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Old 10-09-2012, 06:38 AM   #477
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Bummer on the door frame but good you jumped on the repair right away so you weren't looking at the crack for a long time! Inside skins going back in!! That's fun, are you replacing all the interior metal? That saves a lot of stripping time and not breathing in all the chemicals! You will be camping in the spring!!
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Old 10-09-2012, 09:34 AM   #478
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Bummer on the door frame but good you jumped on the repair right away so you weren't looking at the crack for a long time! Inside skins going back in!! That's fun, are you replacing all the interior metal? That saves a lot of stripping time and not breathing in all the chemicals! You will be camping in the spring!!
Ah tinman you have a lot of faith in my progress. Not sure I will be camping this spring at this rate. The door frames are crap at best. Unfortunatly heat from welding makes them tweak and pressure from closeing makes them break. I think I got it this time (hope). Yes I am putting in all new metal in the interior. Expensive yes but the walls that were in before were a mess.
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Old 10-09-2012, 12:46 PM   #479
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Sorry to hear about the door, i am re skinning mine at the moment it looks as though the top curve has been welded onto mine unless that's standard?, I got the aluminium strips welded across it to give it strength around the lockset, i hope i don't get problems with it! , re cladding the walls must be a great feeling, my next step is cutting a serving hatch, I will take a few photos and update my thread tomorrow!
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Old 10-09-2012, 12:53 PM   #480
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Persistence over pain!

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Minor set back # 1007 door frame broke again! Arrrrgggggg!! So I tore the door down to the frame again, had my welder repair the crack again. There must have been some stress on the frame that cracked it. So this time after I got the frame back I set it in the door way braced it with clamps and heated it with my blow torch. Then very carefully tighten the clamps til the door frame mached the curve of the trailer. I finished Bucking the outer skin to the frame today. While I was waiting for the frame to be welded I started on the inner skins so that I can figure out the outlets and switches.
Yet another example of persistence over pain and frustration! Love the photos to see your progress.
Sandy
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Old 10-09-2012, 10:49 PM   #481
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Sorry to hear about the door, i am re skinning mine at the moment it looks as though the top curve has been welded onto mine unless that's standard?, I got the aluminium strips welded across it to give it strength around the lockset, i hope i don't get problems with it! , re cladding the walls must be a great feeling, my next step is cutting a serving hatch, I will take a few photos and update my thread tomorrow!
Usually the door frame is welded togeather from a couple pieces, so yes it is normal. I also added some aluminum angle to beef up the lock area of the frame. Cant wait to see your progress!!

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Yet another example of persistence over pain and frustration! Love the photos to see your progress.
Sandy
Thanks Sandy. Got the door back on today I hope that is the last time I do that!!
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Old 10-15-2012, 12:59 AM   #482
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I go away from the forums for a month and come back and you're not done yet?

We need to see that thing rolling to rallies in SoCal soon...

Maybe once I ever get around to building my drawers and finishing my cabinets, I'll come up there and lend a hand. I suppose it's the least I can do after badgering you like this.
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Old 10-16-2012, 10:23 AM   #483
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I go away from the forums for a month and come back and you're not done yet?

We need to see that thing rolling to rallies in SoCal soon...

Maybe once I ever get around to building my drawers and finishing my cabinets, I'll come up there and lend a hand. I suppose it's the least I can do after badgering you like this.
I know!! You would think I would be done with the electrical, inner skins, lighting, plummbing, LP, Appliances, tanks, brake lines, interior, not to mention polishing....um yeah. I have a bit more to do. If I do any camping in my rig it will be just a metal tent. Oh well.... if you come up BRING BEER!!
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Old 10-16-2012, 08:59 PM   #484
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like a DC fridge, 14ga ain't gonna cut it. So the point is to plan your DC loads and wire accordingly.
Do many people really use DC to cool the fridge? I know we almost all use it for controls, but I haven't actually seen much about refers that use 12VDC to cool.

14 gauge is fine for the control circuits.
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Old 10-17-2012, 01:50 PM   #485
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If I recall, the 3-way version of my fridge (Dometic RM2351B) had a section about 12 gauge wiring. They require 14ga for controls and 10ga minimum for power. However, they had a section about calcamacating the line losses and this size was only ok for up to 6 or 8 feet, with 8 gauge recommended for something like 12-15 foot runs. Anything less will void the mfr warranty. Anyway, I didn't want to install enough batteries to run the thing on 12 V, so I had the 2way version. Propane power is awesome... :-)
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Old 10-17-2012, 02:03 PM   #486
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Anyway, I didn't want to install enough batteries to run the thing on 12 V, so I had the 2way version. Propane power is awesome... :-)
That's the point, isn't it? I mean, I don't know how much current a 12VDC refer would draw, but it's going to be a lot more than a 12V light bulb, isn't it?

The ONLY instance I could see where using 12VDC would make sense is when towing. The blue charge line could handle enough current from the TV to keep the refer operating, for those who are squeamish about travelling with LP keeping it chilled.

Otherwise, you would need a sea of batteries to be able to wilderness camp...
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Old 10-17-2012, 05:52 PM   #487
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That's the point, isn't it? I mean, I don't know how much current a 12VDC refer would draw, but it's going to be a lot more than a 12V light bulb, isn't it?

The ONLY instance I could see where using 12VDC would make sense is when towing. The blue charge line could handle enough current from the TV to keep the refer operating, for those who are squeamish about travelling with LP keeping it chilled.

Otherwise, you would need a sea of batteries to be able to wilderness camp...
Yeah, I imagine the only way it's remotely plausible without a giant bank would be to initially cool the fridge on propane or 110V and only switch to 12V after already being cold. Otherwise I envision stiffening the frame for the battery acid sea and lead plate forest that you would be installing.
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Old 10-17-2012, 05:57 PM   #488
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Maybe off on a tangent a bit, but the Isotherm fridge in my Overlander is 12V and 110, I used 12G for both lines, as it barely uses any power its another option. I'll be installing a similar but larger unit in the Sovereign for sure.
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Old 10-17-2012, 07:50 PM   #489
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That's the point, isn't it? I mean, I don't know how much current a 12VDC refer would draw, but it's going to be a lot more than a 12V light bulb, isn't it?

The ONLY instance I could see where using 12VDC would make sense is when towing. The blue charge line could handle enough current from the TV to keep the refer operating, for those who are squeamish about travelling with LP keeping it chilled.

Otherwise, you would need a sea of batteries to be able to wilderness camp...
Nice delayed responce Aage. For a second I had no idea what you guys were talking about but now I see.The 12 v fridge was never an option for me. LP 2 way seems to be the way to go. The 14 ga is for the led lights fans and other dc items. Nothing that will draw big power.
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Old 12-31-2012, 06:05 PM   #490
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Hey Marzboy.......good to see you're still working on your AS .....makes our 2.5 year effort seem normal . hey, are you going to the Modernism Week Vintage Trailer Show in Palm Springs in February? I'm producing the show, along with my friend & biz partner Christy, and would love to see you. Another bringing the '69....nor the
Bubble (she's not ready for her debut quite yet) but will probably bring another little cutie for the Retail Vendor portion.

All the best in the New Year!!
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