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Old 04-24-2011, 01:58 PM   #1
2 Rivet Member
1967 20' Globetrotter
1969 27' Overlander
sacramento , California
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 21
'69 Overlander frame repair

Have spent hours pouring over some the excellent & helpful posts about the daunting frame off task .Is it safe to assume after finding floor & frame rot from the front to the door that ,that the rest of the frame would be in similar condition.I'm gradually resigning my self to the fact I have to remove the belly pan to inspect the rest of the frame ,if so can I just un- rivet one side to try & peek at it .
I have the outriggers & have fabricated some steel to reinforce the part of the frame I currently have exposed but it sure would be sweet if I didnt have to peel back the floor any more.Thanks for any help on this matter .Ian

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Old 04-24-2011, 05:54 PM   #2
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1985 31' Excella
Fresno , Texas
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 307
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Have you thought about using an inspection scope. Drill a 5/8" hole and slide it in and look around.

Ryobi Tek4 Digital Inspection Scope - RP4205 at The Home Depot

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Old 04-25-2011, 07:00 AM   #3
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1967 20' Globetrotter
1969 27' Overlander
sacramento , California
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 21
did not think of that & i'm liking it,an excuse to buy another tool.That would save a huge amount of time.Thanks ,will keep you posted.
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Old 04-25-2011, 07:12 AM   #4
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1969 25' Tradewind
1971 18' Caravel
Berkeley Springs , West Virginia
Join Date: Jan 2005
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I had the same problem on my 69TW down both sides for the first four outriggers. The frame itself hadn't sustained much rust and was in good shape. I vote for drilling out some rivets and lowering the pan. You obviously know you have problems or did you just buy the outriggers as a conversation pieces?

Any removal of the belly pan requires a little help getting it back in place if you don't have any clecos. Now that's something I would invest a few dollars in if I were you. Here's a good source.

YouTube - ISI video series- How to Use Clecos

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Old 04-25-2011, 09:15 AM   #5
2 Rivet Member
1967 20' Globetrotter
1969 27' Overlander
sacramento , California
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 21
wow,i,m feeling better about this with every post,more tools I can buy ,& easier ways to get the job doneThankyou.I could of used those cleaco,s loads of times with all the fab jobs i,ve done in the past,great idea.Ian
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Old 04-25-2011, 10:27 AM   #6
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1966 26' Overlander
Woodstock , Georgia
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 8,079
if the floor is not soft in any other areas, you may be fine. the door is a common leak spot, as are any places under vents that may have leaked. My 66 had rot around the door, but only one outrigger was rusted. The other spots were under two vents where the sealant was not redone over the years the trailer sat unused. After resealing them, I have not seen a leak. Also the corning curved glass side windows had some leaks, but the fix I found here thanks to Inland RV Andy worked like a charm.
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Old 04-25-2011, 10:45 AM   #7
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1968 24' Tradewind
Oxford, , Mississippi
Join Date: May 2009
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My 68 TW had rust around the door but was sound. The rear end was where I had the most damage. I had to weld in a new rear cross member and tabs to hold the black tank.

If you don't have to take the belly off that will be good and a huge time saver. As you are finding out, everything takes a lot of time to fix.

Bruce & Rachel
68 Trade Wind
2001 Toyota Tundra
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