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Old 02-11-2018, 08:33 PM   #113
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I used a piece of stainless for the rear body plate too. It just made sense to me. I also painted it.

I won't be using the "anti flashing" piece. I want rainwater to run off the body and into the rear bumper storage compartment. I will then allow it to drain out with some drain holes in the belly pan.

David
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Old 02-11-2018, 11:04 PM   #114
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Originally Posted by dbj216 View Post
I used a piece of stainless for the rear body plate too. It just made sense to me. I also painted it.



I won't be using the "anti flashing" piece. I want rainwater to run off the body and into the rear bumper storage compartment. I will then allow it to drain out with some drain holes in the belly pan.



David


Always been curious on that one, where is rainwater supposed to run out through the storage area? I couldn't see any drain holes as such, so drilled a few !
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Old 02-12-2018, 01:16 AM   #115
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Hi TX, CD, All,
If I am reading your responses correctly, I may be able to get away with using POR-15 on all of the exposed frame and then inserting 3/4 inch plywood to replace the floor that came out...
I feel like the luckiest person I can think of !!! I know that I need to rebuild/replace the galvanized tank box, but from there it seems fairly straightforward...
If I am off. please let me know !!!!


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David
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Old 02-12-2018, 11:55 AM   #116
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Hi TennTex, CD, All,
Since there is nothing left of the storage box in the rear except its lid, is there a reason not to make the bottom out of steel mesh? I have some that is fairly robust (especially if cut to be that narrow)...
That way, if the water runs down the body as CD talks about it could go right through the bottom of the box.
Of course, this idea is based on the assumption that I will store the slinky and little else back there. Since our AS was missing that box, perhaps I can ask you guys: what typically is kept in it (that rear storage box)?


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Old 02-12-2018, 08:56 PM   #117
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I also drilled holes in the belly pan aluminum that acts as the floor to the rear bumper storage box. Rain water has to hit the ground, not soak into my subfloor edges.

The rear bumper storage box is commonly used to store the stinky slinky. My 1975 Overlander has the 3" wastewater drain manifold built into this box. There isn't much room for old stinky. The previous owner installed a plastic tube under the trailer for the slinky.

I use a macerator pump when draining the wastewater tanks. I don't use gravity. The macerator pump is in a box and in the tow vehicle. I do carry a slinky just in case.

How did they drain the wastewater tank in your trailer? I assume your trailer does not have a gray water tank.

David
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Old 02-12-2018, 10:57 PM   #118
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Hi David,
Thanks for the response! It sounds as if the belly pan on our AS was ripped off further forward than I thought...
There was nothing in the (only) tank. This AS has a history that is pretty much unknown to me -- we bought it at auction. Whether because of the deterioration of the floor or some other factor, the bath seems to have not been used for many years. The valve to empty the wastewater tank is just inside the shell. Until you posted what you did (thanks again , I had no clue about what the storage box in the back even looked like, except for the lid, which survived.
I hope to add a new inlet (if possible, in an effort to lower the tub) to the existing all-in-one tank, rebuild the tank box and its supports, replace the last 4 feet of floor and replace the belly pan.
I also have rot next to the front door, but replacing that section can come next :-)


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David
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Old 02-13-2018, 01:18 AM   #119
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hello david, on my 64 overlander, it also had rotted the tank box out. what i replaced it with was 2 strips-2'' wide with a plastic base that the tank sits on. rubber strips to cushion the tank, some holes to let water drain. worked like a charm! kurt
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Old 02-13-2018, 09:51 AM   #120
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Hi Kurt,
Thanks! Did you build the box yourself, or have someone build it?

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David
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Old 02-13-2018, 12:08 PM   #121
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Hi All,
I am looking more closely at the tail end of this AS, and I wonder if it is possible that it is missing a whole cross member. Below is photo that I hope will help provide context.

In the pic, the view is from the non door side towards the door side. I am on the ground and the camera is angled up. The tank support that had rusted in two is pointing towards the camera. There seems to be one or two vertical rust lines on the longitudinal frame (towards the bottom of the picture). Is something supposed to be there? And a related question, what forms the forward most "wall of the storage compartment (the one that the slinky is stored)? The storage compartment lid is open in this picture to allow more light.


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David
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Old 02-13-2018, 07:51 PM   #122
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Your photo shows the U shaped rear cross member. It looks pretty solid to me. The vertical rust line looks like where water was dripping and left a stain.

My trailer had some aluminum boxing around the tanks to hold the insulation and keep heat in the tank compartment. I will rebuild the "rear end" of the tank compartment likewise to hold in heat to keep the tanks from freezing. This boxing formed the "forward most wall" of the bumper storage compartment.

I am unsure of your tub plan. My tub is on a plywood "table" support about 4.5" high. Under the "table" is the trap, drain pipes and heat ducts to the bathroom. My tub integrates with the rest of the plastic bath furniture. It would mean starting all over in the bathroom if I tried to lower it.

Here is a photo of my black and gray water tanks that I'm not reusing. Your trailer has just a black tank, and I don't know what it looks like. Draining the tub into a black tank would quickly fill it. I think you would be better off draining all the gray water into a "blue boy" portable tank on wheels and then just tugging it over to the campground dump site. Many folks do this.

David
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Old 02-13-2018, 09:55 PM   #123
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Hi David,
Thanks very much for the clarification! That makes perfect sense (about the tank box being the "front wall" of the storage compartment.
My hope for the lowering of the tub is dependent upon a few things:

* re-routing the hearting duct, which I see as a small issue, and
* plumbing the tub. Currently, all water goes into the one tank. It has been that way since it was set up in 1970. I think you are right, though, that there would be a huge advantage to not using the same tank for all things. Any chance you would sell the old grey water tank?

Now would be the time for me to make any changes in plumbing layout. The other aspect of plumbing would involve a drain that uses a mechanical trap instead of the normal P trap. I think it is called Hepvo. This setup may allow me to drain the tub into a grey water tank or blue tote, as you described. As it stands, all of the grey water is routed to an inlet right near the dump valve.

Hopefully, the picture below will make it clear. The toilet flange is to the right, the vent pipe attaches to the white flange in the back towards the left, and you can see the length of black ABS pipe that goes away from the valve and then drops and comes back into the valve area itself.


Thanks,
David
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Old 02-14-2018, 01:12 AM   #124
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hello david, i built the tank platform myself, used the old tube for measurements, left extra tab length at rear for exact fit. it worked fine for 6 years until a fire destroyed my beloved overlander. what i learned on my 64 has help me on my 80 caravelle. kurt
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Old 02-14-2018, 08:33 AM   #125
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Hi Kurt,
Thanks for the info. I am going to my favorite scrap metal place today to look for sheet material and also the angle iron braces.
Sorry to hear about the 64... That is terrible!


David
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Old 02-14-2018, 07:50 PM   #126
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Heck, you can have that old gray tank if you want it. The trouble is the shipping cost to your place, maybe $75 or more. It doesn't weigh much, but it is a big cube. The old tank is only 10 gallons, really not big enough for today's use. And the spin weld fittings may not suit your new plumbing layout.

My new gray water tank is 27 gallons. And it is a whole lot easier to mount as it is T shaped and designed to be hung between angle irons.

Colorado David
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