2 layers of plywood?

[P&K]

I am in the middle of a shell off floor replacement on my 1970 Ambassador 29'. I have torn the old floor out and noticed that at each lateral frame member (where plywood seams are) there is an additional strip of plywood between the sub floor and frame member. Is this standard? The two edges of sub floor that butt together are nailed to this strip underneath, essentially gusseting them together. It makes sense I guess.

[polarlyse]

That should just be a way of securing the span of plywood. It will take some of the bounce out for those longer spans between frame rails.

[Minno]

Originally Posted by P&K

I am in the middle of a shell off floor replacement on my 1970 Ambassador 29'. I have torn the old floor out and noticed that at each lateral frame member (where plywood seams are) there is an additional strip of plywood between the sub floor and frame member. Is this standard? The two edges of sub floor that butt together are nailed to this strip underneath, essentially gusseting them together. It makes sense I guess.

Yes, that's how they built the floors. In the narrow body 70's trailers, the floor is only 7' 8" wide, so a 4" strip is cut off the end of each piece of plywood. These cut offs are used as gussets to reinforce the seams. If you look at the framing cross members, where the seams and gussets are, the cross member is about 3/4" lower than the other ones to allow for the gusset. Glue and screws (or nails) hold it all together, and then it's bolted to the frame.

Chris

[Slowride66]

I just noticed this today But I was wondering was it necessary for the installers to bend the length of the bolt sticking past the nut?

Gonna be a SOB to remove.

Oh well I have cutting torches.

I am replacing just a 4 x 8 section in the rear bath of my 69 land yacht.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f36/...out-78002.html


SR66

[Phrunes]

The bent bolts are an insurance policy so the nut wont walk all the way down the threads and fall off. Like that crusty rusty square nut is gonna walk down a welded together with rust, machine threaded 6 mile long bolt! Hahaha

Another technique borrowed from the aircraft industry...all bolts should point down with nuts installed from the bottom, that way if a nut wiggles loose, the bolt is still there to hold things together.

[Slowride66]

Yes "held in by Gravity" I am familiar with that technique.

Would seem to me the Wire thru the hole would be more to aviation technology .

I prefer "top locks' Myself.


SR66

[Phrunes]

Originally Posted by Slowride66

Yes "held in by Gravity" I am familiar with that technique.

Would seem to me the Wire thru the hole would be more to aviation technology .

I prefer "top locks' Myself.

SR66

If you take your Airstream to the South Pole, do you change them to bolt in from bottom? Hahaha

[worldinchaos]

Originally Posted by Phrunes

If you take your Airstream to the South Pole, do you change them to bolt in from bottom? Hahaha

And I can't even imagine what you do in space...

Oh, wait I remember- they use Duct tape. Like when fixing lunar landers.

I guess we'll find out soon, since I'm pretty sure the Airstream is a contender for the space shuttle replacement program.

[P&K]

Ok everyone. I will probably end up moving this thread into one containing my whole project. This is just the start. I have some great pictures up to now that I will post later.

I have the shell off. The floor is totally shot. HORRIBLE. Front C-Channel is ok. Side channels are easy. The rear channel is shot. Does anyone have a source for the 1970 style C-channel (U-channel)? It is not the C-on-U style found in later 70s models, and its not the J-channel found in 60s models (at least I don't think it is). It is the same height on both interior and exterior.

Does anyone know where I might get this rear channel? Ideally I would like to find the channel specific to this model so that I don't have to cut and bend to match the curve. Andy, correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think Inland has this type.

[marzboy]

Originally Posted by P&K

Ok everyone. I will probably end up moving this thread into one containing my whole project. This is just the start. I have some great pictures up to now that I will post later.

I have the shell off. The floor is totally shot. HORRIBLE. Front C-Channel is ok. Side channels are easy. The rear channel is shot. Does anyone have a source for the 1970 style C-channel (U-channel)? It is not the C-on-U style found in later 70s models, and its not the J-channel found in 60s models (at least I don't think it is). It is the same height on both interior and exterior.

Does anyone know where I might get this rear channel? Ideally I would like to find the channel specific to this model so that I don't have to cut and bend to match the curve. Andy, correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think Inland has this type.

P&K The channel is pretty easy to get either Andy @ Inland RV, Outdoors Mart, Collin Hyde, or Uwe Sawender @ Area 63 can help you with that. As far as the other channel you can make it if you had a metal break. I made my own, check out my thread.

[P&K]

Sweet! That info should move things along.

This project is getting really fun now. I have been sitting on this trailer for about a year now. My wife and I got fired up about Airstreams and bought this one quickly. Should have researched more...

Luckily I am a fairly handy guy, and my dad is super handy and has a shop where I can get help with the frame repairs, so this is a father son project . We got the shell off today and have some pics I'll be posting.

Any recommendations on the tank situation? Like I said, Ill be posting pics in a couple days. The black tank seems to have been replaced at some point with a new one from Airstream, so it should be fine. The fresh tank appears original, but not particularly stinky or dirty. Should I add a gray tank? It would seem the black tank IS the gray tank on this model.

[worldinchaos]

Originally Posted by P&K

Any recommendations on the tank situation? Like I said, Ill be posting pics in a couple days. The black tank seems to have been replaced at some point with a new one from Airstream, so it should be fine. The fresh tank appears original, but not particularly stinky or dirty. Should I add a gray tank? It would seem the black tank IS the gray tank on this model.

From what I've seen, the canned response around here on that topic is "what sort of use will your trailer actually see? Will you be boondocking, etc?" and then the debate can come up of using a Blue Boy portable tank or two, versus installing some gray tanks.

I personally expect to be boondocking a lot and like the idea of being completely self-contained. For instance, we will only be installing a single kitchen sink and exterior utility shower (and boondocking outdoor shower) in our trailer, but are putting in 42 gallons of freshwater capacity and 26 of graywater capacity. Big change from the factory 12 gallon fresh and 5 gallon black that was there before. I can't imagine how many tanks I would be buying if we had decided to keep/add a toilet.

So there's one person's perspective for you. Seriously though, what are you using it for, aside from a father-son project which is a GREAT reason by itself.

[marzboy]

Originally Posted by P&K

Sweet! That info should move things along.

This project is getting really fun now. I have been sitting on this trailer for about a year now. My wife and I got fired up about Airstreams and bought this one quickly. Should have researched more...

Luckily I am a fairly handy guy, and my dad is super handy and has a shop where I can get help with the frame repairs, so this is a father son project . We got the shell off today and have some pics I'll be posting.

Any recommendations on the tank situation? Like I said, Ill be posting pics in a couple days. The black tank seems to have been replaced at some point with a new one from Airstream, so it should be fine. The fresh tank appears original, but not particularly stinky or dirty. Should I add a gray tank? It would seem the black tank IS the gray tank on this model.

Sounds like a great project! I am wrapping up a year of gutting clean up frame repair/ modification and new tank install. As wordinchaose said depends how you will use your trailer. I have a 30' so I decided to ad d a grey tank. I got mine from Ronco you can check it out on my thread. I hope to have pics of the dry fit up this weekend.

[Minno]

A 1970 AS did not have any grey tanks, the grey water watered the ground. It's one of those "while we're at it, we might as well add tanks" ideas. We're adding grey tanks to our '72. Chris is building them - you can see it on our thread "Little Girl Refurb". We're almost ready to install them...

Kay

[rmpray]

Just a thought, but I am replacing some of the flooring in my 73 and came by some fire rated epoxy plywood. When you think of the possibility of the occasional water leak (well we all know old Airstreams never leak ) this stuff may be a good investment. I have had some large scrap pieces I left outside, directly on the ground and often flooded (when it rains in TX) and not so much as a hint of de-lamination or rot. Be nice to just do this task one time.

[Phrunes]

Originally Posted by rmpray

Just a thought, but I am replacing some of the flooring in my 73 and came by some fire rated epoxy plywood. When you think of the possibility of the occasional water leak (well we all know old Airstreams never leak ) this stuff may be a good investment. I have had some large scrap pieces I left outside, directly on the ground and often flooded (when it rains in TX) and not so much as a hint of de-lamination or rot. Be nice to just do this task one time.

Man, I'd be all over that one. If you've got it, or can get it affordably. Do it!

[P&K]

Ok. I know I'm being a total slacker with the pics, but I promise they are coming. We have the shell off, trailer out, floor off, and belly pan off. I will order replacement outriggers tomorrow. The trailer is sitting in my dads shop waiting to be worked on this week.

Any thoughts on strengthening the frame? The frame appears to be bent (wavy up and down, not side to side), but it's hard to judge since the whole thing is floppy without the plywood or shell attached. The main frame rails are cracked and sagging about where the rear bath starts, so they will for sure be getting the treatment. The welders suggested "boxing in the frame" like they do on old cars, but I realize this is not a car and that different principals apply. It seems to me that if the suspension is doing its job well that a stiff frame would not be a bad thing.

I'm also looking for suggestions on where to get some axles around Austin or Dallas. I would like to pick them up to avoid shipping charges.

I'm feeling stuck on the fresh water tank. The tank that is in there is original. It doesn't smell or look funny. It feels pliable and doesn't appear to be cracked, but how long can that puppy last? It just feels like while I'm in here I should replace it. Again, direct replacement is available, but pricey compared to similar square tanks. I doubt we will be doing much boondocking. I guess building a rectangular tank into a cabinet or piece of furniture might be a good way to go.

I'm liking the sound of this epoxy plywood. I'll check it out.

[r carl]

I would build a new frame. Use at minumum 2x6x11ga rectangle tube.

[P&K]

I'm sure a new frame would be superior, but is it really necessary? Material cost is going to be pretty big compared to just patching it. It seems to me that as much as the frame relies on the floor and shell for strength, buiding a new frame might be overkill. The only real frame rot is on the very rear cross member and the outriggers.

[marzboy]

You can "box" in the channel like I have to strenghten weak areas of the frame