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Old 03-13-2010, 04:51 PM   #29
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1968 26' Overlander
Damascus , Virginia
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I bought a 68 overlander about two months ago. So far I have done the following:

Entirely gutted
Relpaced subfloor in back
Rewired
Replumbed

All of these chores were daunting and I dreaded doing them. Once i got to moving along on them it seemed to be easier than I thought. I definitely takes two people to do the subfloor. Everything else I did my self.

The remaining things I am going to do in consecutive order:
Reinstall Shower and Toilet Surroud after epoxy painting them.
Kool-Seal the roof to discourage further leaks
Install tankless water heater to save weight and water
Install good laminate flooring
Build beds, cabinets, walls,
Have a party when it is done!

I figure Ill spend about $2500 on this project. This website definitley was the best resource for planning.

Good Luck, I looks like you are about a month behind me! I hope to be done in another month and a half or so.
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Old 03-13-2010, 05:10 PM   #30
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Gloucester , Virginia
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Thanks ddwyer! Pictures, words of advice, funny stories??? Not so funny stories???
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Old 03-13-2010, 05:55 PM   #31
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Did you do a shell off Steve?
Shell on.Windy where I am and did not have enough room in the barn.Going well.Got belly pan out today,ground off bolts and start cleaning the frame tomorrow.There are a few places I want to reinforce with angle iron in the back and beef up the channel to floor hold down in the rear.
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Old 03-13-2010, 07:40 PM   #32
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Gloucester , Virginia
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I think I am going to go with the shell off approach. We don't have much plywood left around the border of the wall. may as well just get the shell up and work unencumbered. Keep me posted though on the shell on thing, if you have any epiphanies, I would love to hear them.
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Old 03-13-2010, 08:16 PM   #33
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Gloucester , Virginia
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Mrs JFerguson and I are seriously considering changing the floor plan completely. Since we don't have any existing stuff, no reason to be a slave to the old plan. We have been talking about moving the master bed to the rear, putting bunks on the port side over the the wheel well and the shower and head over the starboard side fender. My concern is how do I plumb around the fender well.
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Old 03-13-2010, 08:23 PM   #34
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1974 31' Sovereign
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Since we don't have any existing stuff, no reason to be a slave to the old plan.
Other than keeping the balance of the trayla reasonable and the tongue weight in line, nope, you don't!
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Old 03-13-2010, 08:28 PM   #35
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Aage...keep me honest!!! What is the ideal weight ratio for one of these trailers in terms of weight forward of the axle and aft of the axle?
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Old 03-13-2010, 08:28 PM   #36
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1955 22' Flying Cloud
Yreka , California
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Howdy, I've found two concerns in designing the FC. Over the fender well for the Bath is going to work however I've had to create a space in the bath stall design so the gray water form the sink witch will be forward of the bath to run thru a space created for in the wall of the shower front step over. Also I've found that the Black water plumbing needs to come through the floor back of the axles. Axle movement will not allow the plumbing to travel over the axles.I have a drawing I could share with you on what my plan is to date.
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Mrs JFerguson and I are seriously considering changing the floor plan completely. Since we don't have any existing stuff, no reason to be a slave to the old plan. We have been talking about moving the master bed to the rear, putting bunks on the port side over the the wheel well and the shower and head over the starboard side fender. My concern is how do I plumb around the fender well.
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Old 03-13-2010, 08:29 PM   #37
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I think I am going to go with the shell off approach. We don't have much plywood left around the border of the wall. may as well just get the shell up and work unencumbered. Keep me posted though on the shell on thing, if you have any epiphanies, I would love to hear them.
Before you shell off check out the bracing some are doing to keep the shell from distorting.Ambassador Redux thread has some good pictures of the bracing for the shell off.
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Old 03-13-2010, 08:42 PM   #38
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The head "needs" to empty straight down into the black tank so keep that in mind.

It doesn't "have" to but plumbing can be problematic and lead to excessive flushing and that will fill the black tank pretty quick.
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Old 03-13-2010, 08:45 PM   #39
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I am all about K.I.S.S. Plumbing. what if I had the tank start above floor level with the comode sitting atop it and the tank goes down into the center deck beneath the passage way.
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Old 03-14-2010, 09:19 PM   #40
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It's begun

Removed some interior panels today. Decided to stop till I could get a good dust mask...that insulation is bad for the lungs. Surprise, surprise, some fiberglass over the old bathroom instead of aluminum. Hmm wonder if that it stock?
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Old 03-15-2010, 12:26 AM   #41
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Good idea, getting the mask. And no, that is post-factory for sure, the fibreglass.
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Old 03-15-2010, 07:25 AM   #42
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Bought the local Ace out of #30 bits. They had #30 bits and they had Cobalt but they didn't have a bit that was both. I went with the #30 and it worked just fine. In fact I removed the entire starboard side interior panel and a couple of smaller ones and I am still on my first #30 bit.
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