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Old 02-10-2006, 07:20 PM   #57
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Here are some pictures of the 26ft. 1958 trailer listed before in the thread.
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Old 02-10-2006, 07:21 PM   #58
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More pictures of the 58
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Old 02-10-2006, 07:24 PM   #59
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I have more if anyone is interested.
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Old 02-11-2006, 03:35 PM   #60
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Juel... that is AWESOME! That interior looks a lot like the interior of my '58, same type of wood, similiar counter tops, fantastic! The light sconces are a little different and that layout is totally different than mine ( I have a strange two door, mid-bath, rear bed layout).

The one thing is, I can see water damage on the bottom of the cabinets in the rear bathroom... Based on this I would venture to guess that the rear end floor has water damage also.

I would definitely buy this trailer. Actually... if you don't want it...
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Old 02-11-2006, 03:40 PM   #61
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Laying out the new floor

Look!! I built a mobile skate park!

I got the plywood today and layed it down on the old floor to template it before i tear up the old floor.

Oh, and a note on buying plywood. I used 5/8" (AKA 19/32") CDX plywood. The only difference between this and ACX is that ACX is more expensive and is sanded on one side. It's good if you're going to have it showing, or paint it or whatever, but since one side of this wood will be covered by tile and the other side is covered by the bellypan... I could care less what it looks like. Anyhow, I bought six sheets of this plywood for $120 at a small local lumber yard. I figure that's a pretty good deal.

I'm breaking for lunch right now... much needed. yum.
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Old 02-11-2006, 08:25 PM   #62
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Update

I've templated my new floor and have removed most of the old floor. I'll post pictures tomorrow since I finished up when it was dark outside.

Before removing the old floor, I layed the new plywood over it and outlined it from underneath. To do this, I screwed the new plywood to the old floor in a few place to hold it down firmly. Then I got on my back and used a big marker to follow the old floors perimiter. Oddly, I found that one section of the floor (the second-to-last moving from front to rear) is cut about two inches short of the normal 48" for a sheet of ply. I would think that when they designed these things they would have made them so that no sheets had to be cut across long-wise except for the very front or very end... but, what do I know. Maybe a cross-member just had to be placed there.

In the rear end I found several completely rotted out cross members. One of them came right out with the old wood floor, still attached to the bottom of the floor. The frame in the middle and front of the trailer is in much better condition. I'm going to need to do some welding anyhow to accomodate for the new water tanks.

Speaking of... here's what I think I'm going to do in terms of modifications from original:

1. 50 gallon fresh water tank over the axles
2. 30 gallon gray water tank over the axles
3. Batteries up front where the old water tank was
4. A/C under the bed in the rear (possibly a two-way)
5. New refrigerator (a two-way so we can run off propane while driving)

I'm going to go to an RV Parts store tomorrow and order my new tanks, perhaps, and look at water pumps, etc.

Hmm... that's about it. Pics to follow soon. Zipping right along, la dee la.
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Old 02-11-2006, 08:39 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by malconium
Does your rear bed run length wise or side ways to the lengh of the trailer? In my 1973 31' rig I will be rebuilding it with a queen sized bed aligned lengthwise. That means that the front end of it will be almost 7' into the overall length of the trailer. Your trailer, being a 26' I gather, must be something like 22' feet long on the inside.
Malcolm
The inside of my trailer is just under 24'. The bed runs lengthwise, headboard at rear window, toes pointing toward the hitch. Oddly enough, it's only about a full size bed and perhaps a little shorter than a standard full. That's because of the rear door requiring some access, I guess and also because of the mid-bath jutting out into the trailer body. I've been thinking about re-orienting the bed to run across the back of the trailer because I think that might enable me to fit a queen size mattress back there. But either way, I'm pretty sure I can get the cold air from the A/C to shoot down the hall, and up, at the same time. It would be great if I could run a duct under the trailer and place the intake up in the front. I'll have to look into that...

I like the idea of using the reflective foil insulation. I'm also thinking about adding some sound deadening material to the inside of the walls, under the floors, etc. Oh, and I've been looking around for a rubberized type compound that I can paint the inside of the external skin with, as well as the "frame", in order to insulate the interior skin from the outside material. Aluminum is a mighty good thermal conductor, as you know
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Old 02-11-2006, 08:40 PM   #64
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Originally Posted by malconium
I bought a pnuematic rivit gun at Harbor Frieght for less than $30 and I am very glad that I did. I already had an air compressor so that part was covered. Check out the following HF sites. The first one is for the gun that I bought and I see that the price is higher now. The second one is for another model that they have that happens to be on sale at a better price.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...itemnumber=167
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=93458
Malcolm
Malcom, thanks for the info on the rivet gun! When I lived in CA I used to go to Harbor freight all the time, great prices... I just found out that there are a couple out here in AZ, too. I'll have to head over there soon.
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Old 02-12-2006, 12:31 AM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ankornuta
Malcom, thanks for the info on the rivet gun! When I lived in CA I used to go to Harbor freight all the time, great prices... I just found out that there are a couple out here in AZ, too. I'll have to head over there soon.
Harbor Freight have a grat shipping department. We have a store in town, but still sometimes I just get stuff shipped. It's cheaper for me to just order what I need, as opposed to going to their store, and coming out with all kinds of stuff that I did not even need. Tool freak, me.
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Old 02-12-2006, 12:40 AM   #66
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Originally Posted by uwe
Harbor Freight have a grat shipping department. We have a store in town, but still sometimes I just get stuff shipped. It's cheaper for me to just order what I need, as opposed to going to their store, and coming out with all kinds of stuff that I did not even need. Tool freak, me.
Ahh yes, the same thing happens to me. I go in for one thing I swear !! and I come out with 3 or 4 things. Just like a kid in a candy store !!!

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Old 02-12-2006, 10:08 PM   #67
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Rust!

There's a lot more rust on the frame of my trailer than I was hoping to find. Looks like I'll have to replace at least three outriggers and two cross members. I might have to do a little more.

I think I have my water system all planned out now. I have it drawn out on paper, maybe I'll scan it and post it here.

I'm sore from ripping plywood of the frame (and cleaning up the ensuing mess). Those elevator bolts hold on pretty tight.
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Old 02-12-2006, 10:17 PM   #68
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Amazing!

Always neat to see the skeleton of a trailer. How are you going to procede? Will you take it and get it sandblasted and welded up, or are you doing it yourself?

I'm curious - is that the belly pan next to it?
Thanks for the updates, I enjoy reading them.
Marc
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Old 02-12-2006, 10:32 PM   #69
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Belly Pan

Thanks for the kind words! Actually, that's the cieling next to the frame there...

Here's a picture of the belly pan, under the body (behind the frame). It looks pretty small all piled up like that. I actually found some places on that belly pan where it was patched using Coors cans. I thought that was a pretty nice touch

In spite of the Coors cans the belly pan is pretty nasty due to being that it lives under the trailer and close to the road, as well as di-electric corrosion that's happened over the years (I think that's what it's called) due to my rusty frame and rusted steel mounting brackets for propane lines. I'm going to use it to template a new belly then take the old one to a recycling center or something.

A friend of mine has a welder and knows how to use it pretty well. I think I'll kill two birds with one stone and get a welding lesson as well as have him help me with the frame. As far as sandblasting goes, I don't have the facilities for that and I'm an avid (maybe stubborn) DIY'er, so I think I'll just wire-wheel it with an angle grinder.
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Old 02-12-2006, 10:36 PM   #70
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Calculating volumes

For anyone who doesn't already know this, to calculate the volume of a space in gallons (for water/holding tanks), when measuring in inches, do this:

(LxWxH)/231 = volume in gallons

So based on that, without making a ton of frame modifications, I can accomodate approximately 54 gallons for fresh water over the axles, with space for approx a 30 gal gray tank, water pump and pipes/dump valve.
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