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Old 01-29-2018, 10:26 AM   #43
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Old 01-29-2018, 10:40 AM   #44
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David, unbelievable, I got it myself. In picture one you will see I rolled the belly pan back out of the way until I reached the joint where new and old floor met which was by the way the original install joint. Please note in the same picture where I slid in the replacement metal brace above the frame, but below the floor and inside the Al skin. I think the floor was 3/4. Picture #2 shows a piece of 90 degree Al that I added inside the C channel to strengthen and tie frame, floor and channel together as noted in px#3. Px#4 shows one of the added outriggers that I mentioned before.
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Old 01-29-2018, 07:22 PM   #45
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Way to go tx70amb. Nothing better than doing it yourself, just like you did on your Ambassador. Your rear end separation repair looks similar to mine. I did drop the belly pan as I removed the old tanks, and I had some frame sag that I needed to repair. But the rear end separation and frame repair is done. I'm working on the tank install this week.

I made a new rear body plate, a new rear crossmember, and a new subfloor replacement to replace the rotted out stuff. The first photo is of the parts I made, and the second photo is the completed assembly with the welds done. My rear end ain't separated anymore.

I don't know if 02sheds trailer has rear end separation. Considering the floor rot he describes, it wouldn't surprise. Have you done the bumper bounce test?

Colorado David
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Old 01-29-2018, 08:07 PM   #46
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Hi DB, Tx,
Thanks very much! Guys, it is hard for me to grasp the description of the photos -- I think it is because I have not yet removed the rear section of floor. I will do so and review the pics again.
DB, I have not done the bounce on the bumper test. The floor is rotted away from the back end of the trailer so much (about 2 inches) that I am afraid to do so. Instead, I am planning on pulling the floor, checking the frame, and barring any needed repairs, sliding the new plywood in.
If I had to guess, the existing plywood is 5/8". If I find a discrepancy, I will try to route/shave the edge of the plywood so that it will fit into the channel...

Thanks,
David
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Old 01-30-2018, 09:15 AM   #47
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David,
We did not replace the insulation in the belly pan on our trailer. We do not camp in extremely cold weather, and have found that our floors are not cold. We used click lock cork floors in our trailer. They added weight but also are nice and warm. Belly pans are hard to get completely water tight, and, in fact, are not meant to be. I would be cautious about using rigid foam insulation, since if it gets wet it will hold the water up against your new wood subfloor.
Just a thought....

Kay
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Old 01-30-2018, 06:06 PM   #48
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Hi 02sheds: I can't think of anything you could damage by doing the bounce test. Except for yourself if you slipped and fell off the bumper. I stand on the rear frame rails, first left side and then the right side, and pretend I'm an olympic diver on a diving board. My feet don't leave the bumper. I'm watching the intersection of the rear body molding and the frame rail. If a gap opens up when I'm bouncing down, and closes when I "unweight" it, then you know the mounting bolts and rear body plates are rotted.

My trailer had about a half an inch gap. So I discount the asking price of the trailer knowing the extent of the work needed to repair it. If not accepted, then I find another trailer.

Your vintage Ambassador can handle a bounce test I'm sure.

David
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Old 01-30-2018, 09:27 PM   #49
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Hi David,
Thanks for the followup. I am planning on replacing the bath floor, so I will have the floor out as well as the belly pan. Would I be able to see any rot/separation then?
Today I started removing the bath fixtures in order to get at the floor back there. I am making progress, but things have stalled while I try to get the cabinets (or at least the walls) towards the bedroom area out.
I have pulled every fastener I can find, and nothing moves. I am clearly missing something, so any helpful hints will be welcomed :-)

Thanks,
David
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Old 01-30-2018, 09:55 PM   #50
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David, to help with understanding of of px note the hole in the frame from Colorado David px. It looks like he replaced the back 6 to 8" of the floor and then tied those two pieces together. A agree with him, his repair is going nowhere. It is solid. Once you start taking yours apart I do think the pictures will mean more. Please also note my earlier post where some great threads on this subject were around about 8 years ago. They served as my guide.
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Old 01-31-2018, 05:07 AM   #51
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I'd recommend sheet metal screws only in locations where nothing bad would happen if they backed out due to vibration. Our Airstreams flex and jiggle a lot when we're on the road.
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Old 01-31-2018, 04:45 PM   #52
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Hi Mimi, All,
I hear you on the sheet metal screws. I have a feeling that replacing the floor won't be the last time the belly pan comes off in the near future...
I have hit a snag, in that I need to remove the walls nearest the bath in order to continue. I have done some searches on here, but wonder what I am missing, since even after removing every fastener I can see, none of the cabinets/walls are budging. It seems as if I would need to remove everything along the walls from the door/refrigerator back.
Meanwhile, I got a glimpse of my future, and it is literally crap. The black tank may not have been used for some time, but it is definitely "occupied". I am sure that many of you have faced similar unpleasantries. I do not have the option to take the AS to a place to flush it out and empty the tank -- it has to be done here. Any advice on either/both topics will be appreciated :-)


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David
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Old 01-31-2018, 05:43 PM   #53
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A bucket, bleach and a hole.
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Old 01-31-2018, 06:36 PM   #54
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Hi Rug,
I am on that path . While my son was at soccer practice I visited the nearest Walmart and picked up the “wand” with jets at the end and some Camco tank cleaning chemical...
Any thoughts on where the fasteners are that I am missing on those partition walls?

Thanks,
David
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Old 01-31-2018, 07:04 PM   #55
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It would be easier to drain the black tank if you lived in the country on your own farm. I have a macerator pump (Thetford tank buddy) that grinds solid waste. I live on an acreage. I dig a hole and grind everything up. Then I bury it. I've only done this twice in the 13 years I've been Airstreaming. It is on my own property. Heck, I have a septic tank and drain field for the wastewater coming out of our house. It's going in the ground. I would never dump wastewater on public ground. Heck, we have so many elk, deer, a bear or three and foxes around here that my mess pales in comparison. I might add I found my black tank broken at the toilet spinweld. Thus the new black tank for me.

One watchout is the undrained black tank my have solidified if it sat for very long. You may want to add some water and let it soak for a week or so in an effort to loosen it. That is one reason I always try to have 5 gallons of water in my black tank for "slosh cleaning".

You are wise to move slow and not force anything until you find the "hidden rivets" preventing you from removing something. I assume you have your bed frames out. I assume you have your bath fixtures out. The pocket bath door floor guide is attached to the floor as well as the walls. I am not sure how to disassemble all that. I don't have to in my project. The curb side bulkhead wall is also a double wall affair. Both of the rear bedroom, bathroom bulkhead walls have vent pipe going up through the roof.

You may not have to remove them to complete your subfloor replacement project.

You will be able to see the rusty rear body plate, rotted subfloor, rusty rear crossmember when the subfloor is removed. You can look at some of the frame rails. You will likely have to drop some of the belly pan and maybe the wastewater tanks to facilitate the repair, like the welding needed. I did. Removing the belly pan is easy compared to other tasks. Putting the belly pan back up is harder, much harder. You will have to make or have made replacement parts for these rusted out frame components.

It's a big project. I find it fun. That's the reality for me. Yep, I'm wierd.

David
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Old 01-31-2018, 09:35 PM   #56
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Hi David,

"You are wise to move slow and not force anything until you find the "hidden rivets" preventing you from removing something. I assume you have your bed frames out."

No, I don't. Looks like they are coming out tomorrow :-)



"I assume you have your bath fixtures out. "

No, I don't. I am stuck/stalled because the walls between the bath and the beds are still in place, I am stumped about how to get them out...looks like removing the bed frames will be part of this...



"You will be able to see the rusty rear body plate, rotted subfloor, rusty rear crossmember when the subfloor is removed. You can look at some of the frame rails. You will likely have to drop some of the belly pan and maybe the wastewater tanks to facilitate the repair, like the welding needed. I did. Removing the belly pan is easy compared to other tasks. Putting the belly pan back up is harder, much harder. You will have to make or have made replacement parts for these rusted out frame components."

Great info -- thanks!


Tomorrow I will go at it again, with the hope of getting those pesky walls out. And I will definitely be adding some water to the black tank in the hopes of loosening the caked-on grossness...


Thanks,
David
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