're out camping in cold weather, you will fret yourself to death wondering what the temperature is at the pipes back behind the cabinets and at the water inlet, etc. etc. So the Sovereign has Pex.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f443...ign-23313.html

Go with Pex. Use elbow fittings to get a nice tight installation and avoid the big loops of pipe. You'll like it if you try it.

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Old 01-02-2009, 11:58 PM   #147
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missing c channel?

[Dude, where's my c-channel?") but instead it looks bolted to a u-channel. Assuming this is not some wack-o renovation but just a year/model way they did it in '69...please correct if this is way wrong

"dude, where's my c-channel?" is exactly what i said in my 69 tradewind when i pulled out the front floor back to the first joist. c-channel across the very front only, no c-channel in the curve and no c-channel when it starts to straighten out again on the sides.

glad to hear it hear though reading some of the later posts on this thread make it clear as mud. my questions about this on another group have been met with a thunderous silence. i did see another post somewhere saying that the c-channels didn't start until the early 70s! that there was always the u channel and then the c channel was added (in addition to the u channel).

i'd love any feedback about the dude, where's my c channel question!

thanks.

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Old 01-03-2009, 09:02 AM   #148
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"C" channel / "U" channel, same, same, just depends on how you're looking at it.
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Old 01-03-2009, 09:05 AM   #149
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Can also be a "j" channel if one side is higher than the other, as on my 63. But they all serve the same basic purpose.
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Old 01-04-2009, 10:17 AM   #150
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c channel added in early 70s?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Aerowood View Post
"C" channel / "U" channel, same, same, just depends on how you're looking at it.
i hear ya saying that the c channel and u channel are the same thing depending on how you're looking at it. but is there one in some trailers and two in others? what i'm still trying to 'confirm' is this:

mostly what i've read is that there's this c channel that goes all around the inner wall of the trailer...that the plywood slips/slides into.....connects the walls above to the wall below....very much a part of structure...

but what i've seen evidence of in my 69 tradewind (pulling out floor in front section to just past the first joist...and at the door...so far), is c channel (where plywood slid in) only at door and on flat part of front. no c channel in front curves or on the straight bit on curb side (just in front and behind 2nd outrigger/1st joist). there may very well be a u channel just above where the plywood hits the wall but i can't see this because i haven't taken the inner panels off.

what i've read somewhere (once, on airforums) is that until sometime in the early 70s (i'd like to confirm the date if this is true), there was only a u channel (that was just above the plywood floor?). then in the early 70s sometime, the c channel was added just below the u channel.

i'm sleuthing this mystery. care to join?

much appreciation.

rivercaner
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Old 01-04-2009, 10:35 AM   #151
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A picture might help here. The "C" Channel is laying on its back, think of it like a stud wall made of sheet metal. The "bottom plate" sits on the plywood floor and the skin, and vertical ribs or "studs" screw into this, very much like a metal stud wall. The "U" channel is the same exact thing (a U looks like a C on its back so to speak).

These photos you can see the C or U channel on the floor with the other framing members tying into this. (It really isn't much more than a flat piece of sheet aluminum with 2 90 degree bends). The reason the plywood is so structural is because this channel ties the floor/frame and body together, without the plywood, there is virtually nothing holding the body and frame together.
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Old 01-04-2009, 10:52 AM   #152
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Excellent pictures of C channel and floor replacement on this thread. Jump to #38 for a quick look.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f411...d-27533-3.html
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