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Old 04-13-2014, 03:52 PM   #1
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31' 1974 rear floor removal question

I have removed the belly pan, bumper, bumper cover, the c-channel and the floor bolts. I found an outrigger damaged as well as the rear most cross member damaged beyond repair. I have a new cross member from out of doors mart and 6013 sticks for welding.

i know theirs a c-channel pieace left, and i also plan to remove the plumbing back their, any suggestions?

my question is, is their any way to remove this floor without a shell off? Ill edit a crude video into this post after its done uploading.



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Old 04-13-2014, 04:32 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shadeemry View Post
I have removed the belly pan, bumper, bumper cover, the c-channel and the floor bolts. I found an outrigger damaged as well as the rear most cross member damaged beyond repair. I have a new cross member from out of doors mart and 6013 sticks for welding.

i know theirs a c-channel pieace left, and i also plan to remove the plumbing back their, any suggestions?

my question is, is their any way to remove this floor without a shell off? Ill edit a crude video into this post after its done uploading.



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Just reinstall the new section in two pieces, using a "cleat" to bridge the joint.

Colin
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Old 04-13-2014, 04:45 PM   #3
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Looks all to familiar...

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Old 04-13-2014, 05:01 PM   #4
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I have managed to slide a full sheet of plywood in by pushing down on the frame rails with a back hoe bucket, bowed them down enough to slide the plywood in. Probably not the most recommended method but it worked. Two pieces with a cleat would work too, and is probably easier to come by than a back hoe.

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Old 04-13-2014, 05:13 PM   #5
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Ditto on the sliding it in.
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Old 04-13-2014, 06:53 PM   #6
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well, just got the floor out, I just sawzawed all the pieces out. found a cracked cross member i gotta replace as well.

on a note about the cleat, wouldn't that mess with the structural integrity? or does the cleat prevent that?
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Old 04-13-2014, 07:48 PM   #7
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well, just got the floor out, I just sawzawed all the pieces out. found a cracked cross member i gotta replace as well.

on a note about the cleat, wouldn't that mess with the structural integrity? or does the cleat prevent that?
Not if it is glued and screwed together. In many cases glue is stronger than the wood.

If you choose to go two pieces then split it using a 45* angle saw cut, put the cleat on the one side, glue and fastened with screws, install that piece, then put glue on the cleat face, put the next piece in place and fasten to the cleat. I guarantee it the joint will be much stronger than the actual piece of plywood.

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Old 04-13-2014, 08:06 PM   #8
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Frankly with the exception of where the plywood fits between the outriggers and the base of the exterior walls, I don't think the plywood adds an extraordinary amount to the structure of the trailer, at least as it might relate to whether the plywood is in one piece or split.

IMO, a cleat that keeps there from being a soft spot in the floor makes splitting the plywood a moot subject as it is concerned with structure.
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Old 04-16-2014, 03:01 AM   #9
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ok im going cleat.. how do i go about this?
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Old 04-16-2014, 03:59 AM   #10
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ok im going cleat.. how do i go about this?
Got a picture of what you are replacing?

Basically cut the full piece to the correct size, then split the piece from front to back. I prefer to tilt the saw blade to a 45* angle. Attach a 3" wide piece of plywood to the under side of one piece using glue and screws, you will have to notch the cleat to clear the crossmembers, or use a few smaller cleats. Install the first piece, then install the second piece.

When do you plan to do this? I work in the RDU area and could possibly lend a hand.

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Old 04-16-2014, 04:17 AM   #11
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yikes, I already cut it down the center to 2 pieces starting from front to back. I had a saw zaw and made a pretty good cut. ill upload a picture by the am, I have already removed the rust and por 15 the frame. all i need to do before floor now since I found the bad cross member and outrigger is replace those. I am waiting on my welder to be able to cut the cross members out from the donor frame.

I am also buck riveting the c-channel back into the frame and undoing some Olympic rivets I found and replacing them with buck, someone didn't seal the panel on the right curbside rear with vulcum sealant. they used silicone. and the Olympic rivets are leaking. tell you what, a buck rivet gun with multiple heads is a good investment and sells just as good .
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Old 04-16-2014, 04:38 AM   #12
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Forgot to mention when you put the cleat in, leave some of it hanging out to attach the second piece of plywood to...

I am more of a demonstration guy than a technical writer.

Aaron
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Old 04-16-2014, 05:56 AM   #13
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crude napkin drawings are awsome to.
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Old 04-17-2014, 05:23 PM   #14
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Yes, you can replace it without taking the shell off. You can see the rear repair that was done on mine.
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