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Old 04-27-2013, 07:38 AM   #1
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1968 20' Globetrotter
1993 32' Excella
Jax , Florida
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 72
'68 Globe trotter rehab-frame repair

I am just starting the rehab (shell on for sure! don't tempt me)of this AS for my parents to use, it is a '19 globe trotter which is gutted, it had the rear bath with one blackwater tank, I may go with 2 small tanks in the same location. Mostly used with sewer hook ups etc.
I have removed the floor from the seam by the entry door back, i want to leave the front floor in to preserve at least those shell connections since I am doing a shell on job and that part of the floor is in good shape.
The frame is in good condition except for the back couple of feet and a couple of outrigger ends.
My plan is to replace the frame starting from the last back crossmember.
I am having some 10 gauge steel(a gauge thicker) formed like the original frame section, and I am going to extend a new lower channel piece from the axle plate to the back with some plating to hopefully help with any rear end sag? (instead of just below the tanks)

My questions are:
==Does this sound like a good plan for the frame strengthening?
--Will a stronger rear frame stress the front too much? -I may be able to plate the frame in a couple of places from the inside(in front of the axles)

I build hot rod frames and trucks from scratch so the fab/welding is not a problem. I will be posting some pics. thanks
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Old 04-27-2013, 07:56 AM   #2
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1968 24' Tradewind
Oxford, , Mississippi
Join Date: May 2009
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Can't comment on the effect on the front part of the trailer but I can on the black tank ideas. I would suggest you keep the current size black tank. My 68 has about a 16 gallon capacity. Many state parks were we stay do not have full hook up and after about 4 days we need do dump it. I would love a larger capacity tank not less. Since you have the floor out from the axles back, Vintage Trailer supply has grey tanks made specifically to fit between the frame rails. They will put the fittings on the tanks where ever you like. By not changing the black water plumbing you will save a lot of time and fabrication. We have found that we fill the blue-boy with grey water much faster than the black tank when we camp without full hookup so a good size grey tank would be much enjoyed feature on a 68. Also, as I get older, lifting a full 18 gallon portable tank into the truck is no fun (a lot of campgrounds don't have close by grey water dumps).
Hope this helps.

Good luck.
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Old 04-27-2013, 08:07 AM   #3
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1968 20' Globetrotter
1993 32' Excella
Jax , Florida
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 72
Yes i would like the tanks to be as large as possible, but I know I shouldn't go to big because of weight issues etc.
I hope to get some comments on the frame ideas too.
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Old 04-27-2013, 09:14 AM   #4
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1968 20' Globetrotter
1993 32' Excella
Jax , Florida
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 72
I will have 9 inches depth from axle back to add tanks, after I add lower channel.
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Old 05-01-2013, 06:10 AM   #5
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1968 20' Globetrotter
1993 32' Excella
Jax , Florida
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 72
I've added some pics. After 2 days of online searching for the perfect size tanks, I finally ordered 2 abs holding tanks 54x22x9, from RVplus. I found a pdf with all of the sizes of abs tanks made by Ameri-Kart. I will post the list.
I also got my pieces of channel back from the metal shop that match the original frame metal profile, so I can make some outriggers and repair the rear of the frame.
Next I will be on the search for the right size shower pan.
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Old 05-16-2013, 12:24 PM   #6
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1968 20' Globetrotter
1993 32' Excella
Jax , Florida
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 72
After a week straight of cutting and welding, finally a little painting and I will be ready for plywood. Any tips?
Should I coat the edges of the plywood before I install them-and with what?
Should I cut the plywood ever so slightly smaller since I am squeezing it in with the shell on? I want to use full sheets.
Any other tips? wires to run etc.?

I made some outriggers and step guides- What held the step up while traveling?
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Old 05-16-2013, 12:29 PM   #7
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1968 20' Globetrotter
1993 32' Excella
Jax , Florida
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 72
tanks are in and a place for the drains to exit. I boxed 20" of the frame to help with sag.
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Old 05-16-2013, 12:38 PM   #8
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1968 20' Globetrotter
1993 32' Excella
Jax , Florida
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 72
Funny I re-read my first post, I said I might replace a few outriggers and a few feet of frame.........I ended up with 15 outriggers and 4 feet of frame!

Should I coat that plywood edge?- there is a philosphy/debate in wooden boat building about wood drying/lasting longer un-coated?? I see people going both ways.
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Old 05-16-2013, 12:53 PM   #9
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1972 31' Sovereign
Lexington , Minnesota
Join Date: Feb 2009
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We coated with primer prior to installation, top, bottom and edges. We cut 4 inches off the end of each sheet (width of trailer) and used the excess as our gussets under the sheets for added strength (theres a spot on our trailer for the gussets to rest in the frame). Water will get into your belly pan as you travel on wet days (it's not designed to be waterproof), so we chose to coat.
Our steps were bent when we got the trailer, we ended up replacing them. It cost almost as much for parts to fix them as it did to replace. They are held up by a catch on the stairs when you fold them up.
Good luck!

Kay
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