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Old 03-11-2016, 03:15 PM   #57
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That's pretty rusty on the bottom, sure it's aluminum. Either way- if they are solid patch and por-15.
Thanks...didn't know if the POR 15 was recommend for aluminum. I plan on using it on the frame but was unsure on the tank boxes.
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Old 03-11-2016, 04:34 PM   #58
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Use ap120 metal prep on the aluminum. I ordered the wrong one awhile back. Should work great! Looking good. Keep it up!
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Old 03-11-2016, 06:40 PM   #59
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I've seen POR-15 peel off old aluminum like cellophane off a pack of smokes -- left the aluminum clean of its surface crud, remember the corrosion never sleeps and will break the bond or undercut it unless it's been acid etched and passivated. Remember they've been dealing with this on Airplanes for a long time and have the systems worked out.

On getting replacements made, I almost commented before on how twitchy tin-benders are. My original black tank housing was left at a sheetmetal shop and the guy wanted me to court him like he was the prom queen. My guess is it's still leaning against the shops back wall where I left it.. the $$$ signs in his eyes at the mention of 'Airstream' made it easy to walk away from it...
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Old 03-11-2016, 09:35 PM   #60
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I've seen POR-15 peel off old aluminum like cellophane off a pack of smokes -- left the aluminum clean of its surface crud, remember the corrosion never sleeps and will break the bond or undercut it unless it's been acid etched and passivated. Remember they've been dealing with this on Airplanes for a long time and have the systems worked out.

On getting replacements made, I almost commented before on how twitchy tin-benders are. My original black tank housing was left at a sheetmetal shop and the guy wanted me to court him like he was the prom queen. My guess is it's still leaning against the shops back wall where I left it.. the $$$ signs in his eyes at the mention of 'Airstream' made it easy to walk away from it...
Good point on the POR 15 ...so work with what I got.
Unless I find a reasonably priced source to replace ?
Btw....I returned your pm a few times....or tried to but I didn't seem to be going through. Did you get it ?
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Old 03-11-2016, 10:54 PM   #61
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Ap120 metal prep is for aluminum. You top it with one of there hardnose top coats. Take a look on there web site. Still just a fraction of the cost for new ones
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Old 03-11-2016, 10:56 PM   #62
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Btw ap120 is used to prep aluminum for there version of a clearcoat and such.
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Old 03-13-2016, 07:20 PM   #63
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Ap120 metal prep is for aluminum. You top it with one of there hardnose top coats. Take a look on there web site. Still just a fraction of the cost for new ones
I checked it out and your right it would be cheaper. Might have to give it a shot.
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Old 03-14-2016, 03:14 PM   #64
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While its exposed and very easy to get to I would suggest .040 aluminum or .032 stainless to cover the wheel well shrouds in event of a tire blowout.
That old plastic will not protect your new interior.
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Old 03-14-2016, 04:18 PM   #65
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While its exposed and very easy to get to I would suggest .040 aluminum or .032 stainless to cover the wheel well shrouds in event of a tire blowout.
That old plastic will not protect your new interior.
Thanks for the tip and yes the wheel well issue was on the list. This list just keeps getting longer lol
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Old 03-15-2016, 04:54 PM   #66
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Yeah- I "kinda" wish I would have made some stout wheel wells out of galvanized or something. I put the plastic back in... I do fear a blow out.

That said, if I did have a blow out, the ripped up wheel well would be the easiest fix. The ripped up belly skin and siding would be MUCH worse.

With that in mind, I'll be upgrading to 16" wheels with the Michelin LTX MS/2 and a TST TPMS system to do all I can to avoid that situation. I figure as much as they are, its WAAAAY cheaper than trying to fix all that damage.

On second thought.... now that I write this out, I dont know that I regret avoiding the cost and effort of building wheel wells.... The plastic ones went in pretty easy.
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