1960 Tradewind frame

[CAPEHORN31]

What is the size and wall thickness of the rectangular frame that goes up to the coupler? Mine is rusted about three feet back and needs to be replaced.
Thanks,
Terry

[uwe]

Originally Posted by CAPEHORN31

What is the size and wall thickness of the rectangular frame that goes up to the coupler? Mine is rusted about three feet back and needs to be replaced.
Thanks,
Terry

Terry,

It is a 3in c-channel profile, but the wall thickness could vary from one year to another.
The section in the rear of the trailer where the bumper attaches should be identical in size. You can take that measurement and apply it to the tongue.

[markdoane]

Mine was 2" × 4", 12 gauge (.0808"), but be careful. As you can see from the first picture below, there was a second reinforcing angle slipped inside the rectangular tubing. I don't know where it starts, but it goes back a few feet. The rusted out spot was from a leak from the water tank drain fitting.

I put a slip cover on mine, a 12 ga. U-channel about 6 ft long. You can see that in the second picture.

[scottanlily]

hello Terry ,

your frame should look like markdoanes ,our 60 is the same ,but luckily we
had no rust out issues with it up front ,but the rear "2 feet in" needed replaced you should look at the rear sections .If you (search) Safari tims threads you can see his repairs on his ambassador ,had the same troubles as ours.I would have an inner sleeving of steel square tubing put inside the outer
sections you will be installing for strength as it will be needed ,never have
these a frame repairs butt welded at the ends ,unless there is an inner support structure in place .where the cutoff is made you can then insert the inner sleeve inside the (good) A frame section ,having it go rearward about
a couple feet with a couple feet extending forward where you will slip the
new frame over that .you will need to weld the inner sleeve unless it fits tightly inside .If not tight you will want to plug weld it along the frame
to secure it and have it become intregal with the old frame.Markdoanes
photo shows the idea of that inside section of steel square tubing.

Scott

[stanton66]

it is a 4'' c chanel that any steel sales co. will have . use plates in and out and wouldent hurt to box it there too.and do both sides.

[stanton66]

oh, i forgot to mention 4'' c perlins for steel buildings are the cats meow for cross members and outriggers.

[fastrob]

Originally Posted by stanton66

oh, i forgot to mention 4'' c perlins for steel buildings are the cats meow for cross members and outriggers.

Please clarify what you mean by this. How do the perlins attach to the steel?
Thanks.
R

[scottanlily]

The frame on the 60 trdwnd is square box steel tubing as shown in
markdoanes photo . It isn't C channel ,alot of the older trailers did have c channel frames .My 60 trdwnd is square box tube as well ,no channel .The
photo just shows the layover section that fits over the box frame to strengthen it that markdoane had fabricated to fix his rusted frame section.
The original square ends are then pinched closed where the coupler welds on it .
Scott

[TomW]

Originally Posted by fastrob

Please clarify what you mean by this. How do the perlins attach to the steel?

In building construction, purlins can be attached with fasteners and/or welding.

For use as cross members and outriggers on trailer frame construction, welding is the best method of attachment.

Tom

[robandzoe]

On both of our 1960 TradeWinds, of which now Stanton 66 has one of them, have the C Channel. Our 58 Overlander has the box frame, but I prefer the C Channel myself.

Rob

[JimGolden]

Box sections are a little stronger for a given size, but they tend to rust up faster. The problem is that if you do get water inside a box section, it's hard to get it out. So it rusts. With an open section like a C or an I-beam, they're not quite as strong as the box for the given size, but the water can't collect in them, so they don't tend to rust up as quickly. They are a bit lighter than a box, so you can use a slightly taller C or I section to get the same or greater stiffness for the same weight.

I'm going to use an open section for my new frame. Probably a C, but haven't ruled out an I-beam either.

Good luck.

[stanton66]

like robandzoe said i have two 1960 tradewinds iam working on now that have the c chanel frame.mabie they used both dependeing floor plan or options.the orginal c was boxed in places ,but only stitched,not welded solid.this allows water to drain.they should be done this way due to warping if welded solid.the c perlins are more than a c. they are almost a box. they are a perfect to replace cross members ,or can be put back to back with the orginals to double them.the are light weight and come coated with rust preventive.they might add 2 hundred #s or so if you double every one. 3 a

[scottanlily]

Very interesting on the frames ,because mine is definately boxed as in
square tubing for the whole frame .I did in fact have to replace 2 sections
at the rear including the old bent bumper due to the dirt and water rusting the inside of the rear frame rails ,it went in as far as the dirt .My 60 was in a caravan to mexico in the early 60s and it had a big amount of dirt packed into those rear rails ,but only about 1foot in ,luckily the rest of the frame is great.I capped the end rear frame sections so that puts an end to water going inside .I myself like the boxed frame ,and if you cap the ends no water can get in anyway .I did do floor replacements by the door and have looked inside the front and rear belly pans ,all boxed tubing there .I have an ohio trdwind so that must be the difference .The outriggers and the cross rails are channel however . Im sorry there on that channel post as I was unaware of that difference in where they were made ,funny how they do things so different sometimes just because of the location they were built.

Scott