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Old 02-10-2010, 03:11 PM   #15
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1964 22' Safari
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Excellent Rich! I know of one 1964 Safari from Minnesota that will follow your lead. I'll let you know later this year what kind of shape I find my bolts and screws. I might actaully have mine welded, but we'll see when we get there.
-Tim
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Old 02-10-2010, 04:31 PM   #16
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1968 24' Tradewind
1959 17' Pacer
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Thanks for the update, not a lot of support in that rear area and to make matters even worse the factory cut a big chunk of the subfloor out on mine to make room for the toilet and drains.
Kevin
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Old 02-10-2010, 04:48 PM   #17
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Tim, welding will only improve it more. The short outriggers don't even reach the C-channel, but you can tie them together with this added piece and have a very substantial frame.
Kevinb, You are welcome. The hole in my floor was small and didn't reach to the frame rails, so it probably didn't hurt the already poor structure back there. I was quoted $300 to make and weld in these pieces, which is quite worthwhile but with mouths to feed I had to go the cheap route.

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Old 02-10-2010, 05:28 PM   #18
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1964 30' Sovereign
1959 22' Flying Cloud
1957 26' Overlander
Raglan , New Zealand
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I too had wondered about using a treated ply or treatment on the ply for flooring. I have read on other threads of owners installing marine grade plywood as a substitute. Marine ply here has high levels of Copper Chromate.Personally for me, I would be concerned about the Copper component ( or any element for that matter ), reacting with the Aluminium when in contact. I suppose an inert barrier could be implemented. Would be interested in others opinion on that one,
Pete


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I haven't torn into my floor yet (daunting task) so I may be wrong on this one, but doesn't the outrigger sandwich the plywood with the c-channel?

For thwarting rot, has anyone ever treated their flooring with Copper Green?
TECHNICAL SHEET COPPER GREEN

A former room-mate of mine is a park ranger and they swear by this stuff whenever they are putting wood in contact with soil. It can be a bit malodorous, so I would definitely be sure it is fully dried before installation.
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Old 02-10-2010, 07:17 PM   #19
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I looked into marine ply and was turned off by the cost being three times what 5/8" exterior grade fir siding goes for. If you have the money it's a good product, and I've never heard of copper chromate in marine ply. Typically it's the same as exterior fir ply, but without any voids, and with the same adhesives as regular exterior ply.
I just coated my flooring with water-based floor finish underneath, and Kilz primer and exterior latex housepaint on the perimeter.
The copper chromate will cause you more problems than it will the aluminum. I would not use it in any space that will be enclosed where people reside, barrier or no.

Rich the viking

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I too had wondered about using a treated ply or treatment on the ply for flooring. I have read on other threads of owners installing marine grade plywood as a substitute. Marine ply here has high levels of Copper Chromate.Personally for me, I would be concerned about the Copper component ( or any element for that matter ), reacting with the Aluminium when in contact. I suppose an inert barrier could be implemented. Would be interested in others opinion on that one,
Pete
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