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Old 12-30-2007, 09:14 AM   #43
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1968 26' Overlander
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End caps

This means that I should take the end caps off the trailer...correct.
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Old 12-30-2007, 10:33 AM   #44
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Leaks?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Aluminati
This means that I should take the end caps off the trailer...correct.
Before pulling the end caps.....have you tried sealing from the outside?

R
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Old 12-30-2007, 02:02 PM   #45
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I have not tried to seal from the outside. I thought it was too cold to do so. This is why I thought sealing from the inside with a kerosene heater would be better..with the heat inside an all...but then again...the cold form the ouside may keep the skin cold while trying to seal the inside.
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Old 12-30-2007, 02:32 PM   #46
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Some thoughts about the caulking, etc.

Did I understand you to say that your AS is under cover now? When are you shooting for having it ready to roll? Will there be warmer weather available to you before that time? Maybe a combination of repairing what needs to be repaired, doing some caulking from the inside and finishing up on the outside when the weather gets warmer would work. Also - if you are under cover is that a chance that you could hang plastic curtains around the unit and heat things up outside so you could caulk from the outside?

Regarding re-installing the ceiling panels you either need to think in terms of getting helpers to hold things in place while you rivit things or you need to have some sort of supports that will hold the skin. I don't know if your skins are the same arrangement as mine but if they are the tips I posted in the following thread may help.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f46/...ins-30665.html

Malcolm
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Old 12-30-2007, 05:53 PM   #47
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malconium said: "Did I understand you to say that your AS is under cover now?"

Response
Yes...it is under an overhang out of the elements. I am in Michigan so right now it is snow and rain season so I wanted not to have that issue of it leaking while I am working on it.

Malconium said: "When are you shooting for having it ready to roll?"

Response
I am shooting at opening up for business at the end of March beginning of April...if all goes well.

Malconium sez:
"Will there be warmer weather available to you before that time?"

Response....Nope!

Malconim sez:
"Maybe a combination of repairing what needs to be repaired, doing some caulking from the inside and finishing up on the outside when the weather gets warmer would work. Also - if you are under cover is that a chance that you could hang plastic curtains around the unit and heat things up outside so you could caulk from the outside?"

Response:
I am doing the major repairs now. I cant hang up curtains because it is a place of business.

I will use the tips you gave me on hanging the panels as well as getting some extra hands that I have available.
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Old 12-30-2007, 06:02 PM   #48
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Floor progress

I took out the front section of the floor today...it took about three hrs. One hr of work and the rest jibber jabber with a buddy I had helping. I seem to get more work done when I am by myself .

I did notice that when I took the bottom panels off in the front of the trailer. I removed the insulation and there were signs of where the water was comming from.

I had a 500 watt light on the inside of the trailer but when I went outside...I was able to see the light comming from places that there should not be light.

The antena hook up, the fresh water outlet "around it where the caulking was, a missing rivet as well as some other places. I really dont want to take the caps off but I may not have a choice...the leak tracks were comming from up under the cap.

I also have another question. I have a tandam axle trailer.

Does anyone know what the weight limit is for putting equipment at the back of the trailer?

Are tandams more forgiving as far as weight distribution than single axles?
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Old 12-31-2007, 12:38 PM   #49
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End caps not too hard to deal with...

I don't know how your end caps may differ from the ones in my 1973 unit but mine were not really hard to deal with getting out or putting back in. They are not very heavy. As I recall I removed them by myself and had just one helper when I put them back in. Once you get a few rivits in place you are home free with putting them back in. Also, I did notice leaks along some of the seams in the upper rear panels that I would not have been able to see without taking the end caps out.

Malcolm
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Old 01-01-2008, 09:29 AM   #50
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Happy New Year everyone!

Well...I think we got about 6 inches of the white stuff.
This is will be the place of business. I also have it parked here to work on it...so I am doing the work with eyes looking on. Everyone is asking me when I am going to be open...I tell them the plan is for the beginning of April...so...I have to get to work.
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Old 01-01-2008, 11:42 AM   #51
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Hey!!! nice to see some pictures.

Based on the fact that the trailer will be sheltered and you are on a tight schedule, forget about the leaks for now. This is no weather to be trying to climb around on top of the trailer and sealing from the inside is only temporary. For now, repair any obvious leaks that you can get access to and save the others for when the weather gets nice. You can work on the leaks "after hours" ...you know... by moon light. :-)

Just concentrate on getting that floor done. Until that is done you will have to wait on getting going on seting up your equipment.

Keep at it!
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Old 01-04-2008, 03:21 PM   #52
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Interior Aluminum skin

Does anyone know what the gauge thickness is for the interior aluminum skin.

Also...Can the vinyl clad aluminum be painted.

Thanks
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Old 01-04-2008, 05:05 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aluminati
Does anyone know what the gauge thickness is for the interior aluminum skin.

Also...Can the vinyl clad aluminum be painted.

Thanks
It's .032 you can find it at AirParts Inc.

Yes, the vinyl can be painted... mine is.
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Old 01-04-2008, 08:22 PM   #54
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I have also painted mine. I cleaned the surface thoroughly - actually I did that when the skins were out. I then started with a shelac based primer - I used BIN but Kilz is also a good choice. Finished up with a couple of coats of a high quality interior satin house paint. The only thing I might have done differently was to use a glossier finish coat. It looks fine with the satin but maybe it would look better with glossy.

Depending on wall condition you might also be able to get away with a thorough cleaning and a couple coats of Fantastic clear floor coating. I have read that some people in the forums have had good luck with a bleach mix to whiten the walls.

Malcolm
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Old 01-04-2008, 08:41 PM   #55
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Skins Game

While the interior skins are out I was thinking about cleaning and painting them. I was going to strip them but it seem like more work than it is worth.

I looked in Home Depot for the Jasco premium paint and epoxy stripper/remover but they only had the glue remover.

I will need to be food grade...so the walls would have to be easily cleanable.
Excuse my spelling 151 will do that to you.

Also...tonight I have made the template for the back area floor.
Question: from what I can see of the 68 overlander...the back shape should be the same as the front correct?...I took the front board out as well.

A few things are freaking me out.

1. in the back area the u chanel is not directly over the outrigger....
Can I use one of the fabric rachet clamps to pull it back in over the outrigger?

2. When I measured the gap between the frame and the u chanel...it is less than 3/4 inch. The boards that I took out are 3/4 inch.

3. I really dont want to drop the belly that belly pan...all of thoes rivets being drilled out . Then again...if I use the 3 inch strip method all around the edges that seem like it is going to be a big pain in the tail feathers to get the bolt in around the front and back areas.

I am afraid that the whole shell will just fall off the trailer itself.

Even if I took out the center of the belly pan which leaves about a foot on each side...it will be a bear to get to the edge of the u chanel
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Old 01-04-2008, 09:39 PM   #56
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I can't say for sure, but I almost sure the front end and the back end are not the same floor profile.

You can push and pull the shell as needed to get it into the right place when you bolt it down. Just take some measurements and make sure it is equally space relative to the frame rails.

I would pull at least the center belly pan pieces. You will not need to have those back in to open the cafe. That can be another project for those moonlit summer nights. It will be much easier to get the new floor in with the belly pan out.

How much of the floor do you have out? I would suggest not removing ALL the floor at the same time.

Sounds like you are moving along... it's normal for things to feel as though they are a bit scary. Just keep moving an soon enough you will be on the track and feeling better.
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