Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 12-09-2009, 09:23 AM   #1
Confused in Bham
 
1964 24' Tradewind
Bellingham , Washington
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 22
1964 Tradewind - 24' - Renovation help

Well. I am 5 weeks into owning Jack. A 24' 1964 Airstream Tradewind.
Click image for larger version

Name:	Name Plate.jpg
Views:	267
Size:	294.8 KB
ID:	92318Click image for larger version

Name:	FrontOutsideFirstday.jpg
Views:	1237
Size:	359.4 KB
ID:	92317.

The forums have been a considerable help as I have never attempted a project such as this before. I'll be back posting about our experience from the beginning, but I have come to point in the renovation that I cannot get past and have not found the answer; removing the floor.
I guess I'll begin with what my plan is. To replace all systems, the floor, and rebuild Jack so that he will have another 45 years of travels in him. We will be placing a bed in the back, with toilet on one side (middle), and shower on the other. Will be towing with a Tacoma and will make as light as possible.

I own an outdoor clothing company and hope to go on the road with the setup, visiting festivals, races, events and the like while enjoying the travels.
The floor has the usual challenges. Totally rotten on both ends, with the middle bad enough that entire replacement is a good decision (I think).

Right now we have taken the inner skin off to the window height, and last night I began grinding off the elevator bolts in the front end. Ironically the phillips head screws are giving me problems than the bolts are. My concern at this point is:
How do I get the floor out from under the C-Channel?
Cut multiple pieces, and try to save the curves for a template?
Would a SawsAll work under the channel to seperate the screws? or is drilling out a better option. The 3" Grinder wheel is not able to get through the screw before it cuts into the channel.
What is the best way to cut the final wood under the C-Channel to finally remove?

and more importantly, how do I get full sheets of flooring back under? (would like to not drop the belly if possible)
__________________

__________________
beyond is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-09-2009, 09:29 AM   #2
Rivet Master
Airstream Dealer
 
Inland RV Center, In's Avatar
 
Corona , California
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 16,499
Images: 1
Quote:
Originally Posted by beyond View Post
Well. I am 5 weeks into owning Jack. A 24' 1964 Airstream Tradewind.
Attachment 92318Attachment 92317.

The forums have been a considerable help as I have never attempted a project such as this before. I'll be back posting about our experience from the beginning, but I have come to point in the renovation that I cannot get past and have not found the answer; removing the floor.
I guess I'll begin with what my plan is. To replace all systems, the floor, and rebuild Jack so that he will have another 45 years of travels in him. We will be placing a bed in the back, with toilet on one side (middle), and shower on the other. Will be towing with a Tacoma and will make as light as possible.

I own an outdoor clothing company and hope to go on the road with the setup, visiting festivals, races, events and the like while enjoying the travels.
The floor has the usual challenges. Totally rotten on both ends, with the middle bad enough that entire replacement is a good decision (I think).

Right now we have taken the inner skin off to the window height, and last night I began grinding off the elevator bolts in the front end. Ironically the phillips head screws are giving me problems than the bolts are. My concern at this point is:
How do I get the floor out from under the C-Channel?
Cut multiple pieces, and try to save the curves for a template?
Would a SawsAll work under the channel to seperate the screws? or is drilling out a better option. The 3" Grinder wheel is not able to get through the screw before it cuts into the channel.
What is the best way to cut the final wood under the C-Channel to finally remove?

and more importantly, how do I get full sheets of flooring back under? (would like to not drop the belly if possible)

To properly replace the floor, the shell should be removed.

Scabbing the floor in, is not a good idea, as the floor is a part of the semi-monocoque construction.

Andy
__________________

__________________
Inland RV Center, In is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-09-2009, 10:59 AM   #3
1 Rivet Member
 
fatwgn's Avatar
 
1965 20' Globetrotter
Janesville , Wisconsin
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 13
Restoring same trailer

Hello beyond - I am currently renovating the same trailer - (64 tradewind)
I am doing a shell on floor replace - If you use a small skill saw set just so it cuts the floor and doesnt touch the frame you can cut around the whole thing leaving just a couple of inches to the U channel - use a hole saw without a bit and drill around the elevator bolt in the middle portion of the floor - then once the sawed out part of the floor is removed you can reach under the U channel and break off the elevator bolts that are in the U channel and pull them up and out - Then using a floor jack and a 4x4 along the top of inside the trailer you can take alittle pressure of the floor to get the remainder of the floor out from under the U channel - When replacing floor pieces the body should flex enough to get the whole piece in (again while supporting the body with floor jack and 4x4) I have not gotten that far but from what I have read on this forum and from what I have done on mine I do believe that It will flex enough with alittle work -- take alot of measurements side to side so you know what it all was from the start --- sounds like were going through the same thing at about the same time -- except we just got 15" of snow last night so that is going to slow my prosses a little -- drop me a PM and we could probably talk on the phone about the questions we both have --- This forum is great and has alot of trial and error info as well as pictures --- I refer to it at my house as the BIBLE
Thanks
Scott
__________________
fatwgn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-09-2009, 11:06 AM   #4
Vintage Alum. Enthusiast
 
flyfshr's Avatar

 
1959 24' Tradewind
Phoenix , Arizona
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: I currently do not own a 2nd Airstream
Posts: 4,319
Images: 40
If at all possible, use the old curved floor pieces as a template for the new ones. Label them appropriately and they should work quite well.

Good luck to both of you and I'm glad to see you are both doing this at the same time, on the same year trailers so you can bounce ideas off each other. Yes, the forums to the rescue again.

Brad
FF
__________________
4CU 2699 / AIR 10 / TAC AZ-1

I'm haunted by aluminum.
Charter Member of the 4 Corners Unit.
flyfshr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-09-2009, 12:02 PM   #5
Confused in Bham
 
1964 24' Tradewind
Bellingham , Washington
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 22
Floor removal - Shell On

Hey Scott (fatwgn),
Great ideas. Thanks much. How long do you think the 4x4 should be? Is one floor jack enough do you think? Probably in the middle? I take it, I'll be just jackin the frame up enough to keep it in place.
We are removing the inner skin to remove the coating. So I'll be placing the 4x4 to the ceiling of the skin frame itself.
Any thoughts on removing the screws that are in the U channel? My drill with phillips is not able to grab hold.

Below are photos of the front with a nice rectangular hole using the technique you mentioned to remove the floor. I was surprised to see the aluminum sheet below the insulation. Any thoughts on what it is for?
Click image for larger version

Name:	Front-Floor-Removal.gif
Views:	165
Size:	88.9 KB
ID:	92321
Name:   Front-Floor-Removal-Zoom.gif
Views: 1593
Size:  48.5 KB
-Scott
__________________
beyond is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-09-2009, 12:31 PM   #6
1 Rivet Member
 
fatwgn's Avatar
 
1965 20' Globetrotter
Janesville , Wisconsin
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 13
I have all of my inner skins removed (rewire and insulate) with all inner skins removed you can see all the shell supports very well - I am going to use one long enough to span at least 2-3 braces and use it close to the floor piece that I am replacing at that time - The jack in center of 2 braces and then the 4x4 spanning 2 braces and going to the 3rd brace above the piece I am replacing then move to the next piece and so on - I think that one jack is enough because your only doing one floor section at a time -- The screws just go into the plywood - my screws had a head on them that was for a flat blade screwdriver and stuck up far enough that i could just put a vise grip on them and pull them out if they didnt come out with the powerdriver -- I havent removed the front section of my floor yet
so I havent seen under it yet -
Thanks
Scott
__________________
fatwgn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-09-2009, 12:35 PM   #7
Rivet Master
Commercial Member
 
vinstream's Avatar
 
1962 19' Globetrotter
1963 19' Globetrotter
1961 19' Globetrotter
Wheat Ridge , Colorado
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 624
Images: 2
Quote:
Originally Posted by beyond View Post
Below are photos of the front with a nice rectangular hole using the technique you mentioned to remove the floor. I was surprised to see the aluminum sheet below the insulation. Any thoughts on what it is for?
That is the "belly pan!" unless your talking about something else?

The radius corner for your year trailer is 22." I would recommend that you run the ply- wood side to side, not front to back. line up the seams on the "c" channel cross members. Hope that helps!

Todd
__________________
www.VINSTREAM.com
Wheat Ridge, Colorado
WBCCI # 1962
Instagram #Vinstream
vinstream is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-09-2009, 01:03 PM   #8
Confused in Bham
 
1964 24' Tradewind
Bellingham , Washington
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 22
The aluminum in question is directly below the insulation. Holding it tight, and only spans the width of the trailer by about 80%, leaving a foot of blank space down to the belly pan on either side of about 12". I guess I'll find out as I use fatwgn's advice to remove the floor.
__________________
beyond is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-09-2009, 04:30 PM   #9
Confused in Bham
 
1964 24' Tradewind
Bellingham , Washington
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 22
Quote:
I would recommend that you run the ply- wood side to side, not front to back. line up the seams on the "c" channel cross members.
Thanks for the insight. Andy mentioned that the shell should come off. Do you know what is detrimental in doing it the way we are trying? What needs to be strengthened or what other challenges are there in doing it this way? Since will have seams, how will the seams be connected? I would like to have this be as strong as possible, and would like to have taken off the shell, but is impossible in the current location.
__________________
beyond is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-09-2009, 04:55 PM   #10
Rivet Master
 
Minno's Avatar

 
1972 31' Sovereign
Lexington , Minnesota
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 3,323
Not sure about a Tradewind, but on our Sovereign, the seams in the floor were reinforced underneath with a plywood splice that was held in place with glue and screws. The frame had a drop out in it that accomodates the splice. Maybe yours has that too? We did a frame on replacement of the floor, and the sides will flex enough to get the new floor in place under the c-channel, but we have a 31 ft so more room to flex too. We had to be careful not to drop the c-channel off the outriggers when we flexed it out or it was a bear to get brought back in place. The biggest challenge was figuring out how to get full sheets of plywood positioned to slide into the c-channel, but it was possible. I agree with Andy that a shell-off would be easier, but shell-on is doable. We put pieces of plywood on top of the outriggers and under the c channel when we had the floor out to maintain the sides in the correct alignment and not buckle the sides of the trailer. Chris also made a home-made comealong that slid into the c-channel side to side and we could then tighten the turnbuckle to pull the walls in to the proper width. It was a lifesaver for us! See our "Little Girl Refurb" thread for pictures of stuff.

Good luck! Kay
__________________
Minno is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-09-2009, 05:04 PM   #11
Rivet Master
 
68 TWind's Avatar
 
1968 24' Tradewind
Oxford, , Mississippi
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 1,420
I have a 68 TW that I replaced the floor in the back and around the door. Couple if tips. First make templates from luan plywood. Even with cardboard patterns it is very hard to get to right and the luan is light enough to handle easily and to "tweak" till you get the fit perfect. Then use is to cut the plywood. Unless you do a skin off, it is next to impossible to get one piece of plywood the wideth of the trailer installed. The curves and c-channel prevent it from going into position. I made a seam down one frame rail and secured it in two parts. Andy is correct in the need for tying it all together. I used extra fasteners down the frame rails and on the cross members. The self tapping screws from VTS are very handy as are the elevator head bolts. For extra protection on the wood I sealed all the outside edges, top and bottom in about 6 inches, with West System epoxy. Used two coats and do this after final fitting. This will prevent any moisture from attacking the edges and it will get wet, it at some point. I also put 3 coats of urethane spar varnish on both top and bottom. The would your are replacing rotted cause it got wet, the new would could will get wet at some time in the future so this is extra protection and didn't take but a couple of hours.
Finally, if you don't have one of those vibrating saws like a Mult-Master you may want to get one. But, Harbor Freight has one for $39 bucks and it is the most used tool I had while doing my floor. The HF blades are not very good, so go to HD or Lowes and get Bosche or Dremel blades. Both make similar tools but they cost over $100 bucks and the HF version works great.
__________________
68 TWind is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-09-2009, 06:00 PM   #12
Rivet Master
 
Minno's Avatar

 
1972 31' Sovereign
Lexington , Minnesota
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 3,323
Here's a couple of links to shell on floor repleacment threads. The first one is our Little Girl thread, and the second one is the one we read faithfully front to back to build up our confidence before we started. Both of these threads show and explain how to get full size sheets of plywood installed. Two slightly differnet techniques, but both work.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f185...urb-50967.html

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f91/...irl-31084.html

Good Luck! Feel free to ask more questions here, or PM us if you want.

Chris (Kay's other half)
__________________
Minno is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-09-2009, 07:56 PM   #13
Confused in Bham
 
1964 24' Tradewind
Bellingham , Washington
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 22
Thanks everyone. Great info today. I sure appreciate it. I'll post pics and stories of our sweat and tears (about equal so far) soon, and am sure will have more questions too. If anyone has anything to add, I'm all ears.
__________________
beyond is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-21-2009, 01:23 PM   #14
Confused in Bham
 
1964 24' Tradewind
Bellingham , Washington
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 22
The floor is out

Over the last few days, we've gotten the floor mostly out, and have been pretty pleased to see that the frame seems to be in ok shape.

The front Belly Pan that was on top of the frame (over the spare tire) is essentially useless, so took that out and wil replace. We have the inner skin out, except for the end corners. They are sadly fiberglass.
The plan is to replace the inner skin with new aluminum sheets, instead of stripping the originals. The thought is that we want the inside to be the shine of aluminum (at least the side walls) and won't have to use chemicals to strip them, and would like to have the freedom of not being forced into the original holes for electrical, etc.

The floor is now mostly out. It seams that I have the same problem as Minno now. The outer skin is being changed in shape without the wood and the bolts, so the holes do not line up anymore, but we will not be replacing the floor for a few weeks. As long as the belly pan is still on should we worry about the outer, and C-Channel, sagging enough that replacing the floor is a bigger challenge?
We were not planning on taking off the belly pan, but two things have made me reevaluate this. One is that the corner skin (?) around the outside is either holey or dented in many places. Second is the ease of replacing the floor.
Can anyone throw out ideas on what would keep the outer skin up when the belly pan is off? I could see this in Little Girl Refurb, but couldn't figure out how it was being supported above the frame. Portable stabalizer jacks with wood?
Also, Minno in #30 you mentioned you took out the C-Channel. Recommended for ease of replacing the floor?

All of the utilities are out now, and it seems that a prior owner badly strapped copper piping to the under belly, and bore unseaed holes into the belly and floor. We'll be replacing the copper, and am wondering if it is recomended to run the LP line through the floor, above the belly pan, or on the outside. Same question for the plumbing. Are moving the toilet to just behind the axle, and the shower across the 'hall'. Bed will be in back. With the open plan, we won't have much ability to hide the plumbing within cabinets or under day beds. This of course creates the challenge of the black box. I am expecting to purchase on that is around 6" deep, and cut a hole in the belly pan to allow for the extra depth that will not be allowed by the frame. With this I recognize the challenge of sealing around the tank. Any thoughts?
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0313small.jpg
Views:	116
Size:	70.2 KB
ID:	92806Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0315small.jpg
Views:	122
Size:	59.1 KB
ID:	92807Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0319small.jpg
Views:	116
Size:	43.8 KB
ID:	92808
__________________

__________________
beyond is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
1964, 1964 tradewind, floor repair, renovation


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
1967 Tradewind Renovation SilverHoot 1959-69 Tradewind 247 12-05-2017 09:07 PM
1962 Tradewind - Renovation Epic 2333 1959-69 Tradewind 114 09-13-2015 11:06 PM
1964 Airstream Tradewind 24' single axle classic look eBay Watch Airstreams on eBay 0 05-24-2009 07:00 PM
AirStream Trailer 24' Vintage 1964 eBay Watch Airstreams on eBay 0 03-20-2009 02:40 PM
1964 24' tradewind land yacht kayaman Cabinets, Counter Tops & Furnishings 1 03-12-2009 10:38 AM


Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 11:48 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.