1970 27' Overlander restoration

[vhord]

My banana wrap corners were badly dented and bent. I discussed it with a body shop friend of mine who put me in contact with a gentleman with an English wheel. He did what I thought was a great job and I had to force him to take $40! They did not come out perfect but will definitely be within my tolerances. I am thinking of further smoothing them out with some very fine sandpaper (maybe 1500 grit) before polishing them. Anyone have any thoughts on this?

[utee94]

Those look great! And for $40, I think you got quite the bargain. If/when I ever have an Overlander of my own, it might be worth the gas to drive from Austin to have your new friend do some work for me.

Speaking of which, I'm thinking about coming to Houston tomorrow for the Texas basketball game, and I might stop by League City and check out this one:

Hunter's Special: 1969 Airstream Travel Trailer

Whaddya think of it?

[vhord]

I have the back three sheets of subfloor removed and frame cleaned up. We welded in a new crossmember and added two angle iron clips to the outside of the rear frame for additional support (I think it is what is referred to as elephant ears). The outrigger underneath the water heater is rusted pretty thin so I decided to clean it up and add a couple of others, one on each side of it.




While I wait on my welder to weld these in so I can undercoat the frame I decided to practice on the floor sheets. I used my old floor for a pattern (what was left of it!) and with the help of my marks and lines that I had scribbed before removal I was able to connect the dots and make a pretty good pattern. I cut this piece out of 1/2" CDX plywood so I didn't mess up a $75.00 sheet of 3/4" marine grade plywood if I made a mistake.



I thought I would attempt to install it in one piece instead of splicing it. With the help of the wall opening for the water heater I was able to slide it in.





I would like to keep the bathroom sheet in one piece for strength. Is there any reason that I should cut my final piece in half and splice it?

[utee94]

I've obviously never done it, but from a structural standpoint I can't imagine any scenario where cutting and splicing would be better than a solid sheet. The only reason I can see to cut it is for convenience-- ease of fitting into its final position. But, it seems you have that covered, assuming that the increased thickness of the MGP relative to your CDX won't push you over the edge on space requirements for sliding into place.

Also, where do you source 3/4" MGP for $75/sheet? It's siginificantly more expensive here in Austin from what I've seen in the past, more like $125/sheet or so for 4x8.

[vhord]

Originally Posted by utee94

Also, where do you source 3/4" MGP for $75/sheet? It's siginificantly more expensive here in Austin from what I've seen in the past, more like $125/sheet or so for 4x8.

I bought mine from Deer Park Lumber, Deer Park, TX. I purchased 6 sheets for $74.95 ea. for a total of $449.70 and they delivered it for free. They may have given me a break as I bought it using my hardware store name. I don't know if there are differnet grades but this is 8 ply MGP as opposed the regular plywood which is 5 ply. It looks good and doesn't show any voids.

[fotochop]

definitely DON'T cut the subfloor if you don't have to! that's only if you don't have a way to pull/push down the frame to slip it in whole. one piece is better by far... now send that guy with the English wheel over to my house!

nice work, looking good!

[flynmike]

From your photos it appears the body is attached to the frame and not ON TOP of the floor like Airstreams from the 50's...is that true? I have a chance to pick up a 72 Tradewind real cheap but I'm afraid of the floor issue but if I don't have to take the body off I'm think I'm gonna scoop it up.

[Dan4odm]

Hey Vernon
I love the job and level of dedication on your restoration project. I was reading over the thread and saw something that concerned me in two areas.
I borrowed one of your pictures (showen below) so it would be easy to follow what I was talking about. I hope you do not mind?
I have always been amazed with all the design thought that has gone into Airstreams. What I learned on replacing an end cap was one of those times I was amazed.


Once I had the old End Cap off and was walking around on the exposed floor it was like walking on a very large diving board. That frame was very agile. I later learned that there is strength in the body (fuselage). The idea the rib followed from the side of the trailer, over the top, down the other side, and attached to an outrigger which was in line with the cross member and in line with another outrigger was no mistake. The idea that poped in my mind then, it was like the rib cage of a large whale. The frame and body are a total package.

Here is your picture and a darn good illustration of the rib structure strength.

Those outriggers follow the whole length of the body on the side.
And if I may be so bold, if the same structure strength were incorporated in the rear I think Rear End Sag would not exist. See picture below.

1)The thing that concerns me is not having a strong and solid outrigger at the rib of the body. I wonder if there would be a lose of strength and over time and crinkle the body just above the floor. The wood, body, and frame are a total package.
Here is a picture of the side of a unit that the floor was rotten and gave way. The side of the trailer crinkled.


And here is a picture of what is called Rear End Sag.
This is where the fuselage stays put, the floor rots, and the frame drops down. This is more evidence the wood, body/fuselage, and frame are a total package.


I don't think that not having one outrigger in the right place would give you any real problems but I would not do more than that.

2)The other thing that concerns me is, the weight of your home made outriggers. The outriggers that come from Airstream weight a little less than 3 lbs. Yours look like they could be more. Once again, using one or two should not be a problem, but more than that, combined with other weight additions as time goes on may be a problem.

I felt compelled to share my ideas, as I would hate for you to put all this work into your unit and have a problem later on.

I have worked on some of these Airstream trailers and when the customer came to pick it up, I felt part of me was going home with the customer. It is like part of my soul is going with them. I bet that if you ever part with this baby you will know what I am talking about. I guess that is why the Airstream community never part with their baby when they have put so much into them. They buy another baby.

[Dan4odm]

The picture in post #22 is a little hard to see. I croped it. and also wanted to say.
I guess they also moved the outrigger off the frame cross member to support the water heater. It may be that with no rib support there for the body, that it was better in the center of the water heater. Water is heavy. I do like the way you have the extra outrigger at the side of the water heater opening, as it was a concern you had in your earlier comments.

[vhord]

Dan,

Thank you so much for sharing this professional information. This site is sooo helpful! I love having extra sets of eyes watching my backside.

Originally Posted by Dan4odm

That frame was very agile. I later learned that there is strength in the body (fuselage). The idea the rib followed from the side of the trailer, over the top, down the other side, and attached to an outrigger which was in line with the cross member and in line with another outrigger was no mistake. The idea that poped in my mind then, it was like the rib cage of a large whale. The frame and body are a total package.

Here is your picture and a darn good illustration of the rib structure strength.

Those outriggers follow the whole length of the body on the side.
And if I may be so bold, if the same structure strength were incorporated in the rear I think Rear End Sag would not exist. See picture below.

1)The thing that concerns me is not having a strong and solid outrigger at the rib of the body. I wonder if there would be a lose of strength and over time and crinkle the body just above the floor. The wood, body, and frame are a total package.


I don't think that not having one outrigger in the right place would give you any real problems but I would not do more than that..

Not having a solid outrigger at the rib also concerns me. If you notice the last outrigger installed aft by AS is in the middle of the water heater opening so it gives or gets no suppport from the shell except for the floor. The next rib forward that is in line with the rib is still in good shape except for the bottom lip which holds the belly skin. I am putting that new one in there just to have a good attachment for the belly.

Originally Posted by Dan4odm

2)The other thing that concerns me is, the weight of your home made outriggers. The outriggers that come from Airstream weight a little less than 3 lbs. Yours look like they could be more. Once again, using one or two should not be a problem, but more than that, combined with other weight additions as time goes on may be a problem.

I have not welded the new outriggers in so I removed one to weigh. I weighed it on my retail nail scale and it weighs 3 lbs. 4 oz.

Another problem that I have noticed with the rear construction is that there is no real seal between the rear skin and the bumper compartment. It seams that any water ponding on the lid of this compartment will eventually seep under the skin and into the floor edges. I am going to attempt to build some sort of flashing to run under the skin and back to the hinge of the lid. The rounded corners will present a problem however.

Thanks again for your advice. Keep it coming!

[Dan4odm]

I would agree that it is a good idea to do something that keeps the water out.
We have customers come in all the time and we suggest they seal with TremPro Polyurethane Sealant . This is the stuff that Airstream are sealed with from the inside. This sealer use to be called Vulkem and takes a while to dry. Once it drys it has an almost elastic type property that adheres VERY WELL. If you have ever had to cut this stuff away from a lock or a panel you would know what I mean.
If applied carefully it would seal very well and almost hardly be seen. Being that you are putting it all together from this point, it may be that it could be done and not be seen at all.

Some people who want a inexpensive fix use it even though it can be seen. It is gray in color, does not stand out, and is better than letting the frame drop down.

[vhord]

Well I got my two additional outriggers welded in and was ready to POR-15 the rear frame. I needed to remove my 3/4" spacer blocks from under my c-channels to do this. I was worried about leaving the shell hanging so I decided to use my hydraulic jack and a 4x4 on the supported rear frame to lend a hand. I only applied enough pressure to support the shell.

Then I was able to get to everything to paint it. I am only doing the rear section now. I am anxious to get that "first" sheet of MG Plywood down and the rear shell secured then I can progress more toward the front.


In my off time (waiting on the welder) I decided to try the Aluminum Jelly on the corrosion. I am thinking that if I could remove most of it and prime it that maybe I would not have to remove all the outer skins. If at a later date I found the corrosion showing up on the exterior wouldn't it be just as easy to replace that portion of the skin then?

Here is before...



And after application of the Aluminum Jelly....



I may try another application to see if more of it can be removed.

Vernon

[vhord]

Well it feels like I turned a corner today! I still have five more sheets to do but I would have to think that the first sheet (rear) with all the plumbing would have to be the hardest. I cut the holes for the plumbing in my 1/2" test sheet first and set my holding tank in its cradle to make sure that it would fit.

I then laid my insulation on top of my frame.



I put a slight bevel on the outside edges of my plywood with my belt sander then sealed them with 3 coats of MinWax Wood Hardener
Minwax® High Performance Wood Hardener - Wood Maintenance & Repair - Minwax.com
According to MinWax it is designed to "strengthen and reinforce decayed or rotting wood" so I thought it might do the same for new wood.



Then with a little help from one of my employees I was able to slide it in.



My insulation moved a little but I think I can straighten it out from underneath. I still have to cut my holes for the closet flange, vent pipe, and hot air duct but I can do that from inside. I already have them marked.

It sure feels good to do something constructive for a change!

[monocoque]

Originally Posted by vhord

In my off time (waiting on the welder) I decided to try the Aluminum Jelly on the corrosion. I am thinking that if I could remove most of it and prime it that maybe I would not have to remove all the outer skins. If at a later date I found the corrosion showing up on the exterior wouldn't it be just as easy to replace that portion of the skin then?

Vernon

Vernon, I have similiar corrosion on the interior near the bottom of the center back panel and I have no idea whether to repair or replace the panel. The corrosion isn't visible from the exterior...yet. I suspect that the rusted steel angle that I removed that ties the flooring to the channel in this area may be the culprit. So I am interested in the Aluminum Jelly you used. Could you describe Aluminum Jelly? Is it available in hardware stores?