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Old 03-16-2010, 03:42 PM   #57
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I need a good step by step photo tutorial on putting in olympic rivets, any suggestions?
Gotta admit: this was hard to find! I had to type "Olympic rivets" into the search box of youtube! :: phew ::

The I went to lunch...

YouTube - Airstream Field Rivet Olympic

ps: you can buy them from Outdoors Mart, too. Not sure about the tool to dress them, but probably...
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Old 03-16-2010, 04:57 PM   #58
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Thanks! Youtube is restricted on my work machine but I was able to watch it when I got home. Are these the same rivets I hear others talking about bucking? That sound like a two person operation.
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Old 03-16-2010, 08:21 PM   #59
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Thanks! Youtube is restricted on my work machine but I was able to watch it when I got home. Are these the same rivets I hear others talking about bucking? That sound like a two person operation.
No, Olympic rivets are not the same. Olympic rivets are one form of "blind rivet" which means you only need access to one side of the piece to be worked. To install an Olympic rivet, you use a hand riveter that you squeeze. The tool grasps the mandrel and pulls on it, which deforms three legs on the back side of the rivet and slowly clamps the pieces together. Pop rivets use the same tool and work in similar fashion, but instead of three individual legs deforming and pulling tight against the backside, the entire shaft sort of deforms and fattens up on the backside.

Solid rivets are different. They are structural rivets in the aircraft industry, and they require two people for installation. One person operates the rivet gun on the front side (you can think of this gun as a more precise air hammer), while another person uses a "bucking bar" and presses it against the back side of the rivet (after the rivet has penetrated the two or more sheets you're attempting to fasten together). The bucking bar is any flat, hard piece of metal-- its purpose is to apply pressure from the back side as the rivet gun hammers the rivet from the front side. The back of the rivet fattens up and squeezes the sheets together, forming a really solid joint when done properly.

Hope that helps.

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Old 03-17-2010, 01:52 PM   #60
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Thanks utee. I am learning a great deal and having fun!

BTW has anybody ever tried replacing the plywood with a planked floor? I have a source of cheap abundant rough sawn cypress planks and a power planer. Does the Airstream rely on the plywood structurally like a diaphram?
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Old 03-17-2010, 04:17 PM   #61
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I wished I had named this thread something else. The title seems too negative to me. The truth is I am having a lot of fun working on my Airstream and it's something that I derive enjoyment from. If any administrators are out there reading this can we name this thread '64 Overlander Rescue'.
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Old 03-17-2010, 04:22 PM   #62
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I had planned on working on the trailer today but we are putting to sea soon and the wife doesn't want to share me with the project today.
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Old 03-17-2010, 04:23 PM   #63
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I wished I had named this thread something else. The title seems too negative to me. The truth is I am having a lot of fun working on my Airstream and it's something that I derive enjoyment from. If any administrators are out there reading this can we name this thread '64 Overlander Rescue'.
Go ahead and PM one of them, they will change it for you.

You should try the Google Search on the Forums to answer your question about the planked floor. I believe this has been done before, but I don't know about any long-term results. From my understanding, the floor and frame below it are important to the overall structure of the Airstream, so larger sheets of plywood might provide better support than individual planks would.

But, I'm an electrical engineer, not a structural one...
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Old 03-17-2010, 04:43 PM   #64
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Took your advice utee and asked moderator mel to change the name.
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Old 03-17-2010, 05:20 PM   #65
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Gotta admit: this was hard to find! I had to type "Olympic rivets" into the search box of youtube! :: phew ::

The I went to lunch...

YouTube - Airstream Field Rivet Olympic

ps: you can buy them from Outdoors Mart, too. Not sure about the tool to dress them, but probably...
Aage what is that syringe shaped metal bit in the foreground? What does it do?
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Old 03-18-2010, 07:25 AM   #66
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Just my point of view. The dressing tool shown in the video is over $200.00. I've used a Drummel tool with a cutoff wheel. It may not be as perfect. If someone is looking that close at my rivets, they may be missing the big picture.
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Aage what is that syringe shaped metal bit in the foreground? What does it do?
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Old 03-18-2010, 12:57 PM   #67
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Since you removed the inside skin I would go with buck rivet instead of Olympics. Olympics are basically big pop rivet and would not trust them too much in a long term. They are convenient if you have to do a job and don't want to remove the inside skin.

The syringe you can see is a cleco. It hold temporary the two sheet you will rivet. It is like a clamp.

I wouldn't go with plank sub floor. Structurally I don't think it's anything good and there is too much seams where the water can run. Though it might be possible to laminate it with fiberglass and epoxy.
Your Frame/Subfloor/Shell is the structure. Put the $$$ here. Delay or make cuts on other items. If your structure is rock solid the money spent in is then investment.
And it's a lot of job to redo it. Do it right the first time. Do the math. How much will you save going Plank instead of Ply. And add the fact that within 3 year you will have to back again to it. Plus all the impact it could have had on the other items in your AS. I suspect a plank sub floor would allow the body to twist.
I don't know for sure but wouldn't take any chance. Not for that. I myself planing to put up to $700 for my sub floor if I find a material that is up to the task (like nyloboard if the feedback are good enough - though a good quality ply with epoxy on edge and water sealant would sure do the job).
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Old 03-18-2010, 01:25 PM   #68
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Thanks Duff, I think you are right about the planks verses sheets thinking.

The cleco's looks like it might be handy. I think I will try to get some.
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Old 03-18-2010, 01:50 PM   #69
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You are welcome.

Clecos can be purchase from vintage trailer supply or aircraftspruce. And rivets as well.

Keep posting images...
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Old 03-19-2010, 09:13 AM   #70
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Clecoes are amazing. If you're going to be doing any exterior panel replacement then I would consider them a necessity. But even for the interior panel work I did they were incredibly helpful, especuially since I do about 98% of the Airstream work alone.

I bought 50 1/8 and 50 5/32, and could have used 50 more of each
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