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Old 02-23-2016, 01:41 PM   #29
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I did put a ladder on the awning to get the covers all the way out but refrained from any tap dances on the roof lol
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Old 02-23-2016, 02:39 PM   #30
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I think I remember reading a post from Inland Andy saying that the roof can support an average man walking anywhere except the endcaps...

That said, I still cant bring myself to do it. I dont know why... it just feels wrong. I use my gantry as a scaffold and its great for roof top polishing, vent replacement and AC replacement.
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Old 02-23-2016, 04:01 PM   #31
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Mixter, I like your planking attachment mid-way up the gantries. I believe I will get busy (when it warms up a little more) and do something similar for mine. Very nice! I'm getting too old to try to keep my feet on the rivets!
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Old 02-23-2016, 04:38 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mixter View Post
I think I remember reading a post from Inland Andy saying that the roof can support an average man walking anywhere except the endcaps...

That said, I still cant bring myself to do it. I dont know why... it just feels wrong. I use my gantry as a scaffold and its great for roof top polishing, vent replacement and AC replacement.


I ran across that post as well but I am with ya. It makes me a bit nervous.
Thanks for the pics. That will definitely come in handy.
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Old 02-23-2016, 10:20 PM   #33
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I get on top of mine to do work I need to do- no problems! But I digress, one should only do what one is comfortable doing. I do like the scaffolding approach😎
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Old 02-27-2016, 07:44 PM   #34
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Ok....well I have liftoff. It did come off a bit lopsided due to the weight of the door and awning but with the brother helping me steady it wasn't a big deal.
I will admit when it "popped " I was not prepared for it and nearly S $#t myself.

Now to the nastiness that was underneath.
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Old 02-28-2016, 08:41 AM   #35
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I am working in a muddy field. Which if you have ever been to the WV you know that every field is muddy and not flat lol
So I had to install a few 2x4's inside the shell to keep it off the ground and level it up. Have high winds coming in the next couple of days so going to stake it to the ground as well.
Preparing get the floor off the trailer. Hoped to use some of it as a template but the parts you really need for that purpose. Font and back curve are rotten so probably not much help. I have picked up so many ideas on here however as to cutting the new floor that I am not concerned.
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Old 02-28-2016, 05:18 PM   #36
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Removed the C channel and the floor. It is a mess under there but the main beams of the frame seem to be pretty solid..outriggers are gone but that seems pretty common from what I have read.
Plan to have everything off and out of the frame in the next few days and then take a good look and see what just needs sanded and refinished and what needs completely new part fabricated.
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Old 02-28-2016, 10:31 PM   #37
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The thing you'll remember half of forever is rolling the finished floor/frame back under the shell.

Hope you have water source in your meadow because a strong pressure washer grudge match versus the shell weevils would be another bucket list spectacular.

A leaf blower to chase out water from hidden nooks and crannies works well, watch out for water pooling in the window frames as it will be black mud from aluminum oxides and weevil guts... and the stuff the blower chased out from the rib/bows will need re-rinsing, just short of an infinite loop of cleaning.

The axle mounting plates - see if the outrigger leverages and/or rust expansion has pulled the top edge of mounting plate away from the frame rail, thus the outrigger is no longer level and the axle plate weakened; just part of the details to get new outriggers back in square, also - if an outrigger had previously been replaced they may have not had the insulation sandwiched between it and the floor, or the floor had sagged and those details were not corrected when the new one was welded back in... Just easier to find those before new floor sheets are getting schlepped around.

On the hitch socket - a rebuild kit is cheap but see how bad the socket wear really is, now would be the time to have the original cut out and replaced.

Also - if Joe Somewhen had ever tried jacking the trailer not from axle plates, or had a misadventure with leveling jacks and has 'kinked' the c-channel frame, that will be enough deformation to add to the total amount of tail droop, unkink the frame dents if you find them aft of the axles.

One of the things Andy has recommended is adding outriggers on the rear endcap c-channel, little stubbies to better keep the potion of motion away from the rear tie-down plate bolts.

:::sigh:::

Good going, don't fatigue, careful with the step parts...
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Old 02-29-2016, 10:01 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wabbiteer View Post
The thing you'll remember half of forever is rolling the finished floor/frame back under the shell.

Hope you have water source in your meadow because a strong pressure washer grudge match versus the shell weevils would be another bucket list spectacular.

A leaf blower to chase out water from hidden nooks and crannies works well, watch out for water pooling in the window frames as it will be black mud from aluminum oxides and weevil guts... and the stuff the blower chased out from the rib/bows will need re-rinsing, just short of an infinite loop of cleaning.

The axle mounting plates - see if the outrigger leverages and/or rust expansion has pulled the top edge of mounting plate away from the frame rail, thus the outrigger is no longer level and the axle plate weakened; just part of the details to get new outriggers back in square, also - if an outrigger had previously been replaced they may have not had the insulation sandwiched between it and the floor, or the floor had sagged and those details were not corrected when the new one was welded back in... Just easier to find those before new floor sheets are getting schlepped around.

On the hitch socket - a rebuild kit is cheap but see how bad the socket wear really is, now would be the time to have the original cut out and replaced.

Also - if Joe Somewhen had ever tried jacking the trailer not from axle plates, or had a misadventure with leveling jacks and has 'kinked' the c-channel frame, that will be enough deformation to add to the total amount of tail droop, unkink the frame dents if you find them aft of the axles.

One of the things Andy has recommended is adding outriggers on the rear endcap c-channel, little stubbies to better keep the potion of motion away from the rear tie-down plate bolts.

:::q!sigh:::

Good going, don't fatigue, careful with the step parts...

Thanks for all the advice. The thought of it that refurbished trailer going under the shell keeps me going I will admit

So pressure washer on the inside ? I was considering that but wasn't sure. I will post more pics asap.
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Old 03-04-2016, 03:41 PM   #39
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The belly pan is off which gives me a much better idea as to the condition of the frame.
Was getting ready to go after those tanks but was deterred by freezing rain.
Weather is supposed to clear here in a day or so and I will resume then.
I have already found a fab shop and will have them working on the new outriggers asap.
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Old 03-04-2016, 03:43 PM   #40
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I had no idea that the water tanks in these things were as large as they turned out to be. I also didn't know there was 3 of them. Black and gray is all I have heard mentioned.
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Old 03-04-2016, 03:45 PM   #41
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Btw....when it comes to the state of the axles. What should I be looking for as far as a sign that the might need replaced. Bear with me...learning as I go here lol
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Old 03-04-2016, 07:41 PM   #42
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I see much POR-15 in your future, Grasshopper. Actually, the frame looks pretty good, except for the outriggers. I'm surprised to see the boxed frame extending back as far as it does on the main frame rails. In my '73, it stops at the first cross member.

You should have a freshwater, gray-water and black-water tank in a '77, I think. IIRC correctly, the gray water was first offered around '73 and became mandatory by law a few years later. It would be advantageous not to confuse them when you put it all back together.

As far as the axles go......there are volumes written (and many arguments contained within them) here on the forum about that subject. Here's my advice: If they are original, replace them. They are long past their useful lifespan. If you think maybe they have been replaced along the way at some point, jack up the frame and see if they droop downward away from the frame with the tires off the ground. One way to do this is to pull one of the axles up on boards or something and suspend the other axle off the ground. If it doesn't drop/droop a substantial amount, they're toast. You might try posting some close-up pictures of that. We have many axle "experts" here who will be more than happy to "help" you.

With tongue firmly planted in cheek........

Jim
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