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Old 09-29-2012, 05:55 PM   #29
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Is that on the inside or outside of the a farm?
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Old 09-29-2012, 08:00 PM   #30
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It's the main 5 inch frame that runs the entire side of the frame
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Old 09-29-2012, 08:22 PM   #31
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That boxed in area with the lightening hole is factory. IT's solid back to the first crossmember where the A frame ties into the main frame and first cross member aft of there the lightening hole start.
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Old 09-29-2012, 08:43 PM   #32
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Is their any place I can get frame material exactly like this? I'm keeping it original as much as possible to keep it at vintage quality, my 34 footer I bought, yeah I may need to rebuild the frame on that but this one for the moment I want to be as vintage as possible.
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Old 09-30-2012, 07:22 PM   #33
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You might want to call the factory in Ohio to see if the have the name of folks who made it. Also you might be able to take a pic down to a local welding/fab shop and see if they have any ideas or if they can make something that looks close.
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Old 10-01-2012, 06:54 AM   #34
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I used 2x5x.120 rect tube its avaiiiable at any steel supplier. Used it for main rails,cross members and made my out riggers out of same material. Welds up easy and easy to cut square. Cut the out rigger shape with a jig saw and a bimetal blade.
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Old 10-07-2012, 02:04 PM   #35
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Update to my frame repair.

So the airstreams metal was literally flaking...and seeing shell offs usually equal out to project abandonment, I just jacked up portions of the as, took out the furniture for x part, got the floor wood out, and started surgery on the frame...

It's not as easy as working with a bare frame, but I was still able to weld sections back in, por 15 it and replace flooring. I also took this time to install new flooring on the top side. My mother likes stone tile, so I went a little out of vintage for it... How's it looking so far?











I included a picture of the pieace of the old frame for refrence to the new donor frame pieaces. I used POR 15 silver, not topcoat por 15 silver.. however on the hitch I clearcoated it to help protect against the UV sensitivity of the sun and mixed SOME flex additive when I put this on. Oh, I recremend getting a campbell haus detail gun and running the preassure into the gun to 30 pounds with an airwater filter attached.. Thats how i applied the por 15, and did half the trailer and didnt even use a 4th of the quart I ordered. This stuff feels so smooth and strong, and just to test it out, I hit it with a BFG hammer and it didnt chip... love this stuff..



this floor is rubber, very strong stuff, had found it on sale for a whole roll of 8w x 12l.. just enough after the extra pieaces were cut out to fill the entire air stream all the way to the bathroom, I added a more brown sandstone color in their.
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Old 10-07-2012, 08:57 PM   #36
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It is looking good. You are right about it being harder to work on a frame with the shell still on.
Keep up the good work.
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Old 10-08-2012, 10:53 AM   #37
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Look great so far where are the holding tanks, or where will they be?
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Old 10-08-2012, 01:12 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keithgrowe
Look great so far where are the holding tanks, or where will they be?
The big silver beam and pan is the main water tank, the rear grey and black water tanks are In the back, I have to replace the plywood floor because of floor rot on the rear panel floor, nothing for the elevator bolts to connect to. So I'm going to use the same thickness board that's been marine treated.
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Old 10-08-2012, 08:28 PM   #39
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Yea that's what I used and then topped it with fiberglass resin. Water proof and really tough..
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Old 10-08-2012, 09:26 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keithgrowe
Yea that's what I used and then topped it with fiberglass resin. Water proof and really tough..
How long has it lasted so far? Any sign of weakness?
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Old 10-21-2012, 12:29 PM   #41
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I'm in the middle on restore now, so in the last two months it has held up great. They add the fiberglass resin to the marine plywood all the time. Pontoon decks, some docks, ect. The marine ply is dry so it pulls in the resin nicely.
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Old 10-21-2012, 01:02 PM   #42
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Awsome, I'm thinking of having a wood shop bowl the wood slightly or have the resin done that way and add a drain to the grey water tank, so no standing water stays in the bathroom.
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