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Old 03-12-2010, 03:43 PM   #15
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Well drilling out rivets with the small wood bit in my tool box only got me so far then the bit broke. What is the ideal drill bit for zipping out these rivets?
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Old 03-12-2010, 03:50 PM   #16
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For the 1/8" pop rivits use a #30 bit. I think its a tad more than a 1/8". Not all stores have them...but my Ace always does. Get a few...you'll need them.
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Old 03-12-2010, 04:03 PM   #17
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okay I posted something here, then hit the refresh and now it's gone...strange. Basically I need to know the ideal drill bit for removing rivets on the Airstream. If anybody has some words of wisdom to impart I am all ears.
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Old 03-12-2010, 04:04 PM   #18
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Thanks MD...any brand you are partial to?
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Old 03-12-2010, 04:07 PM   #19
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Oh I see when I refreshed it went back to the first page thread but to me it's like my post just disappeard....jeesh.
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Old 03-12-2010, 05:34 PM   #20
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For any interested I found a whole thread on the subject of drill bits and rivets.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f381...its-57741.html

Suppose I should do more reading before I ask! This site is truly amazing.
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Old 03-12-2010, 08:48 PM   #21
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I got a great word of advice from Rich Viking a couple of weeks ago."If you haven't already take our the floor first then the bellypan"Working on the bellypan today and I can image how nasty it would have been taking it off first.
I also discovered using a multitool from Harbor freight let me cut out the floor flush with the channel to use fo templates adding the width of the channel on the new floor sections.
The multitool allowed me to cut on top of the frame with no damage ,the in the open space between I used a sawsall with a 4 in" blade.It worked really well.Steve
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Old 03-12-2010, 08:54 PM   #22
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PS on the bits, get some good carbon bits.I also found using a drill with a cord or an air drill will keep you drilling longer than a cordless.The carbon bits last longer and cut faster.Fastenal if you have one near by is a good source.Good luck!It only gets better.Steve
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Old 03-12-2010, 09:00 PM   #23
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^^ I think he meant 'Cobalt'. Cobalt Alloy steel drill bits can drill into the steel HSS drill bits are made from... And titanium coated bits are a gimmick except in special instances like drilling hardwoods where the titanium acts as an anti-friction compound.
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Old 03-12-2010, 09:06 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wabbiteer View Post
^^ I think he meant 'Cobalt'. Cobalt Alloy steel drill bits can drill into the steel HSS drill bits are made from... And titanium coated bits are a gimmick except in special instances like drilling hardwoods where the titanium acts as an anti-friction compound.
Thanks Wabbiter.How silly of me! Cobalt is the one he wants.
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Old 03-12-2010, 10:32 PM   #25
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Thanks guys cobalt #30 it is. Hey Steve do you have a link for that multitool?
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Old 03-13-2010, 07:54 AM   #26
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It's a knock off of the Fein Multimaster.It comes with a couple of blades ,sanding blades,scrapers.Check your local Harbor Freight Store or harborfreight.com.
It was on sale yesterday for $34.99 when I was there.
I used the offset blade.Be sure to get an extra blade or a better blade that fits from HD or Lowes.
I first used at an angle to score the cut then went back cut a hole through to enlarge.I then put the sawsall blade in and cut almost to the frame.I then went back to the multitool(which is slower and safer than the sawsall)and cut the portion sitting on the frame.
Leave the remainder of the ply under the channel until you replace the floor sections.
Outstanding you have a 64!Check Ambie 64s thread on his 64 renovation(Ambassador Redux).Much for you to learn there .He did an outstanding job.
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Old 03-13-2010, 12:54 PM   #27
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Were any body elses windows seemingly stuck permanently to the windowsills when they got their vintage Airstream. Mine won't budge...and I fear prying them would break the glass.
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Old 03-13-2010, 12:57 PM   #28
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Did you do a shell off Steve?
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