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10-19-2014, 07:50 AM
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#21
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Rivet Master
1973 21' Globetrotter
Houston
, Texas
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 3,321
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When I flipped my frame, I put a loop of chain at the front of the A-frame and connected one chain hoist there. This was used as the "pivot point" for the frame, and the chain slipped through the hook of the chain hoist as I did the "flipping" from the rear end. At the rear end, I used two chain hoists and attached them both roughly to the center of the top cross member of the gantry, and the free ends to the "corner" of the frame. I then lifted with all three of the hoists until the frame was high enough to flip. At this point, I continued to lift with one of the rear hoists, while slacking off with the other. Once the frame was vertical, I disconnected the hoist that was connected to the lower corner, flipped it around to the other side (top side vs bottom side), and then started lifting with that hoist, while slacking off with the other, thus turning the frame over.
I used webbing rated to 2000 lbs to attach my hoists to the gantry and to the trailer. I attached the chain at the A-frame with a screw link, and all connections to the frame were put in place so that they couldn't just slip off if things got exciting. One downside of this method was having to buy a third chain hoist, but for the $40 or so that it cost, I doubt I could have built a precise, adjustable, and safe pivot so that I would only need one hoist on each end.
The major downside is that you end up standing under a hoist a lot of the time, and very near the suspended frame. If a hoist came free of the gantry and fell on your head, it would be your last trailer restoration for sure--I wore an industrial hard hat just for psychological protection. Similarly, if the frame was to get away from you, especially when in the vertical position, and the top lifting point lets loose--you would be lucky not to be seriously hurt.
Good luck (and stay safe)!
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10-19-2014, 11:42 AM
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#22
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3 Rivet Member
1963 28' Ambassador
Danielsville
, Georgia
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 107
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Thanks I am still studying the problem if I come up with something on the ends I'll post pictures . Now it's fighting the sand blaster and some touch up welding . a much better view from above.
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10-23-2014, 11:17 PM
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#23
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GlamperGirl
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 377
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May I ask you experts to show me what the 2 x6 supports would look like when I do the shell off.
I was just reading a comment on a blog that said: You might want to consider attaching some 2x6s to the ribs from side to side so that you can lift it back into place with a floor jack. I've seen a few people doing shell-on floor replacements experience this problem. The plywood is really the only thing that holds the shell up above the frame (I didn't realize how much support the belly pan provided, that is interesting to know), so once the plywood is gone, the shell and c-channel want to come down onto the frame.
1959 Airstream Overlander, "Someday": Lessons Learned
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10-26-2014, 05:00 PM
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#24
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3 Rivet Member
1963 28' Ambassador
Danielsville
, Georgia
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 107
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So i went junking , relocated some metal scraps and fabricated a spindle out of 5/16 flat stock. I attached it and it works fairly well attached is a photo or 2 ...It's not pretty but it works . I made it incorporate the receiver ball to keep it centered and helps lock it in as well the grade 8 hardware cost the most and a few hours labor . but its safer for sure . the back is more simple just 2 flat plates clamping on the rear bumper with a gusseted spindle my bumper is beefed up a bit so i doubt a normal rear bumper could take the twist of the weight.
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10-27-2014, 02:18 PM
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#25
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Rivet Master
1966 17' Caravel
Newport
, North Carolina
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,291
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Same yoke that I have and the back one clamps to the bumper which you could have both for postage!
Cliff
Yes I said that! Or did I?
__________________
Gotta get busy! Have a great day! Now where did I put those revits?
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11-23-2014, 06:09 PM
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#26
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3 Rivet Member
1963 28' Ambassador
Danielsville
, Georgia
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 107
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So my belly pan aluminum has arrived,Two grey tanks ordered plus My axles are ordered (Thanks Collin Hyde)and I am finishing a few things on the frame one is a spare tire rack almost finished. I also have to install the grey tank brackets and run stringers front to rear . This is where a lot of things happen at the same time. Hope it all works.
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11-26-2014, 02:50 PM
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#27
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2 Rivet Member
1969 23' Safari
San Antonio
, Texas
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 30
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Gantry building question
I have a question about the gantries as well, what stupefies me is how people move them around? Since the design does not have wheels attached to the bottom of the gantries, how do you lift, lower and release the shell and then MOVE the shell (or the gantries) so that you now have the gantries over the frame so that you can use the gantries to flip the frame over, etc? Maybe a dumb question but, it seems the gantries, once built, are too heavy to move around. Should I be building my version with wheels? Thanks for advice.
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11-26-2014, 07:31 PM
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#28
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3 Rivet Member
1963 28' Ambassador
Danielsville
, Georgia
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 107
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Well what I do since I rarely have help is move each side 5 to 10 inches at a time. It's a slow process but if you look at all my photos there's a three foot rise from Where my body is to where my gantry is now in front of my barn. I also used 2x4's to slide it on when needed . The gantry is flexible to a point so I try not to get carried away moving each side a bit at a time . Turning is where the 2x4's come in handy. Wheels would be good on a hard surface but not at my house. hope that helps!
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12-16-2014, 06:16 PM
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#29
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3 Rivet Member
1963 28' Ambassador
Danielsville
, Georgia
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 107
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Update : I made and installed a tire carrier in front .I have installed my grey tanks from VTS and plumbed them together and drains to tear trunk. I finished the second coat of por15 on the frame .I have made about 50 ft of c channel made by a friends bender . I used .40 5052 aluminum from Air parts inc. Also rebuilt my inner fenders with galvanized like original. por15 them and coated inner with rubberized under coating .The floor is next coming soon . Axles ordered one month ago still not here.
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01-18-2015, 06:57 PM
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#30
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3 Rivet Member
1963 28' Ambassador
Danielsville
, Georgia
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 107
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An Update, it was sunny this weekend I laid my first three sheets of flooring
stained, sealed, bolted down and installed C channel up to the rear axles. This picture is not showing the third piece. Four more to go and the big flip for the belly pan is next. I also picked up some wheels and tires off this 011 trade wind They were posted on these classifieds a long 4 hours each way but worth it.
Thanks Sam,they should look good on this old rig.
My axles are in the mail should get them this week thanks Colin.
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01-22-2015, 08:59 AM
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#31
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3 Rivet Member
1979 31' Excella 500
Florida
, Florida
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 119
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Nice work, reason for staining subfloor is?
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01-23-2015, 02:58 AM
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#32
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3 Rivet Member
1963 28' Ambassador
Danielsville
, Georgia
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 107
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It might be a while before i get a real floor laid down. And it was five quarts for 20 bucks
that someone returned at lowes. It,s all about keeping the wood protected when it gets wet. I will use it as a tent for a while at some point. I have 2 more sheets to lay down. Now we wait on the sun as it is raining for a couple of days. Tarps are so fun but have done the job well so far.
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02-08-2015, 06:14 PM
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#33
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3 Rivet Member
1963 28' Ambassador
Danielsville
, Georgia
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 107
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A couple of updates, I flipped it after some added work to the gantries. The floor makes it much heavier. I then acquired insulation and started the belly.
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02-09-2015, 02:33 PM
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#34
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Rivet Master
1966 17' Caravel
Newport
, North Carolina
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,291
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It is a rush flipping it with the floor on my babe said I was nuts!
Cliff
__________________
Gotta get busy! Have a great day! Now where did I put those revits?
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03-20-2015, 07:11 PM
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#35
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3 Rivet Member
1963 28' Ambassador
Danielsville
, Georgia
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 107
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Yes, and re flipping after the belly pan and insulation was on was a game changer.
Much harder to flip plus I had trouble with the rear bumper flexing. Also my rear spindle slid about a foot after i had it 90 degrees. WOW but I cautiously got it flipped and back on stands.If i ever do another it will be a 20 ft or less.
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03-20-2015, 07:16 PM
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#36
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3 Rivet Member
1963 28' Ambassador
Danielsville
, Georgia
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 107
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I installed the axles, shocks and wheels and a short test drive to line up the body install
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03-27-2015, 08:09 PM
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#37
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GlamperGirl
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 377
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Your belly pan looks really good!
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03-28-2015, 08:01 AM
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#38
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Rivet Master
1986 34' Limited
1975 27' Overlander
1969 21' Globetrotter
Conifer
, Colorado
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 8,319
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Looking good! You demonstrated how "flimsy" the frame and subfloor is without the shell on. I'm glad you got it sunny side up now. Once you fasten the shell to the frame, the whole structure becomes strong and light. Monocoque construction, like an aircraft fuselage, or like a canoe. Light but strong.
Good luck "marrying" the shell to the frame. Once that's done you are well on your way down the "full monte" road.
David
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04-07-2015, 05:09 PM
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#39
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2 Rivet Member
1988 34' Excella
Stanardsville
, Virginia
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 54
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Your doing a great job and were all learning from you!
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05-25-2015, 03:01 PM
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#40
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3 Rivet Member
1963 28' Ambassador
Danielsville
, Georgia
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 107
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Hey kids she got married this weekend. It gave us lots of minor problems but we over came them and its tight as a drum.I test drove it and parked it under her shelter go ahead and rain i dare ya!
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