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mile2885 · 01-25-2011, 06:59 PM

Hi all- I've been replacing the rear floor in my 1976 23' Safari due to the rear bumper area not being properly sealed. After I cut and fitted in the new floor, I have over 1/4" gap between the frame and the wood on the door side of the trailer. Looking at the old pieces of wood, it looks like the trailer has been like this for a long time based on the lack of rot on that side. Not sure if it's due to build quality or rough roads. I've only towed the trailer home from OR and then started tearing into it.

My question is am I being anal with having this 1/4 to 3/8" gap between the frame rail and floor? I could shim it and forget about it.

I have read the rear end separation and could do the repair they outline but looking at my floor channel, it looks like many of the vertical wall ribs NEVER touched the aluminum channel all the way to the floor. I don't see how bolting down the floor would suck up the frame. The wood will bow more than likely.

I've tried to attach pictures. It is kind of hard to see by I tried my best to point out the area I'm talking about. Not sure how to move forward. The floor is not bolted down yet. Thanks for the help.

wasagachris · 01-25-2011, 07:15 PM

Mile2885 is your frame blocked and level side to side and front to back. The frame will actually flex and twist quite a bit. When I rebuilt mine I blocked the frame in six points along each side(12 total) as well as it sat on the wheels and tongue jack. I used a level on the frame rails and crossmemebers to make sure all was straight and level before bolting down the floor and shell.

mile2885 · 01-25-2011, 07:46 PM

The frame is not blocked. My pad is fairly level. I'll have to check it out. I was figuring I could lightly jack the frame level if things are out of whack. This side must have been like this for a long time because the rot wasn't as bad on that side due to the gap.

Wabbiteer · 01-25-2011, 08:20 PM

Remember the fiberglass was crushed betwixt frame and floor - if things have any memory before all the bolts and floor screws are installed it will be showing as.. a 1/8" gap. Also - the frame is held 'up' by the stiffness of the aluminum shell, and yes its incredibly stiff - I tried a bottle jack to the back hatch frame and got near zero lift from the shell to ease my back-sheet install.

mile2885 · 01-25-2011, 08:36 PM

I'll see where I can get it with a jack and bolt it to the frame. I'm planning on installing some 90s and attaching the vertical ribs to the aluminum channel on the floor and probably install the steel washers called out in the separation repair. I figured since there was insulation over the frame that could be a small part of the gap. I'm not going to loose too much sleep over it.