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Old 07-05-2011, 11:38 PM   #15
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Awesome by the way!

Thats cheating with the boom truck and all...

I think some have used the 3/4 and just routed the edge down to 5/8 to slip in the aluminum.
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Old 07-06-2011, 08:18 AM   #16
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That is waaayyy cool!

Have you also done the math on the price of insulation? It's more than the new wood for the floor
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Old 07-06-2011, 09:39 AM   #17
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Insulation

Well my thoughts on insulation may start further controversy. But since you asked... I was going for prodex (like the factory does) between frame and floor, with possibly polyiso board attached between the cross members.

For the shell, (option one) I was first going to pressure test the shell, properly fix the leaks, and then professionally spray in about 1" of foam and then attach prodex over the ribs.

That method would give an air gap for the prodex, enough room for wires plus the benefits of foam - more dent resistance, prevents condensation, noise dampening, sealing the inside, and better strength. However, the downside is the possible corrosion between foam and aluminum but I live in a desert. Please spare me the "your foam will turn to dust" comments because of all the things I have heard people say, that one is not true with the correct products. They use this stuff in brand new, all aluminum reefer trailers that cost more a new airstream and they expect to get over a million (literally) miles on them and see lots of bad road. The railroad also use this in their reefer cars as well, but I am not brave enough to encapsulate the frame in foam like some have in fear of some freak rust thing.

Option two is to use prodex with swamp cooler mesh for an air gap and more prodex. Someone else, can't remember who at this moment, was going to do that and it seemed like a great idea.

P.S. Once you go Boarder Collie, you never go back. We have three of them.
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Old 07-06-2011, 09:51 AM   #18
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I'm with you on the foam, I'm doing a spray of supertherm then fill the ribs with E-84 rated closed cell (tigerfoam), then a thermal break strip between ribs and interior skin
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Old 07-06-2011, 10:56 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darkspeed View Post
I'm with you on the foam, I'm doing a spray of supertherm then fill the ribs with E-84 rated closed cell (tigerfoam), then a thermal break strip between ribs and interior skin
Are your ribs tubing? Mine are just formed aluminum.

I see the factory appears to sandwich the pink stuff between the ribs and the inside skin for a break (Its in the "how its made video"). That why I was thinking maybe the prodex sandwiched in between instead. I really want to avoid the fiberglass. We fiberglass can not be any worse than wet foam.
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Old 07-06-2011, 11:15 AM   #20
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My ribs are formed with a 3/4 lip facing the inner skin. Look at my thermal break thread. Pink insulation is the work of the devil lol. And when you sandwich it it does very little however it looks like the supertherm or hot surface 1000 will slow up the conduction of hot / cold

http://www.eaglecoatings.net/content/hotsurface1000.htm

http://www.eaglecoatings.net/content/supertherm.htm
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Old 07-06-2011, 11:22 AM   #21
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The supertherm is neat stuff - iv used it before with amazing results. It worked better the closer it is to an outside surface because it needs to block the radiation before it can convert wave to heat.

The HSC1000 is more about stopping existing heat from moving by creating a thermal break

So my plan
---Supertherm sprayed on everything inside the shell
---Closed cell foam sprayed between the ribs - full = R14
---HSC painted on rib facing before interior skin
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Old 07-06-2011, 01:02 PM   #22
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Are you planning on filling the entire area between the ribs (the full 1.5")? Or just around the ribs themselves? The supertherm looks like good stuff, I will check into it a bit further.

The other reason I was only looking at 1" of foam was to try to keep the cost down. After all, I am only trying to improve on the pink stuff. I figure I could insulate the walls for arctic temps but the windows are single pane radiators.
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Old 07-06-2011, 01:20 PM   #23
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Yes full.
My ribs measure 1.8"
You are correct the windows will conduct!
There are some amazing thermal coatings for glass as well
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Old 07-06-2011, 01:28 PM   #24
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Filling the area full really appeals to me except for the wiring is going to really stink. I was going to reuse my interior skins and could see having a really hard time getting the 110v boxes and wires, along with all the other stuff exactly where it needs to be first.

On smaller trailers, I have seen people use conduit, but what I am looking at inside mine looks similar to spaghetti. It just does not seem practical to put every wire into conduit.

The other problem is the trailer light system (brake, clearance, etc) that look to be a big problem for future service of the fixtures. I am still looking at logistics.
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Old 07-06-2011, 01:38 PM   #25
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Two choices

A network of accessible junction boxes in hidden locations connected by blue flex conduit

Or every device in the front half of the cabin homeruns to the same master junction box, the rear half has it's own master junction box, and the two junction boxes are connected to each other with a large conduit

I would not have any wiring design where I could not pull out a wire or pull a new one in it's place
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Old 07-06-2011, 01:43 PM   #26
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I at one time designed mobile medical clinics and we did homerun conduit to one big nema box and sprayed the walls solid.
I had a long hand wood saw that I removed the handle from the blade, then welded two handles to one side. I could saw down the wall using the studs as a guide and cut the foam flush with the studs.
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Old 07-06-2011, 01:57 PM   #27
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Are you sugesting I rip my existing wiring out and start fresh?? Because my wires look to be in good shape.

NOW I am getting a headache.
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Old 07-06-2011, 02:08 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Landscraper
Are you sugesting I rip my existing wiring out and start fresh?? Because my wires look to be in good shape.

NOW I am getting a headache.
No I was saying how I planned to wire with a full cavity fill. If your wiring is good then leave it alone
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