"Is there no replacement for the plastic trim stripes?"
Mine are in good shape, most folks spray paint them with Krylon but I kinda like the 'antique' look against the bright white so I'll probably leave them as is...would be easy to pull and paint 'em later though..
Man, you have the makings of a new thread here! The mods can probably get your shots over to a new one if you want 'em to...(but they definitely add value to this one) Nice work on the dump valve... you may have to open up that inside wall a bit to get to the window mech...any early 60's folks know about that?? (my '69 just has a simple exposed lever)
"Is there no replacement for the plastic trim stripes?"
Mine are in good shape, most folks spray paint them with Krylon but I kinda like the 'antique' look against the bright white so I'll probably leave them as is...would be easy to pull and paint 'em later though..
Man, you have the makings of a new thread here! The mods can probably get your shots over to a new one if you want 'em to...(but they definitely add value to this one) Nice work on the dump valve... you may have to open up that inside wall a bit to get to the window mech...any early 60's folks know about that?? (my '69 just has a simple exposed lever)
Good idea, I'd love to see Paris's resto on its own thread, it looks like it will be deserving of one.
As I've said before, those of us who don't yet have Airstreams of our own are addicted to your reno/resto threads-- they're like crack to us. So thanks for taking the time to document your efforts, and keep 'em coming.
Still working on the back end of the A/S. I POR15 the exposed frame, I had to use a paint brush because spray painting wasn't an option. Let me tell you I wore rubber gloves, I should have had my whole body in plastic wrap. I put drop cloths down to protect the pavement. Of course I managed to lay in the drips and got it in my white hair. I will be wearing this POR15 like a tatoo for many days to come. I took finger nail polish to get it out of my hair. We tried paint thinner, Turpentine, rubber cement remover, tar remover, you name it we tried to remove it from skin. I think I will have to ware long sleeves for a long time. Needless to say got the POR15 done and it dried great. Now hubby can get the New floor in, install the NEW hotwater tank, New gray tank, New Black tank and New holding Pan, New plumbing. Then I have to get the ABS plastic painted before I reinstall. Still a lot to do.
yes, I 'guessed' it would take me "4 weeks" to re-do my bath and it took me "4 months"...the rule of thumb for me now is to guesstimate a repair time in weeks then change that to months! don't lose faith, it can be really tough when you're deep in and it seems there is NO END in sight, but then some air buddies show up and first thing you know you're showing off your new bath! IT CAN Happen! Work demands have kept me away for a couple weeks now but all I have left (HA!) is belly replacement in rear and re-hook the propane lines before camping...postponing the axle replacement until we get a few beach trips in.. gotta re-up the pleasure before embarking on more pain...
hey rick, but just think of how many years you'll enjoy it after all that work. Axles, if you do the replacements through Andy, you'll be done in a couple hours, if you decide to pain the frame, and under an hour if you don't. took me longer to get the tools out and put em away than to change the axles.
Hey, Rick, is your Judi a cute little patch hound like my Caty? A rabbit hunter saw us walking down the street and wanted to buy her from me, called her a Red Regal Patch Hound. She's all excited and got the big head from the beagle winning the Westminster this year.
Anyway -- I keep your thread here on speed dial because I am working on the rear bath in my 68 Trade Wind.
How do you like your Harbor Freight tools? It's the only place I've found in Indy, so far, to actually sell a riveter air tool and metal shears.
As for the shears, they have a straight one and an angled one. Any preferences?
Question for those who have repaired their black tank , either by welding or scotch-weld . How did you clean the cracks for prep before repair?
I used a razor knife to cut a V-groove for those cracks where I used plastic rod to weld into the crack. For other damage where I used Scotch -weld to glue a small sheet onto the damaged area, I roughed up the surface with 80-grit sandpaper.
Ours is damaged, but doesn't leak and will get replacing this winter along with the sheetmetal pan. After weighing the options, with as many trips as we plan to take it, we wanted that last piece of the mechanical system to be as like new as possible. My luck is a crack repair will leak again when I'm least able to repair it. When I checked Inland had the tank in stock exact match for that year and the price wasn't shocking.
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