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Old 06-19-2014, 08:23 PM   #15
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Danielsville , Georgia
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63 ambassador body lift

Well, to those who stumble upon this forum asking if they can turn a field find old can into a polished, usable A/S camper ! Yes, but it takes a lot of work, tools, time and money to do it. My hat off to those who have finished their quest.
No I haven't given up yet , I rebuilt my 63's bumper and made it removable. At the same time giving the rear a 14 inch trunk area. I'm working my way forward replacing all of the cross members and out riggers. These I have hand made from stock channel. Here's a picture of my slow progress.
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Old 08-11-2014, 08:58 PM   #16
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63 ambassador body lift

Here's an update. I'm working my way from the rear to front and rebuilt my steps. I have four cross members to go and about ten out riggers. slowly but surely. hope the pics turn out
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Old 08-12-2014, 08:25 PM   #17
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Maplewood , Minnesota
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Looking good! Slow and steady, that is all we can do.

Nancy
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Old 08-13-2014, 01:52 PM   #18
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I get much slower I will be doing a pulse check! But you are doing awesome!
Cliff


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Old 08-13-2014, 05:26 PM   #19
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Great work! Can't wait to get to this point on my '72 field find...
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Old 10-18-2014, 11:08 PM   #20
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I moved my gantries to use as a rotisserie. I have all my cross members in and outriggers done so now to sand blast and POR 15 the frame.The front to rear joists i'll install later after grey tanks. This first attempt at flipping the frame less the axles was a very educational experience in physics! I need to make some kind of center bar at each end to be more safe on the next flip. Any suggestions welcome.I did a little sand blasting today
it's gonna take a while on that job!
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Old 10-19-2014, 08:50 AM   #21
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1973 21' Globetrotter
Houston , Texas
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When I flipped my frame, I put a loop of chain at the front of the A-frame and connected one chain hoist there. This was used as the "pivot point" for the frame, and the chain slipped through the hook of the chain hoist as I did the "flipping" from the rear end. At the rear end, I used two chain hoists and attached them both roughly to the center of the top cross member of the gantry, and the free ends to the "corner" of the frame. I then lifted with all three of the hoists until the frame was high enough to flip. At this point, I continued to lift with one of the rear hoists, while slacking off with the other. Once the frame was vertical, I disconnected the hoist that was connected to the lower corner, flipped it around to the other side (top side vs bottom side), and then started lifting with that hoist, while slacking off with the other, thus turning the frame over.

I used webbing rated to 2000 lbs to attach my hoists to the gantry and to the trailer. I attached the chain at the A-frame with a screw link, and all connections to the frame were put in place so that they couldn't just slip off if things got exciting. One downside of this method was having to buy a third chain hoist, but for the $40 or so that it cost, I doubt I could have built a precise, adjustable, and safe pivot so that I would only need one hoist on each end.

The major downside is that you end up standing under a hoist a lot of the time, and very near the suspended frame. If a hoist came free of the gantry and fell on your head, it would be your last trailer restoration for sure--I wore an industrial hard hat just for psychological protection. Similarly, if the frame was to get away from you, especially when in the vertical position, and the top lifting point lets loose--you would be lucky not to be seriously hurt.

Good luck (and stay safe)!
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Old 10-19-2014, 12:42 PM   #22
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Thanks I am still studying the problem if I come up with something on the ends I'll post pictures . Now it's fighting the sand blaster and some touch up welding . a much better view from above.
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Old 10-24-2014, 12:17 AM   #23
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May I ask you experts to show me what the 2 x6 supports would look like when I do the shell off.

I was just reading a comment on a blog that said: You might want to consider attaching some 2x6s to the ribs from side to side so that you can lift it back into place with a floor jack. I've seen a few people doing shell-on floor replacements experience this problem. The plywood is really the only thing that holds the shell up above the frame (I didn't realize how much support the belly pan provided, that is interesting to know), so once the plywood is gone, the shell and c-channel want to come down onto the frame.

1959 Airstream Overlander, "Someday": Lessons Learned
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Old 10-26-2014, 06:00 PM   #24
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So i went junking , relocated some metal scraps and fabricated a spindle out of 5/16 flat stock. I attached it and it works fairly well attached is a photo or 2 ...It's not pretty but it works . I made it incorporate the receiver ball to keep it centered and helps lock it in as well the grade 8 hardware cost the most and a few hours labor . but its safer for sure . the back is more simple just 2 flat plates clamping on the rear bumper with a gusseted spindle my bumper is beefed up a bit so i doubt a normal rear bumper could take the twist of the weight.
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Old 10-27-2014, 03:18 PM   #25
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Same yoke that I have and the back one clamps to the bumper which you could have both for postage!
Cliff


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Old 11-23-2014, 07:09 PM   #26
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So my belly pan aluminum has arrived,Two grey tanks ordered plus My axles are ordered (Thanks Collin Hyde)and I am finishing a few things on the frame one is a spare tire rack almost finished. I also have to install the grey tank brackets and run stringers front to rear . This is where a lot of things happen at the same time. Hope it all works.
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Old 11-26-2014, 03:50 PM   #27
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1969 23' Safari
San Antonio , Texas
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Gantry building question

I have a question about the gantries as well, what stupefies me is how people move them around? Since the design does not have wheels attached to the bottom of the gantries, how do you lift, lower and release the shell and then MOVE the shell (or the gantries) so that you now have the gantries over the frame so that you can use the gantries to flip the frame over, etc? Maybe a dumb question but, it seems the gantries, once built, are too heavy to move around. Should I be building my version with wheels? Thanks for advice.
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Old 11-26-2014, 08:31 PM   #28
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Well what I do since I rarely have help is move each side 5 to 10 inches at a time. It's a slow process but if you look at all my photos there's a three foot rise from Where my body is to where my gantry is now in front of my barn. I also used 2x4's to slide it on when needed . The gantry is flexible to a point so I try not to get carried away moving each side a bit at a time . Turning is where the 2x4's come in handy. Wheels would be good on a hard surface but not at my house. hope that helps!
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