Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 01-06-2008, 01:33 PM   #71
Restorations done right
Commercial Member
 
Frank's Trailer Works's Avatar
 
1962 26' Overlander
1961 26' Overlander
Vintage Kin Owner
Currently Looking...
Baltimore , Maryland
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 5,547
Images: 2
I think a sign company could do that pretty easy
__________________

Frank's Trailer Works is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2008, 02:22 PM   #72
Rivet Master
 
Aerowood's Avatar

 
1971 21' Globetrotter
Arvada , Colorado
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 2,841
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aluminati
Can aluminum rib sections be made.

I want to put some extra supports in the rib section. but I dont know what gauge the ribs are...How can I find this out? I have a metals merchant down the block from where I am so I am pretty sure I can find what I need there.

What I was thinking about was doing the following.

getting the shape of the aluminum rib via story boad or scribing on some plywood to transfer the shape onto the plywood.

Then cutting a jig out of the plywood so that the jig is about 1.5 inches thick...then using clamps to clamp the aluminum to the jig to get the bend I need...does anyone think this would work?
Yes they can be made but I'm curious as to why. The rib sections in my GT are .063 thick. The method you described will work, but only annealed or soft aluminum will work, so then you need to heat-treat the aluminum to gain any structural strength. Another method would be to use a shrinker and stretcher using .063 6061-T6 extruded aluminum angles and then riveting them together. Here is a link to a shrinker and stretcher
Brown Tool - Cart: 963298
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	DSC01461.jpg
Views:	65
Size:	40.6 KB
ID:	52086  
__________________

__________________
Aerowood is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2008, 02:45 PM   #73
Restorations done right
Commercial Member
 
Frank's Trailer Works's Avatar
 
1962 26' Overlander
1961 26' Overlander
Vintage Kin Owner
Currently Looking...
Baltimore , Maryland
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 5,547
Images: 2
why do you need more ribs? They were not cut short in the back if that is what you are thinking. The entire trailer supports it's self. It is engineered to work as one whole unit the frame, the floor, and the shell all support each other.It is kind of like a chain... only as strong as it's weakest link. Do you need new ribs to cut an opening for food service? I think serving out the rear would be cool... will you serve beer too? I know Ann Arbor has some very liberal laws concerning intoxicants.
Frank's Trailer Works is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2008, 03:22 PM   #74
3 Rivet Member
 
1968 26' Overlander
Ann Arbor , Michigan
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 117
Images: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by 62overlander
why do you need more ribs? ... Do you need new ribs to cut an opening for food service? I think serving out the rear would be cool... will you serve beer too? I know Ann Arbor has some very liberal laws concerning intoxicants.
I need more ribs for support. I am going to cut some of the ribs to make a bigger service window and flip up service door. I have an aircraft guy here in Ann Arbor that explained a few ways how I can do this.

The ribs that I cut I must make a header...have not decided on what to make it out of yet...the extra ribs will act as jack studs. Then link them all toghether so that it becomes one unit again.

I either want to make a window that is curved like the body or like this...

With making a square window...it would be easier to install windows that can be found. The only issue I can see with this is making an eyebrow, rivet and seal it to cover the top lip so that wetness will not get under the skin. Then skinning the door with 2024t3 to make the door blend in. I am trying to keep the shape as close to the original as possible...but that may not be possible.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	concession 1.jpg
Views:	64
Size:	167.3 KB
ID:	52099   Click image for larger version

Name:	concesion2.jpg
Views:	67
Size:	163.4 KB
ID:	52100  

__________________
Aluminati is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2008, 03:40 PM   #75
3 Rivet Member
 
1968 26' Overlander
Ann Arbor , Michigan
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 117
Images: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by byamcaravanner
The Logo looks great... about what diameter are you looking for? An aluminum pie plate or a hub cap comes to mind???
I would say 24inches in diameter
__________________
Aluminati is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2008, 04:36 PM   #76
Rivet Master
 
byamcaravanner's Avatar
 
1967 28' Ambassador
1963 19' Globetrotter
1970 29' Ambassador
Waukesha , Wisconsin
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 1,180
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aluminati
The only issue I can see with this is making an eyebrow, rivet and seal it to cover the top lip so that wetness will not get under the skin.
For a ready made eyebrow go HERE and type "drip cap" into the search box at the top of the page. Many, many sizes to choose from.

Your trailer is going to look cool!
__________________
Steve & the crew
'70 Ambassador International Twin
'63 19' Globetrotter TAC WI-1
http://byamcaravanner.blogspot.com/
byamcaravanner is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2008, 04:38 PM   #77
Rivet Master
 
byamcaravanner's Avatar
 
1967 28' Ambassador
1963 19' Globetrotter
1970 29' Ambassador
Waukesha , Wisconsin
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 1,180
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aluminati
I would say 24inches in diameter
That's gotta be one big pie plate! LOL! I'll have to think on some alternatives.
__________________
Steve & the crew
'70 Ambassador International Twin
'63 19' Globetrotter TAC WI-1
http://byamcaravanner.blogspot.com/
byamcaravanner is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2008, 09:09 PM   #78
Rivet Master
 
1973 31' Sovereign
Portland , Oregon
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 1,245
Images: 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aluminati
Now for another question. When I took the front and back floor out I was unable to do it with alot of grace...i.e..the pieces are FUBAR! So..How do I get an accurate shape to cut the new floor?

Also..once I have the floor shape and ready to install it...is it better to cut the sheets in half to get the floor back in place then bolt it down through the u-chanel or try and leave it in one piece.
For getting the shape of the end floor panels right I made a template out of poster board that fit the end of the inside of the body. Just trim it until it fits right. I would suggest that you check to make sure the body is not shifted out of line with the frame before you make your pattern. I only made half a pattern at each end too by the way. I carefully marked where the centerline of the body/frame was and made a pattern for one half assuming that the curve was symetrical about the centerline. I then put the pattern down on my plywood and enlarged it by ~1-1/2". You can check the measurement increase that you need by sliding a scrap of plywood under the body edge and marking it. An easy way to enlarge the pattern on the plywood is to cut a small piece of wood or cardboard to the exatra amount and slide it along the pattern with a pencil or marking pen.

Regarding slicing the end panels in half you don't actually have to as long as the next sheet in line is out of the way. You will find that you can lay the full panel down a bit on the diagonal and rotate it into place just fine.

Regarding your header requirements at the opening it seems to me that you could just use aluminum angle or u-channel of appropriate size. Presumably you have some supplier in your area where you can get aluminum. Home Depot even carries some sizes and shapes.

Malcolm
__________________
Only he who attempts the ridiculous can achieve the impossble.
malconium is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2008, 06:42 AM   #79
Restorations done right
Commercial Member
 
Frank's Trailer Works's Avatar
 
1962 26' Overlander
1961 26' Overlander
Vintage Kin Owner
Currently Looking...
Baltimore , Maryland
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 5,547
Images: 2
just a slight word of caution... when I released the shell in the rear, it actually moved out further to the rear than it originally was. In this photo
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1161.jpg
Views:	101
Size:	153.2 KB
ID:	52216

you can see the bolt hole in the frame and the hole in the "C" (mine is a "J" not a "C") channel are about 1.5" away from each other. I am not too worried about getting it back, because I had most of the curve left on the street side floor and will be making new channel. Just a thing to take into account when making your template.
A trick I use to make templates for counter tops is to use strips of 5 mm luan about 24" long. I scribe them into the curve and hot melt glue them together as I go around the curve. The shorter length is easy to work with. You might need to go wider in the curve to get more radius. I use a cheap compass to follow the curve, cut close to the line with a jig saw, and then use a belt sander to sand up to the line. I use to use cardboard, but found it is too flimsy and if the humidity is high it changes size. The luan is cheap and stays very rigid. By the time you get your templates done you will be good at it. I have used this method to install some very complex countertops and have had great success. Just make sure you are making a template to the right curve.
Frank's Trailer Works is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2008, 08:11 AM   #80
Rivet Master
 
fotochop's Avatar
 
1969 23' Safari
New Orleans , Louisiana
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 699
Images: 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aluminati
I either want to make a window that is curved like the body or like this...

With making a square window...it would be easier to install windows that can be found. The only issue I can see with this is making an eyebrow, rivet and seal it to cover the top lip so that wetness will not get under the skin. Then skinning the door with 2024t3 to make the door blend in. I am trying to keep the shape as close to the original as possible...but that may not be possible.
good luck on the rib-making. will you also be doing some BBQ ribs when finished? and where's that "Cajun Deli" located? I would love to check this out one day. not to nitpick, but down here we'd say "La Boucherie" instead off "Le", even though Le might actually be correct for all I know! sure is a heckuva nice trailer...

will you be opening a Cajun deli of your own? need any guest chefs?

best,
fotochop is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2008, 11:23 AM   #81
3 Rivet Member
 
1968 26' Overlander
Ann Arbor , Michigan
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 117
Images: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by fotochop
good luck on the rib-making. will you also be doing some BBQ ribs when finished? and where's that "Cajun Deli" located? I would love to check this out one day. not to nitpick, but down here we'd say "La Boucherie" instead off "Le", even though Le might actually be correct for all I know! sure is a heckuva nice trailer...

will you be opening a Cajun deli of your own? need any guest chefs?

best,
I wont be making ribs...I serve classic "old-school" hamburgers, Milkshakes/malts and Fries
__________________
Aluminati is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2008, 11:31 AM   #82
3 Rivet Member
 
1968 26' Overlander
Ann Arbor , Michigan
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 117
Images: 11
Burgers

This is a picture of the burger that I serve. And yes...the food that is ordered looks like the one in the picture.

Sorry...the picture is not a scratch and sniff
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	gen%2Bpics%2B003.jpg
Views:	69
Size:	172.2 KB
ID:	52225  
__________________
Aluminati is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2008, 12:54 PM   #83
3 Rivet Member
 
1968 26' Overlander
Ann Arbor , Michigan
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 117
Images: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by 62overlander
just a slight word of caution... when I released the shell in the rear, it actually moved out further to the rear than it originally was. In this photo
Attachment 52216
Well..I am only going to take the blots out from the back of the wheel well going toward the back. I figured if I keep some of it locked down it wont shift much. Once I have the new floor in and bolted down, I will take out the rest and replace it. Big fear of the whole shell just slipping off to the side.
__________________
Aluminati is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2008, 01:17 PM   #84
Rivet Master
 
1973 31' Sovereign
Portland , Oregon
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 1,245
Images: 22
One thing that you can do to help keep the shell from sliding sideways is to use a couple of ratchet straps. Consider attaching one end to a location at the base of the body that is still bolted down with the other end at a diagonal location that you want to hold in place. It is also pretty easy to use a 2x4 or two cross wise to maintain the space between the sides. Take a look at my photo area for several photos of some simple bracing that I used during my shell on floor replacement efforts. You will also see that I used some vertical pieces to keep the body from dropping lower when I removed the floor. It is very easy to jack the body up using this bracing too if it has dropped too much in some area. You can also use a long lever to jack up the body from the side when you are inserting floor panels. The most descriptive photo is included here.

Malcolm
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	remove_floor_06.jpg
Views:	58
Size:	34.9 KB
ID:	52227  
__________________

__________________
Only he who attempts the ridiculous can achieve the impossble.
malconium is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
A 1963 Overlander named Moonraker! reinergirl 1960 - 1964 Overlander 702 08-28-2017 12:36 PM
Help! My '63 overlander need plumbing, hot water tank, and water supply tank! aprilr 1960 - 1964 Overlander 9 11-30-2011 09:52 AM
Catarina 1963 Airstream Overlander :: 1963 Airstream Overlander utee94 Airstream Registry Discussions 0 08-19-2011 09:31 AM
Need Door for 1961 Overlander BentMetal 1960 - 1964 Overlander 9 07-28-2011 05:36 PM
Need Refrigerator Compartment Door for 1972 Overlander jazz1945 Exterior Storage Compartments & Access Doors 1 05-30-2011 03:50 PM


Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 01:02 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.