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Old 01-05-2008, 06:32 AM   #57
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I do not see how it will possible to bolt the new floor down with out removing the belly pan. You will have to reach blindly 4' to put a nut on the elevator bolt, and then tighten it down... good luck with that. A very easy way to drop the pan is to cut the rivets. I used a stiff utility knife. After about 10 of them, you will be cutting them in one sharp whack and it will go very quickly. Drop the pan... yes more work, but easier for you in the long run.
On my blog you will see some paint products made by PPG that
I used for the bathroom. The primer was very impressive in how it went on and then how it could be sanded very smooth. I do not know what the local laws are about wall surfaces in a kitchen, but here they have rules about it. I did a bar for a restaurant a few years back, and the inspectors made the restaurant cover some of the walls in a plastic panel that had a texture to it. I am not sure what it was called, but bacteria cannot grow on it. You might have an issue with aluminum being porous. I think this is why hot dog carts are made out of stainless steel. I would suggest you contact the health inspector before you go and paint too much aluminum so that you do not go too far for nothing. It might be easier to make new panels than spend hours stripping them. I highly recommend that you make friends with your health inspector for he is going to give the yes or no to your business.
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Old 01-05-2008, 06:42 AM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by byamcaravanner
I can't say for sure, but I almost sure the front end and the back end are not the same floor profile.

You can push and pull the shell as needed to get it into the right place when you bolt it down. Just take some measurements and make sure it is equally space relative to the frame rails.

I would pull at least the center belly pan pieces. You will not need to have those back in to open the cafe. That can be another project for those moonlit summer nights. It will be much easier to get the new floor in with the belly pan out.

How much of the floor do you have out? I would suggest not removing ALL the floor at the same time.

Sounds like you are moving along... it's normal for things to feel as though they are a bit scary. Just keep moving an soon enough you will be on the track and feeling better.
Well its about 7:36 in the am...going to HD and going to pull the rest of the belly pan...not looking forward to this because of the cold...but its gotta be done. Sugar, Honey, Ice, Tea!!!


I have the first two sections out of the back and the first section out of the front of the trailer. I figured that I may want to put some of thoes back in before I take anything else out.
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Old 01-05-2008, 12:11 PM   #59
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Belly Pan

Well...I didn't want to do it...I gave myself 1001 reasons not to...but thanks to the prodding...I wont say by whome... I will just look at their name and whistel ...L@@king at (byamcaravanner ) . I was able to get this done today.

It was not as bad as I thought it would be after I really looked at it. I just need to take the street side out now. had to stop...the boss (wife) needed the car. The outside of the trailer does not look nice...but as Byamcaravanner said...I can button it back up when the floor is in. I did get some plywood today.

Now for another question. When I took the front and back floor out I was unable to do it with alot of grace...i.e..the pieces are FUBAR! So..How do I get an accurate shape to cut the new floor?

Also..once I have the floor shape and ready to install it...is it better to cut the sheets in half to get the floor back in place then bolt it down through the u-chanel or try and leave it in one piece.
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Old 01-05-2008, 05:17 PM   #60
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New subfloor protection

Would it be a good idea to protect the new floor with that west system epoxy over the entire floor?

By the front door that is not covered by aluminum skin...there are two spots by the steps that are rusted through...How is this repaired.
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Old 01-05-2008, 06:20 PM   #61
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sounds like you are getting the opportunity to learn to weld next.
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Old 01-05-2008, 07:10 PM   #62
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sounds like you are getting the opportunity to learn to weld next.
I purchased a new Hobart Mig with gas this spring and have taught myself to weld already. It can weld Aluminum (love welding aluminum) Stainless and carbon steel up toto 1/4 inch steel

I just dont know if this is part of the swing down steps or how to repair it...got a picture of my baby...wanna see it

It is the Hobart 140
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Old 01-06-2008, 05:02 AM   #63
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I looked into buy a welder too. The Hobart 140 was highly recommended to me. I also looked at the Lincoln version. I ended up borrowing one to use instead of spending the money. There are so many things needed, I just could not justify it at this point.
Taking down the belly pan sure does give you a clear shot of what your up against. It will definitely make it easier to put it back together later. Any big surprises? Can you add some pictures of your other baby?
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Old 01-06-2008, 10:08 AM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aluminati
I just dont know if this is part of the swing down steps or how to repair it...
Can you post a picture of what needs to be repaired?

Mine needs some work too. The "slide" slot is enlarged at the notch tha seats the pin when the steps are open. The problem is only on one side so the step drops about an 1/8 on one side when you step on it. I'd just like to firm it up a bit. I'll be addressing that in phase two of my floor replacement.

Your welder will be the perfect tool for working with the Airstream frame.
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Old 01-06-2008, 11:01 AM   #65
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Feeling of acomplishment

The step is in great shape...not rusted at all. If it can hold 250lbs with me moving up and down on it...it is solid. It is just on the left and right hand side of the step. It looks like small pieces of sheet metal that I will need to weld over what is there.

I really feel like I have acomplished alot this weekend. The entire belly pan is out. I dont think I will need to take of the bananna strips off the front. They dont have many dings in them.

I do have to take off the back corner pieces in that somewhat triangled area. I also have to remove the streetside rear band to get at the blind rivets to drop that little section. I am just worried that it is going to be a bear getting it back in.

Thanks again to everyone and I will keep updating the progress.


P.S. If I use that West epoxy over all the plywood...that should make it pretty water proof correct.

What I wanted to do is to fit the pieces...take them out...put the epoxy on, let it cure then put the pices back. This way the floor is protected on all sides. I only want to do this once so I want to do a good job on it.

I have not taken all the floor out, I want to put some floor back in before I do that...with that said...should I try to keep the back area in one piece or cut it down the middle, and clam shell it in?
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Old 01-06-2008, 11:07 AM   #66
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I would save the epoxy money and buy better plywood. If you buy marine grade it will set you back alot.
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Old 01-06-2008, 11:09 AM   #67
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Aluminum chanel.

Can aluminum rib sections be made.

I want to put some extra supports in the rib section. but I dont know what gauge the ribs are...How can I find this out? I have a metals merchant down the block from where I am so I am pretty sure I can find what I need there.

What I was thinking about was doing the following.

getting the shape of the aluminum rib via story boad or scribing on some plywood to transfer the shape onto the plywood.

Then cutting a jig out of the plywood so that the jig is about 1.5 inches thick...then using clamps to clamp the aluminum to the jig to get the bend I need...does anyone think this would work?
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Old 01-06-2008, 12:03 PM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aluminati
...should I try to keep the back area in one piece or cut it down the middle, and clam shell it in?
Since you have not removed the banana wraps, I would split it down the middle and do the clam shell.

I emailed a friend of mine that I think may have some extra ribs. His house is between yours and mine, so If he has some, I could bring them along when I come for the bath parts. Keep your fingers crossed.

As far as the step, the pieces you are talking about are rolled light gauge steel that are painted silver to match the aluminum. If you can get a couple of pieces of galvanized 20ga sheet you could probably bend them with a rubber mallet around something cylindical... like a pipe bollard (those posts in a parking lot that stop cars from hitting the building)
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Old 01-06-2008, 12:48 PM   #69
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Crazy request.

I am looking to have something like this made because I dont know how to do it myself. Unless I find something like an old clock casing.

Does anyone know how this would be done.?

Pardon my photoshop skills. I saw this on a picture on the side of an Airstream and thought that would be a good idea.

I could back light it myself and seal it so no water gets in.

Logo created by yours truly...I have a bunch of old fonts desktop publishing.
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Old 01-06-2008, 01:00 PM   #70
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The Logo looks great... about what diameter are you looking for? An aluminum pie plate or a hub cap comes to mind???

I sent you an email, Tedd says he has the extra ribs you are looking for. I'll plan on bringing them along. (thanks! Tedd!)

Sounds like we'll all have to meet for a Number 9 hamburger some time down the road... on me.
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