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Old 05-13-2012, 10:39 PM   #43
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1964 17' Bambi II
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Looks like clear coat to me. Get a can of aircraft stripper from Auto Zone & spray it on. It'll take it off immediately. Just don't get it on any plastics. It'll eat it up!
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Old 05-14-2012, 01:14 AM   #44
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1959 17' Pacer
Long Beach , California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by REDSLED88 View Post
I'm continuing the stripping of the interior... I'm about 3/4 done with Zolatone removal, but it will need alot more work (including a light polish) before I remove the interior panels.
Looking good man. I think its a good idea to do a basic polish before you pull out the panels. I was in a rush on the demo because I really wanted to pull out the floor and see the condition of the full frame, but the first compounding step makes such a mess that it would have been much easier to do it that way. And the Zolatone is no small task either....There's light at the end of the tunnel, I promise!

Quote:
Originally Posted by REDSLED88 View Post
Peter, did you use the 3M SR Bristle Discs on the interior to remove zolatone around the windows?
I did not. I used lots of plastic scrapers, and I should have bought more. I bought them regularly at Walmart and tried to use them when they got dull and chipped, when I should have just gotten new ones. I also used heavy duty scrub brushes with nylon bristles, but nothing stronger than that. For the actual window trim pieces, once I removed them and laid them out, I used a combination of those other tools I mentioned as well as successively finer grades of sandpaper from 150 to ~800, followed by polishing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by REDSLED88 View Post
All the roof vents are cleaned and ready for compounding.
However, the refer vent collar was installed with 1/8" pop rivets.... Should I re-install with 1/8" pop rivets, or upsize to 5/32" and buck and be done with it? I'm afraid I may want to remove later, and am wondering if I should use the pop rivets for easy removal later?
I would go with buck rivets unless you are positive you will be removing it in the next year. It's better than forgetting about it or regretting not doing it later. Bucking is just so much more secure and sealed well when done properly.
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Old 06-06-2012, 03:03 PM   #45
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1965 20' Globetrotter
Jackson , California
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More Progress

So, I've been under my A.A.D.D. (Airstream Attention Deficit Disorder) lately, and have been rotating many tasks.
I have decided to work top down, since I have scaffolding from my neighbor, so I began polishing the roof, and also have ordered 2024T3x.032 for the roof patch to install the Fantastic Vent in place of the escape hatch.

I did make a new refrig. vent collar. Just need to rivet with 1/8" 470AD4-X rivets and re-install.
Making more headway on the interior Zolatone removal, but not quite finished.

And to top it off, a co-worker of mine hooked me up with some Cat Batteriers for the 12V DC system. Not sure if these are overkill, but they were free.

BTW.....
her name is betty
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Old 08-14-2012, 09:26 PM   #46
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1965 20' Globetrotter
Jackson , California
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Back At It

So, I've been off for knee surgery for 6 weeks, 4 more weeks to go.
But in the meantime I've found someone interested in working on the trailer.
So far we have removed all the interior panels after stripping.
I found that after using Kleen Strrip aircraft stripper, I then used a plastic lufa style dish sponge dipped in Mineral spirits to take off the last layer and bits.
Seemed to work well... it only took me 3/4 of the way to come up with that last bit. I never did get to polishing (like Peter) I was in a hurry to just get through it.

Anywho, all interior panels are removed, old glass insulation removed, all wiring removed, and I have also took off the curbside corner panel for replacement (good thing, because the fiberglass endcaps wouldn't come out the door)

I have also removed the belly pan (what a PITA!!!!), but still need to do some more work under there.

At this point I have approx. 30 hours of compounding on the roof, which I wanted to get done before I didn't have anymore scaffolding. It's going by by for 2 1/2 months.... oh well.

Here are some pics for your enjoyment (although I'm still not even quite half way with the resto).
Thanks in advance,
TIMK
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Old 08-16-2012, 04:00 PM   #47
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Looking awesome!!!
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Old 09-09-2012, 07:56 PM   #48
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1965 20' Globetrotter
Jackson , California
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End Caps out the door

Ok, so does anyone know if you can fit your interior fiberglass endcaps from a '65 out through the door?

The reason I ask is I took mine out the curbside lower corner panel that was removed (thus there is a much larger hole to exit them),
but now they are stored away and I don't want to try and put the endcaps back in, or at least try without asking.

I need to install my corner panel and don't want to get stuck with my endcaps on the outside.

TIMK
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Old 10-01-2012, 11:28 PM   #49
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1965 20' Globetrotter
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Interior endcaps out door

Ok, so I've cut the corner panel, drill out ( went through 4 bits), and attempted first dry fit.
Needed to remove old caulking and *&%$# silcone on the inside first.
Thanks PO for that one! Actually it wasn't too bad.
Now I just need to find out a couple things.

1) Can you get interior endcaps through the door on a '65?

2) Can anyone come and buck rivets... I can't really find anyone I trust (LOL)
maybe I'm just being too picky.

So my next move with be to pull the plastic scratch cover on the sheet, deburr, and attempt a final dry fit.

After that I would assume I would go row by row, pulling all the clecos on one side, running a bead of sealant on that side, then re-install clecos, then go right to bucking (dipping rivet in sealant for good luck, as BARTS says). I would think a row by row (left side, top, right side and bottom), in that order would be a good plan.

Or does everyone just get all sloppy and try to run and bead and then fit it in, then cleco, then start riveting?

TIMK
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Old 10-02-2012, 08:20 AM   #50
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We were able to get the end caps through the door of our '65 Overlander (26'), so I'm hoping it will work for you as well.

It took two people to steady and maneuver so we didn't crack them, and we had the window cut out facing down and toward the rear of the trailer so we could make the turn. We used the window cut out as a pivot point (if that makes any sense) by keeping it in the doorway until the person in the trailer could turn the end cap enough to clear the wheel wells.

I haven't gotten to riveting yet (we're only at the frame grinding and repair stage) so good luck and let us know what you figure out!
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Old 10-02-2012, 07:28 PM   #51
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Endcap through door

Thanks KristinS, I will try and see if I can get them in there.

TIMK
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Old 05-16-2013, 07:22 PM   #52
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1965 20' Globetrotter
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What size axil does yours have? Did you replace yours? Any updated photos?
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Old 01-25-2015, 11:28 PM   #53
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1965 20' Globetrotter
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Finally, back at it!

Well, it's been almost 2 years since I worked on the trailer.
I finally put the curbside front lower corner panel back in, everything came out ok, but had to use a couple of 3/16 'A' rivets to fill some big holes.

We bought a house, and that put the airstream on the back burner, but now I'm ready.

This weekend I finished putting in the roof patch for new Fantastic Vent, shot it all in, went perfect, and was actually surprised at the work ( I think Kip would be proud).

Here are some picks of new 14"x14" hole in roof patch. Went a little overkill with the spacing on the rivets, but it'l hold.
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Old 01-25-2015, 11:36 PM   #54
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Sorry Swimhard, I have not changed my axel yet, but when I do I suspect I be using Colin Hyde.

My next move is putting back in all roof vents to protect from rain, so as to check for leaks.

The Stove Vent has 7 holes in it for replacement, but there are about 13 in the skin. I'm assuming they replaced it, and just put in new holes.

Does anybody know if the vent fan is riveted to the outside shell?
And Do I need to put that back in before I put on the vent, or does the fan just pop in the hole? I'd hate to shoot on the vent fan, and then have to remove later.
Thinking of using 8-32 stainless screws with stop nuts for the time being until I find out.

TIMK
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Old 01-26-2015, 12:18 AM   #55
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So happy to connect with you! The vent fan on mine was riveted so close to the rib on the back I had to access it from the roof to remove it.
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Old 01-26-2015, 08:53 PM   #56
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So the fan mount was actually riveted to the outside, not just the Stove exhaust vent cover?
I guess that's why there are more holes in the trailer than on the cover.

You see, I literally had nothing except a shell when I bought it, no cabinets, no appliances, nothing..... So I'm having to peace it back toghether.

Thanks for the info, let me know if you need any help on anything,

TIMK
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