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shilgemann · 04-23-2015, 06:03 PM

I ordered my tanks from Inca Plastics, it took them awhile to get the ball rolling, I get the feeling they don't deal with a lot of small orders. I ordered the H-0094 which is 24x45.5x9 33gal for my gray tank. I ordered the H-0057 which is a 26gal tank measuring 17x50x7.5. I am having them shorten it to 44" so will lose about 2.5 gals. The distance between the frame members is 26x52 for the gray and 17x52 for the black. I figured I would need the 8 inches for fittings and valves.

I asked them to install (spin-weld) on the flush out fittings on the back so I can get a clean flush on the tanks. I am having them put two on the black tank--I know it's overkill, I just like the idea of being able to really flush it out. I initially was going to use the larger tank as the black since it is in the rear, but thought it made more sense to have a larger gray tank. My interior is a blank slate so the layout of the bathroom isn't an issue which tank goes where. My only concern was having the black "upstream" of the gray, but I think the extra flushing capability will mitigate any issues.

Total cost for both tanks, the modifications, (1) 3" grommet and (5) 1.5" grommet fittings and UPS ground was $422.

I made some mods to the frame to accept the slightly deeper tanks. I will get some pics of that and post it up next week. I am out camping again this weekend, so won't be doing any work on the Tradewind.

As a side note, the state of California is reissuing the 1960's style black plates with the yellow lettering. I ordered a set of personalized plates for the AS, but won't know which of my 6 choices was assigned to me until they send them out later this year. They weren't going to start pressing them until they reached their minimum order of 15,000--which they did before 1 Jan. Should be any day now.

dbj216 · 04-23-2015, 06:29 PM

Your Inca Plastics tanks cost about the same as mine. Inca treated me well. I like the rubber grommets as they allowed me to coordinate the mounting of the tanks as well as the drain plumbing runs. Once I determined both, I dropped the tanks, drilled the floor, hung the tanks, marked them, dropped them again, and hole sawed the grommet holes in the tanks. I had 5 drain and vent connections to my tanks. I did decide to drain the bath sink into my black tank to better utilize the holding space, and it was a shorter plumbing run.

I mounted See Level circuits to my tanks. So far the system works well. It's one of those "while I'm at it" projects and expenses.

David

shilgemann · 04-23-2015, 06:38 PM

David,

I ordered the SeeLevel 709PH, it comes with pump and heater switches. I also picked up some relays to run the pump and other higher drain devices off of so I wouldn't burn out the lighter-weight switches. The relays are cheap insurance against blowing out the SeeLevel.

I'll be doing pretty much what you did on yours. Situate my plumbing fixture, mocked up. Mark my locations, drill holes and then mount.

I'll make sure to take plenty of pictures of everything next week. Once I get the POR-15 delivered (tomorrow--fingers crossed--third time's a charm) I can go full-tilt on the flooring etc... I hate having to wait on supplies to get here. I am going to be two weeks behind by the time the stuff comes in.

In the mean-time I've been polishing trim pieces, painting emblems, rebuilding cargo doors, doing as much of the little stuff as I can. I need to get some pics of that as well. Some of the pieces are very shiny, let's see how long that lasts.

dbj216 · 04-24-2015, 08:51 AM

Very good. You're doing a top notch job on your Trade Wind. Actually I ordered supplies too early and they sat around longer than they should. Timing is everything. I was interrupted by heart bypass surgery that delayed me a good six weeks. I remember my doctor's "you gotta be kidding me" when I suggested I delay my surgery so I could get me Trade Wind somewhat assembled. I guess I didn't fully understand the dire straights my heart was in. That's the main reason I got and paid for stuff too early. Inca tanks came in December, I mounted them in April.

Have fun with your POR 15 application. The stuff likes humidity which may be a challenge in your clime. Study the directions carefully as there are some significant requirements to get it to do it's job. Even though I aggressively wire brushed my frame members, I found my POR 15 did not adhere as well to the parts of the frame that still had paint on them. But the old rusty parts it becomes a real durable hard coat.

We're out traveling now so my Trade Wind is sitting, nothing happening. I have a lot yet to do.

David

shilgemann · 05-07-2015, 10:45 PM

A quick update. My POR-15 finally arrived. It only took three attempts for them to get it right. I was able to get the frame painted and started to apply a topcoat of gloss black rustoleum (not really required since the POR is not going to be exposed to UV under teh skin). The ares topcoated finished dull compared to the POR. That stuff is pretty amazing. Finished smooth and shiny and has the feeling of a porcelain coating.

I started on wiring the trailer for lights and a power jack. I am using a junction box for all connections. I plan to have an access panel in the belly pan in case I need to get to it. I don't really see a need but better safe than sorry.

I've also added some pics of the add-ons to the rear. I extended the drop-down for the old black water tank all the way to the axle mounting plate and then put a new drop-down for the black and gray tanks.

The black tank was located between the last two stingers and that is as far as the old piece of channel went. The black is moving forward one section and the gray will take the rear area since it will be larger. By adding the extra 3 inches to the frame I now have a max depth of 11 inches for the tanks. The added channel and the extension to the axle plates also will add some extra strength to the frame.

The other thing I added is a piece of 1/8 x 2 flat stock along the frame rear of the wheel well to the tail where the belly pan curves up. This will give the belly pan a firm anchor along the frame line and should make fitting that piece a little easier.

I have all new sheets for the belly, new c-channel and plywood for the deck. Also, I picked up 3 gallons of epoxy resin from AeroMarine in San Diego, they're a large supplier to boat builders and the price for 3 gallons was just a bit more than 1 gallon of other brands.

I plan to sand out some of the runs on the silver (aluminum) paint and put on another coat or two. That stuff is very thin.

With any luck the shell will be back on by the end of Memorial day weekend.

dbj216 · 05-08-2015, 03:59 PM

Looking good. I like the little piece you added for the rear corner belly aluminum attachment. I did not do this, and mine flap around unattached. I had difficulty making these rear corner pieces fit. Mine are kinda wavy. But like Panama Red says, if someone gets on their hands and knees to inspect your work on the belly pan, give them a swift kick in the rear!

Did someone form your new c-channel material for you? Many folks cut pie shaped pieces out of it so it will make an inside radius. I read some of the newer trailers have "F" shaped channels that actually cover the sub floor edge helping to keep it from getting soaked.

David

shilgemann · 05-10-2015, 10:59 AM

David,

I couldn't find any shops locally to fabricate the floor channel, they all said it takes special dies to do it without twisting/kinking the aluminum. I'll be using 1.5x1x1/8 c-channel and doing the notch/bend method. The channel is much sturdier than the original.

I've seen the other floor channel that covers the edge of the floor. They sell it here: Floor Channel Bow - Narrow Body104463 [104463] - $58.95 : Out-of-Doors Mart!, More Airstream Parts on-line than anyone! but I've been told that this would not fit on my floor without some cutting. It was a consideration though. This seems like a better option if it's workable.

I am mocking up the tank placement and have the floor pieces cut to fit. I'll be welding in the tank supports today and hope to have the floor epoxied today as well. The floor pieces are a bit of a jigsaw puzzle. You would think that you would just use full width sheets of plywood but that only happens in a few spots. The factory used scrap pieces to connect the sheets together. The cross members where these joints are made are 5/8 inch lower than the rest, so this is where the seams are. There are two floor panels that are less than 48" to make this work out. I will be using the epoxy resin as the adhesive to join the sheets together and will use 1" stainless deck screws to hold the everything in place until the epoxy cures. I picked up some 6oz e-glass woven cloth that I will use on the top deck, this should add a little extra strength to the floor and will definitely keep it from ever having a water issue in the future. I think the whole deck construction will take the better part of two days to get done between fitting and epoxy cure times. Once the resin has cured (24 hours) I'll drill the elevator bolt holes, use a forstner bit for the head depths and bolt the floor down.

I also have to get the wheel wells cleaned and painted (POR-15) today so they can go in under the floor pieces. I will be dry-fitting everything before committing to the epoxy.

The goal is to have the shell back on by next weekend so I can start work on the interior and installing the systems (water, electrical, AC and furnace).

Here is from yesterday, I'll post an update of today's progress later this evening.

dbj216 · 05-10-2015, 05:58 PM

You're really going at it! Thanks for the link on the C channel from Out of Doors Mart. That's the first time I've seen the cross section. Your .125 thick C channel will be more robust than the factory's. And your subfloor is certainly going to be water resistant. My subfloor is like yours, with the plywood splices at the joints. I had a splice where I elected to mount my black water tank, and had to add a piece to provide an even surface to clamp the tank snug. I put a sheet of rubber 3/16" thick for the tanks to rub against to help reduce abrasion.

My waste water tanks are similar to yours. I hung them with angle iron and bolts through the frame rails.

What took me a month is taking you a week. I find the re-assembly took much longer than the teardown as a guy might expect.

David

shilgemann · 05-19-2015, 08:00 PM

A quick update. I'm thinking I should just start a new thread in the restoration section?

Anyway, a few quick pics and updates. When I mounted the wiring box for the trailer lights I used rivet nuts to install it. I think these things may have multiple uses throughout a project. Mounting cabinet supports, anchoring whatever.... I ordered a bunch in the different sizes available at VTS.

shilgemann · 05-19-2015, 08:09 PM

I also finished getting the deck on today. It received a coat of epoxy resin and a layer of 6oz e-glass woven cloth. After it fully cured I drilled the holes for the elevator bolts and attached the floor. I used a forstner bit to countersink the bolts just below the surface. I know that some say you can just tighten them up and they'll basically level themselves, but I didn't want to crack the fiberglass and epoxy. I had a few high spots on the floor so I sanded them level and made sure there weren't any spots that could cause an issue with the final flooring. I then put one last coat of epoxy on to fill the counter sunk holes. Looks very shiny, almost a shame to cover it up.

I also bolted the floor channel in place. I made cuts every 3.25 inches along the curves. I used my 4 inch circular saw set at 5 deg and made two cut next to each other in opposite directions. Basically cut on my marked lines and then turned the piece around and cut from the other side. This made the cut a little wide at the top than near the edge. Not perfect but they came out halfway decent.

shilgemann · 05-19-2015, 08:18 PM

I'll finish wiring the brakes tomorrow and start installing the insulation under the floor and getting the belly pan on. I know that flipping the frame makes it easier to get the belly pan on, but I don't know if the time savings will be worth it. I will have to rig two more chain hoists and then figure out how to lift and rotate by myself. Not something I want to do alone in a shop.

I figure if the process takes me two hours to save two hours it's a wash on time. Since I'm using 4x8 sheets for the belly, they should be fairly easy to handle with some 1x2 bracing.

Debating on using rigid foam insulation or fiberglass for below the floor. I've seen pros and cons for both. Need to decide by tomorrow afternoon though. Any suggestions?

Here's a shot of the tanks in place. I have them in temporarily until I get final placement of toilet and shower figure out. I can drill the holes once I get that figured out. I will be able to have an access panel for the holding tanks the way I did this. The extension of the frame made a huge difference. I missed some spots underneath with the POR-15, I'll touch those up as I go.

dbj216 · 05-20-2015, 05:12 AM

First class job all the way. Your new c-channels fit around the curves very nicely. The subfloor bolts look perfect, and the deep frame fit the tanks nicely. There's just a ton of steps to rebuilding one of these old Airstreams.

I used ridged foam insulation under the subfloor on both the 66 Trade Wind and 86 Limited. The foam is water proof. And mice have a harder time with it. I made small drain holes in my belly pan so rain water can get out, and air can circulate a little bit down there. I think all Airstreams have a "wet basement" and we need to do what we can to let the water out.

David

thumbelinadj · 05-23-2015, 09:41 AM

When you get more weight on that chassis it gets very difficult to flip. You need help. Trust me. I have plenty of video and photos on my FB page you can see. You are doing great work. The epoxy and bi-directional fiberglass is a great decision. I did the same.

shilgemann · 05-26-2015, 08:52 PM

Put the belly pan on and lowered the shell onto the frame. I am having some issues with the shell and frame meeting up.

If I have the frame level, the back end is about an inch lower than it needs to be. I tried to raise the rear with a jack and it closes the gap, but my concern is will this create too much tension throughout the shell?

Short of unbolting the floor and reattaching it while the frame is under tension to raise the back end up, are there other options, or is this typical?