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Old 03-24-2017, 12:04 AM   #1
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Reno , Nevada
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 28
'64 Tradewind Full Monty Underway...

Hello! My husband and I are in the process of renovating our 1964 (was back and forth on the year for a little while, but now am fairly certain it's a '64) Tradewind. We are going for a full monty and got the shell off and are getting ready to sand blast the frame this weekend. Now that we are in the middle of things (and slightly terrified), I would love to get some input/feedback on our next steps. We are planning on doing things in the following order:

1) Sand blast the frame
2) Replace 2 outriggers that are rusted through in places
3) Weld brackets to hold gray water tanks on to frame
4) Paint the frame
5) Rebuild the bellypan and replace c-channel
6) Insulate
7) New subfloor
8) Reattach to shell

I have a couple of questions:

1) Does any wiring need to go in the belly pan? We don't think so based on our plans, but I am just wondering if we are missing anything...

2) We are planning on getting two 16 gal gray water tanks to fit in the frame, has anybody built a connection between them? Any tips/advice? We are thinking that we may need to cut out a part of the frame to do it, but not sure. Do we need to do something that is a little flexible to account for movement/flex of the trailer in transit?

3) Thoughts on best insulation?
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Old 03-24-2017, 05:40 AM   #2
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1977 31' Sovereign
Vintage Kin Owner
Vintage Kin Owner
Sunset Valley , Texas
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Hey there,

Sometimes the brake wires will run in the belly pan but I'd prefer to have them out running along the propane line.

For the tank installation, you might want to listen to episode 266 of the Vintage Airstream Podcast. Some good advice there.

Good luck!
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Old 03-24-2017, 07:22 AM   #3
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1966 22' Safari
1955 22' Flying Cloud
Fredericksburg , Texas
Join Date: May 2015
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We have completed our gray water tank mock-up on our 55 FC chassis. We used two 16 gallon tanks from VTS. They are 3 7/8" in height. I added 4-1/8" straps and bolted to the bottom of the cross members. This way I could remove the tanks from the belly pan side if ever needed. I placed one tank forward of the axle and one aft. I drilled holes through the cross members to accommodate the PVC. I reinforced the holes with a strap above the hole. Since the PVC is rigid, I added Fernco fittings so all could flex without cracking. We used a macerator pump and was able to drain the tanks in about three minutes. I added one 1 1/2" hole to the bottom of the aft tank that will have a cleanout fitting. We found that the macerator sucked less air if the drain was located on the bottom of the aft tank and looped down against the bottom of the belly pan (with the cleanout fitting), then ninety back up into the frame. We covered the tanks with reflectix. All pictures will be on our thread "Tale of a 55 FC Whale Tale Reno" when we have time to update.


If you have any questions, let me know...
Good luck!
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Old 03-25-2017, 11:02 PM   #4
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Reno , Nevada
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Iansk- Thanks for the recommendation! The podcast has been really helpful!

Bubba- We are planning on using the same tanks from VTS. Those are some great pics. The fernco fitting sounds like the way to go. We have holes in our crossmembers (I included a picture), but I think we may have to cut into our frame as well if we want the connection between the tanks near the bottom rather than in the middle- not sure if it would matter. We are a little stumped on getting appropriate slope to drain into the gray water tanks... Do you run your plumbing down in the frame or above the floor/frame?
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Old 03-26-2017, 05:15 AM   #5
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1967 17' Caravel
Oak Creek , Colorado
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You asked about wiring in the belly. In my 67 the umbilical (7 way) runs the length of the trailer inside the pan. It was strung thru the crossmembers via a grommeted holes . This is how I replaced it.
I put in a Junction box near where the original ball of wires was up front. Just made things neater and cleaner.
Good luck with your labor of love!
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Old 03-26-2017, 08:07 AM   #6
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1966 22' Safari
1955 22' Flying Cloud
Fredericksburg , Texas
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We had VTS place the drain fittings as close to the bottom of the tank as possible. This puts the flow line right at the bottom. Our appliances will be within the cabinets and enter the tank on a fitting on the top corner of the forward tank. So, you drain into the forward tank and, since water seems its own level, both tanks will fill. We used Hepvo inline p-traps on all fixture lines. The shower drains in a line that is within the belly pan with the Hepvo below the floor. We use a macerater pump that sucks both tanks dry in about three minutes. It's kinda tricky and that's why we mocked it up. The pump was sucking a lot of air initially because the pump was sucking more than the flow could supply. We fixed that by adding a fitting on the bottom of the aft tank. This nineties down, over a foot, then back up and connects to the main drain line. This will have a manual drain valve for winterizing. This trap is against the outside of the belly pan. When the tanks are full, the trap stays full of water and allows the macerater pump to suck water instead of water and air. It's hard for me to explain, it it's pretty simple. I also sent you a private message with my phone number if I wasn't able to explain the process. Thanks and good luck.
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Old 03-26-2017, 12:33 PM   #7
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1967 26' Overlander
Haute-Aboujagane , New Brunswick
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I wish you some good luck. We are doing the same at the moment too with a 67 Overlander . My husband has the frame in the garage and has just finished the first coat. I look forward to seeing your progress.
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Old 03-26-2017, 12:35 PM   #8
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1990 34' Limited
2013 27' FB International
Conroe , Texas
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I haven't got there on my renovation, I plan to add a crossover pan from my fridge to closet area. This will be for future solar wiring. Tanks will need new wiring for the monitoring system plus trailer brakes and running lights. Also I will be painting my frame Black to match my hitch system color and it's easier to match paint for touch up work.
Please post some pictures
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Old 03-26-2017, 03:11 PM   #9
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1963 24' Tradewind
Chillicothe , Illinois
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Posts: 16
I finished my 63 Tradewind frame renovation last spring. Since the belly pan wraps up to the c-channel, you will need to replace the subfloor, attach the c-channel to the subfloor, insulate, then do the bellypan. I added an extra pvc pipe for a future raceway, from one side to the other in the bedroom area for future wiring. One other thing I did was to only run two feet of bellypan along the side, leaving the center of the trailer to do later, his way I still have access under the trailer while I am finishing up the mechanicals.
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Old 03-27-2017, 09:33 PM   #10
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Reno , Nevada
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The frame is sand blasted! We didn't blast away every speck of rust because are planning to coat with POR 15, and I think it is ok to have a touch of rust still on it for bonding? Hoping to get it partially painted (POR 15), bad cross members cut out, and tanks ordered this week/weekend!

Bubba, thanks for the advice! I really like the idea of adding in that pump. My husband may call you, he is in the midst of planning all of our plumbing now. It sounds like your setup is consistent with what we want to do with our tanks as far as where to put the fittings.

Chillitom, I love the idea of keeping some of the bellypan open for future work. I cannot wait to get her all buttoned up again. It's making me nervous having her in pieces!!

I attached some pictures of the shell off of the frame as well as before and afters of the frame.
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Old 03-27-2017, 09:36 PM   #11
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Reno , Nevada
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Question??

So the PO welded a big piece of metal on to the passenger side of the trailer (is 'street side' the correct lingo here?). Does anybody know what purpose this would have and why it was only done to one side??? Can't figure it out... (See attached pics of both sides)
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Old 03-27-2017, 10:21 PM   #12
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1963 22' Safari
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Hard to say, but very possible they were bottoming out due to worn out axles and either broke the bath tub trap or other plumbing etc back there enough times they decided to modify. The loop with the huge hole through the frame is stock, our 62 tradewind has that as a means to get the tub drain over to the dump valve.
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Old 04-02-2017, 06:23 PM   #13
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Reno , Nevada
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Planning on having that piece of metal cut off when we replace the rear crossmembers. Are there any places that sell these crossmembers? Or any recommendations for materials to use to fabricate them?
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Old 04-02-2017, 07:00 PM   #14
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1966 22' Safari
1955 22' Flying Cloud
Fredericksburg , Texas
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Chances are they are 14 gauge. I replaced several of mine with 2"x 4" 14 gauge purlins. These do not have the weight reducing cut outs, but you could match the existing by using a jig saw with a metal blade and cut out holes to match. 14 gauge cuts easily. Good luck.
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Old 04-03-2017, 09:07 PM   #15
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1959 24' Tradewind
Twin Falls , Idaho
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kmtanner View Post
So the PO welded a big piece of metal on to the passenger side of the trailer (is 'street side' the correct lingo here?). Does anybody know what purpose this would have and why it was only done to one side??? Can't figure it out... (See attached pics of both sides)
I think that bar is two fold.
1. Provide some frame support where that big hole is
2. Drag bar. So the back end won't drag the ground. Although, not sure why there isn't one on the other side

This must be the year of Tradewinds getting rebuilt. We're at about the same stage as you. Getting frame sandblasted Friday
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Old 04-04-2017, 09:44 AM   #16
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Reno , Nevada
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We plan on replacing the axle, so I'm hoping that we won't need that drag bar on the other side, if that is what it was for. It is much, much heavier duty than the original frame piece. I'm thinking the W shaped pieces were also for drag.

Trons, let me know how it goes! We borrowed a blaster and did ours, but if I had to do it over I would have it done by somebody else. We had to rent a big compressor and it was just a PITA to get it all done ourselves. But we are learning for the next go 'round!

Bubba thanks for the recommendations! Hopefully we will be able to pick up that materials this week.
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