Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 04-09-2012, 05:49 PM   #15
(-1 Rivet_
 
REDSLED88's Avatar
 
1965 20' Globetrotter
Jackson , California
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 175
Oh yeah and....

Quote:
Originally Posted by worldinchaos View Post
Sorry, I meant to keep the actual foil off of the outer shell if at all possible. I adhered the R-max foam strips to the exterior shell, then the bubble foil insulation to the foam strips, so that any leaks will run down through the segmented styrafoam sections, through little weep channels that I cut in each one, and then do the C-channel area where the floor has three coats of resin and two to three of linear polyurethane so that it hopefully won't absorb right away. My theory there was that I wanted to actually see any leaks, and figure out where they were coming from rather than letting the water run along the insulation into weird and possibly hidden places. However, this is all just my opinion and not at all scientifically proven....

Additionally, it's a minor item, but make sure you add TONS of rags to your list for cleaning up vulkem and wiping off polish (mineral spirits applicators). I would also buy way more rivets than you think you'll need. You can always save them for later, but I must have done 2 repeated orders of bucked rivets, 4 or so different orders of Olympics, and I've probably dashed over to big box stores for pop rivets 2-3 times as well.
Sure, rivets would help. Plus I almost forgot Cleco's and cleco pliers.
That would help. Did you find that sometimes when you went to install your interior, that if you installed say a 1/8" pop rivet and it was sloppy you would replace with a 5/32" to fill the hole?
Did you use stainless 3/16" pop rivets to hang your overhead cabinet (looks awesome by the way, didn't know the overhead cabinet was aluminum, came out SWEET polished)?

Rags, rags, rags, where are those rags, oh yeah I'm out of gym socks, and no more left over tee-shirts, sweatshirts, old pants, so definetly need more.

Thanks Chaos!

TIMK
__________________

__________________
Thanks in advance!

TAC CA-77
REDSLED88 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-09-2012, 11:01 PM   #16
(-1 Rivet_
 
REDSLED88's Avatar
 
1965 20' Globetrotter
Jackson , California
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 175
Makes sense now!

Quote:
Originally Posted by worldinchaos View Post
Sorry, I meant to keep the actual foil off of the outer shell if at all possible. I adhered the R-max foam strips to the exterior shell, then the bubble foil insulation to the foam strips, so that any leaks will run down through the segmented styrafoam sections, through little weep channels that I cut in each one, and then do the C-channel area where the floor has three coats of resin and two to three of linear polyurethane so that it hopefully won't absorb right away. My theory there was that I wanted to actually see any leaks, and figure out where they were coming from rather than letting the water run along the insulation into weird and possibly hidden places. However, this is all just my opinion and not at all scientifically proven....

Additionally, it's a minor item, but make sure you add TONS of rags to your list for cleaning up vulkem and wiping off polish (mineral spirits applicators). I would also buy way more rivets than you think you'll need. You can always save them for later, but I must have done 2 repeated orders of bucked rivets, 4 or so different orders of Olympics, and I've probably dashed over to big box stores for pop rivets 2-3 times as well.
Ahhh, that makes sense now... I think I just needed a little clarification.
TIMK
__________________

__________________
Thanks in advance!

TAC CA-77
REDSLED88 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2012, 12:18 AM   #17
Rivet Master
 
worldinchaos's Avatar
 
1959 17' Pacer
Long Beach , California
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 920
Quote:
Originally Posted by REDSLED88 View Post
Sure, rivets would help. Plus I almost forgot Cleco's and cleco pliers.
That would help. Did you find that sometimes when you went to install your interior, that if you installed say a 1/8" pop rivet and it was sloppy you would replace with a 5/32" to fill the hole?
Did you use stainless 3/16" pop rivets to hang your overhead cabinet (looks awesome by the way, didn't know the overhead cabinet was aluminum, came out SWEET polished)?

Rags, rags, rags, where are those rags, oh yeah I'm out of gym socks, and no more left over tee-shirts, sweatshirts, old pants, so definetly need more.

Thanks Chaos!

TIMK
Yeah, definitely lots of 1/8" getting filled with 5/32". Especially on the places that didn't have any rib support backing it up. I didn't have to use any 3/16" SS rivets on the cabinet. I just reattached as I found it. GIven how much stuff was in there with the original fasteners, and how little of stuff I plan to put in there, I'm not too concerned about needing more support for weight. I did have to pull quite a few wide flange 3/16" aluminum rivets that I used on the belly pan. ALL of those had pulled through the pan and had to be drilled out, so wide flanges had to be used on all of them.

- Peter
__________________
- Peter (and Marie)
TAC CA-15

1959 Pacer 18' Renovation - Knight in Shining Armor

Our Adventure Blog - Documenting our backpacking, hiking, camping, and Airstreaming
(still updating, haven't gotten to the Airstream trips yet)
worldinchaos is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2012, 01:18 PM   #18
Tool Hoarder
 
Currently Looking...
West , California
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 907
Images: 3
Quote:
Originally Posted by REDSLED88 View Post
Ok, so I've given in... here is my list of things to buy to start this, tell me if I'm missing something for the first 3-6 months of work. (BTW, I do have a pretty good assortment of tools, including air compressors, just about every hand tool, grinders, drills, air drill, multi tool, sawall and what not, but anywho.

1) Pnuematic buck rivet gun (probably going with kit from VTS)
2) Blind rivet tool (again probably just getting from VTS so I can get the olympic shaver)
3) Trempro 635
4) Aircraft stripper
5) organic vapor respirator (3M)
6) 3000 RPM angle grinder (using Insideouts/perfect polish method for polishing with 12" cotton wheels from caswell and/or osbourne from fastenal
7) #30,#21 &#10 drill bit (already have)
8) Gallons? of mineral spirits

This should get me going to get the floor out, strip the outside so I can polish the seems and seal, and remove all interior panels to replace the insulations and check for roof leaks.

Now, will that said, is there anything I should pick up that may be "handy" down the road.

Mind you, I will be learning and researching as I go.


Thanks in advance,

TIMK
I think you have it all pretty much. Just stock up on drill bits and rivets you will need more than you think!
Caswell is the place for your polishing stuff, the tec at Inland Rv told me about that place. Good luck and we will be learning from eachother.
__________________
marzboy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-13-2012, 11:15 PM   #19
(-1 Rivet_
 
REDSLED88's Avatar
 
1965 20' Globetrotter
Jackson , California
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 175
Slow Going

Well, it's been raining for 4 days, and some amazing Lightning last night.
Kirkwood got dumped on, so I let my wife go for the day and I get Sunday to play.
After 4 days of studying during the rains, I finally found an RV place an hour away (Vintage Transport in Placerville, Ca)
So, I'm taking the kids and were loading up on supplies.

I did finally find some Kleen Strip Aircraft Paint Remover (took about 3 days, but worth it at $60..... O'reilly's wants $134/gallon for the low odor kind... no way I'm paying that)

I'm also ordering some vent caps from Mobile Home Depot, found a thread where they have all aluminum caps for grey/black/drain vents.
Should be nice.

I did want to pick somones brain on some things... here goes!

1) When installing an exterior panel, and you use trempro 635 to seal, how long do you wait before removing the excess sealant? Do you wait for it to tack up, or just remove immediatly after installing panel? Are you using Naptha to remove?
or will something else like mineral spirits work?

2) Has anyone ever thought of putting in tiny little drip holes in the bottom of the C-channel attaching shell to floor with say a tube extending below the floor, so if you did have a leak it would eventually flow to the drip tube and drain out? Maybe put one in each interior panel section Lower floor C-chanel or two?

3) Has anyone ever driven their coach with no interior panels?
If so how far, and how fast were you going?

4) Is anyone using a silcone style adhesive on top of the frame (AFTER POR 15) between the floor sheeting and the frame to reduce "squeaking"?

That's all for now,
See ya'll on Sunday with good weather and finally some pics!!

Thanks in Advance,

TIMK
__________________
Thanks in advance!

TAC CA-77
REDSLED88 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-14-2012, 12:00 AM   #20
Top
Always learning
 
Top's Avatar
 
1972 29' Ambassador
1962 19' Globetrotter
1951 21' Flying Cloud
Central , Texas
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,779
Images: 24
Blog Entries: 2
Send a message via Yahoo to Top
1) Use Trempro/Vulkem 116 from Fastenal for panel seams. It is a slow cure sealant. You need time with panel whorl
2) Yes. I did it a little differently with some 5/32" holes then tape up the bottom and fill with West epoxy, let cure then drill out with an 1/8" drill bit.
3)No. Not a good idea.
4)I only use silicone in one area, but not there. I used a thin layer of 3M 540 polyurethane sealant on the top of the frame/crossmembers/outriggers before the floor sheets went in on my '72 Ambassador.

Good luck with the work this weekend! Post more pics!
__________________
Lance

Work is never done, so take time to play!
Top is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2012, 10:25 AM   #21
(-1 Rivet_
 
REDSLED88's Avatar
 
1965 20' Globetrotter
Jackson , California
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 175
Thanks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Top View Post
1) Use Trempro/Vulkem 116 from Fastenal for panel seams. It is a slow cure sealant. You need time with panel whorl
2) Yes. I did it a little differently with some 5/32" holes then tape up the bottom and fill with West epoxy, let cure then drill out with an 1/8" drill bit.
3)No. Not a good idea.
4)I only use silicone in one area, but not there. I used a thin layer of 3M 540 polyurethane sealant on the top of the frame/crossmembers/outriggers before the floor sheets went in on my '72 Ambassador.

Good luck with the work this weekend! Post more pics!
Ahh, this is good....

1) Response.... Do you remove the Trempro/Vulken 116 after it's tack, say the next day, or right after you have completed the rivet install while it's still wet?
And is Naptha the preferred removal agent for Trempro/Vulkem 116?

2) I like the idea of filling with Epoxy then drilling out, so that the hole is actually sealed.... Freakin GENIUS! Check!

3) Ok, won't drive with interior skins removed ... Check!

4) Polyurethane Sealant on top of frame/below floor to reduce squeak... Check!

Thanks Top, feel honored to have your resonse(s)

See below, pics on next response

TIMK
__________________
Thanks in advance!

TAC CA-77
REDSLED88 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2012, 10:56 PM   #22
Top
Always learning
 
Top's Avatar
 
1972 29' Ambassador
1962 19' Globetrotter
1951 21' Flying Cloud
Central , Texas
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,779
Images: 24
Blog Entries: 2
Send a message via Yahoo to Top
You are very welcome.

After you are done riveting, take a clean rag dampened with mineral spirits and wipe off the squeeze out and everywhere else you'll manage to get it. It will be everywhere. It comes off very well with mineral spirits while the sealant is still wet.
__________________
Lance

Work is never done, so take time to play!
Top is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-17-2012, 08:23 AM   #23
(-1 Rivet_
 
REDSLED88's Avatar
 
1965 20' Globetrotter
Jackson , California
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 175
Finally pics

Perfect..... I've got LOTS of mineral spirits.
Thanks TOP!

Finally got some pics posted.... AARRGGGHHH, I hate computers!

Anyway, I'm stripping the interior, I used Kleen Strip Aircrapt Paint Stripper, 3 TIMES leaving for about 20-30 minutes, then I applied a layer of Citristrip gel for a day. I've removed almost all the paint, but the interior aluminum still has a "pitting"..... hopefully it will polish out.
Tools of choice were a plastic bondo spreader and a plastic dish pan scrubber. All in all, panels look good.

Enjoy!

TIMK
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Picture 002.jpg
Views:	122
Size:	205.6 KB
ID:	156047   Click image for larger version

Name:	Picture 008.jpg
Views:	137
Size:	322.7 KB
ID:	156048  

Click image for larger version

Name:	Picture 040.jpg
Views:	141
Size:	266.1 KB
ID:	156049   Click image for larger version

Name:	Picture 041.jpg
Views:	133
Size:	294.6 KB
ID:	156050  

__________________
Thanks in advance!

TAC CA-77
REDSLED88 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-17-2012, 08:27 AM   #24
(-1 Rivet_
 
REDSLED88's Avatar
 
1965 20' Globetrotter
Jackson , California
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 175
Wheel Well covers

Also, here are some pics of fiberglass wheel well covers..... they broke in a couple of spots.
Any suggestions for repair/replace?

Thanks in advance,
TIMK
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Picture 042.jpg
Views:	137
Size:	246.8 KB
ID:	156052   Click image for larger version

Name:	Picture 052.jpg
Views:	136
Size:	186.1 KB
ID:	156053  

__________________
Thanks in advance!

TAC CA-77
REDSLED88 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-17-2012, 11:15 AM   #25
Rivet Master
 
worldinchaos's Avatar
 
1959 17' Pacer
Long Beach , California
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 920
Quote:
Originally Posted by REDSLED88 View Post
Perfect..... I've got LOTS of mineral spirits.
Thanks TOP!

Finally got some pics posted.... AARRGGGHHH, I hate computers!

Anyway, I'm stripping the interior, I used Kleen Strip Aircrapt Paint Stripper, 3 TIMES leaving for about 20-30 minutes, then I applied a layer of Citristrip gel for a day. I've removed almost all the paint, but the interior aluminum still has a "pitting"..... hopefully it will polish out.
Tools of choice were a plastic bondo spreader and a plastic dish pan scrubber. All in all, panels look good.

Enjoy!

TIMK
She looks good! Nice job--and I had the same pitting in places, which seemed to look like small spots of filliform corrosion that had snuck under the Zolatone. I'm not gonna say my panels ever got looking brand new, but I probably got rid of 95% of it. The few panels where I let it remain are either hidden behind cabinetry most of the time or are in spots with very low lighting.

Keep it up, because you sure got through that phase faster than most.
__________________
- Peter (and Marie)
TAC CA-15

1959 Pacer 18' Renovation - Knight in Shining Armor

Our Adventure Blog - Documenting our backpacking, hiking, camping, and Airstreaming
(still updating, haven't gotten to the Airstream trips yet)
worldinchaos is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-19-2012, 06:02 PM   #26
(-1 Rivet_
 
REDSLED88's Avatar
 
1965 20' Globetrotter
Jackson , California
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 175
Yes, filiform corrosion

Yep, looks like filiform corrosion..... what's a good method for removal?

Will just starting the compounding process take care of it?

BTW, I ordered 3 more gallons of aircraft stripper, since I need to do the outside plasticoat at some point also.

More work this weekend!

Thanks in advance,
TIMK
__________________
Thanks in advance!

TAC CA-77
REDSLED88 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-19-2012, 06:30 PM   #27
Rivet Master
 
worldinchaos's Avatar
 
1959 17' Pacer
Long Beach , California
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 920
Quote:
Originally Posted by REDSLED88 View Post
Yep, looks like filiform corrosion..... what's a good method for removal?

Will just starting the compounding process take care of it?

BTW, I ordered 3 more gallons of aircraft stripper, since I need to do the outside plasticoat at some point also.

More work this weekend!

Thanks in advance,
TIMK
Yeah, I just compounded the heck out of the spots I had. There may be better methods, but this was also on the interior, where I didn't want a perfect mirror shine anyway. I left some small thin scratches behind which "hid" the leftover remnants of filliform.

Do a search on here and you'll find lots of threads talking about the best methods. It commonly occurs on the exterior, underneath failing clear coats..
__________________
- Peter (and Marie)
TAC CA-15

1959 Pacer 18' Renovation - Knight in Shining Armor

Our Adventure Blog - Documenting our backpacking, hiking, camping, and Airstreaming
(still updating, haven't gotten to the Airstream trips yet)
worldinchaos is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-19-2012, 09:43 PM   #28
(-1 Rivet_
 
REDSLED88's Avatar
 
1965 20' Globetrotter
Jackson , California
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 175
Ok

Thanks, I'll try it.
That's funny you were talking about the California Coast., That's where I just picked up my '58 Traveler (In Crescent City by the way).

Thanks in advance,
TIMK
__________________

__________________
Thanks in advance!

TAC CA-77
REDSLED88 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
1965


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
1959 Overlander Restoration 65CV 1960 - 1964 Overlander 545 10-18-2017 08:36 AM
Photos of Safari 1954 restoration safari 1954 1954 Safari 81 08-14-2012 07:01 PM
1965 Streamline Duke - INFO REQUESTED LarryGlover Vintage Kin 14 06-20-2012 09:56 AM
Looking for advice on possible purchase chiefbrody 1975 Overlander 12 04-09-2012 09:12 PM
Local Restoration Businesses mncate Interior Restoration Forum 12 04-05-2012 12:13 AM


Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 05:09 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.