You are moving right along. I don't see a problem with the T&G if the seams fall in the right places on the frame, that is over a cross member. I wouldn't join them between cross members. Look real good at how the elevator bolts caught both sheets. I found a grinder to take off the bolts heads helped for getting the floor out and the pieces of bolts stuck in the frame.
__________________ Let those who can play, let those who cann't rule.
Uwe's solution was to use a custom made bracket that is very similar, but bolted on all 4 sides for easier installation/removal.
There might be a reason that he didn't use the "stock" tank; I don't recall. Probably not much cost difference between that one and a custom job, as the inland special is very expensive. Its possible that it may not have quite fit right. we'll have to ask him!
anyway, check that thread, and you'll see lots of pics of the arrangement.
I used a custom tank because the frame rails are narrower on the 1963 then they are on the models that use the airstream OEM tank. The tank from Inland ( or Airstream) would not fit in-between.
Also, I wanted a trio of thaks that have the same characteristics, and are made to my needs, instead of choosing pre-made tanks and working around an existing design circumstance.
I am glad I did. It was not horribly expensive, and the results are a clean, well conceiled installation.
Thanks Uwe, this is good info. I'll probably wind up going the same route with a custom tank to fit between the rails.
I have that floor-mounted furnace that I need to work around near the axles... but I keep considering getting rid of it. Or maybe moving it. It's neat, it's a novelty, it's... in the way.
Today I found a 1958, 26ft International for sale in a small town in Oklahoma. It seems to be a good shape. The man wants $1500. for it, may take less. It looks like a great project with few of the "horrible" problems we often run in to. My husband thinks it's too old for us to tackle, so I thought I would let the forum know. The floor seemed solid and there were no leaks that could be seen on a quick inspection. The trailer was recently pulled here from California, so it seems road worthy.
I was inside, but I have looked at this trailer for about a month and it wasn't until I was down visiting a client that I decided to cruise by again and there was the "for sale" sign in the window. Didn' have my camera. When I took the pictures I posted here I was hiding in my van, chased there by a pit bull. I'm going to try to go back tomorrow and will take the camera and maybe dicker with him over price. I will have to fight my way around the chickens and the pit bull, but I'm determined.
Wow, that looks pretty nice. It's got the California style wheel wells, like mine, and dual axles which - as I understand it - were still an option on the '58 Overlander. I would certainly pay $1500 for that, but then again, what it is they say about a fool and his money?
On a more serious note, I thought the floor was pretty solid on mine, too, until I started pulling it apart. A fifty year old trailer is well, a fifty year old trailer. From what I can tell, the plywood they used for the floors wasn't treated in any way. But I can tell you first hand, doing an off-frame restoration is pretty fun and there really is no better way to get to know your trailer
Being that I live in Phoenix and it was 80 degrees today (in February), with the real heat of the summer fast approaching, I can't stop thinking about what kind of A/C I'm going to put into my trailer, and where. With the current thoughts I've been having, I'm pretty sure I'll need to run wiring and drain lines through or under the belly for the A/C.
I'm pretty sure I want to put the A/C under the bed, possibly in the space previously regarded as the trunk so I can vent through the outside rear.
Lately, I've been thinking about using a portable type room A/C unit and disassembling it from it's case so that I can fit it in the correct size space and run ducting for it. The ones I've been looking at are pretty affordable (about $500) and are designed to cool 400 sq feet. The trailer is around 200 sq feet.
Of course, I could always go with one of the custom built units a friend of mine makes for cooling custom wine cellars. The problem here though is that these are very pricey, even if he does it for me 'at cost'.
Being that I live in Phoenix and it was 80 degrees today (in February), with the real heat of the summer fast approaching, I can't stop thinking about what kind of A/C I'm going to put into my trailer, and where. With the current thoughts I've been having, I'm pretty sure I'll need to run wiring and drain lines through or under the belly for the A/C.
I'm pretty sure I want to put the A/C under the bed, possibly in the space previously regarded as the trunk so I can vent through the outside rear.
Lately, I've been thinking about using a portable type room A/C unit and disassembling it from it's case so that I can fit it in the correct size space and run ducting for it. The ones I've been looking at are pretty affordable (about $500) and are designed to cool 400 sq feet. The trailer is around 200 sq feet.
Of course, I could always go with one of the custom built units a friend of mine makes for cooling custom wine cellars. The problem here though is that these are very pricey, even if he does it for me 'at cost'.
I did this very exact thing for my Overlander. I used a 16kbtu unit, the largest available for 120V single phase. You can see the installation in my Overlander thread. ( a 63 for me....)
It works quite well. You will have to insulate the ducting, and everything that comes in contact witht he cooled air, otherwise it will produce lots of condensation.
I did this very exact thing for my Overlander. I used a 16kbtu unit, the largest available for 120V single phase. You can see the installation in my Overlander thread. ( a 63 for me....)
It works quite well. You will have to insulate the ducting, and everything that comes in contact witht he cooled air, otherwise it will produce lots of condensation.
Damn you Uwe! You've already done everything cool there is to do to an Airstream... there's nothing novel left!
I hope you know I'm joking. In reality, it's really great to know that someone's already done this and it works. I was wondering if it would work or be a good idea, or wind up being a waste of 500+ bucks.
On a different note, I want to get one of these for my trailer, I think it would look mighty nice near the sofa up front: http://www.predicta.com/meteor.shtml (and Uwe, don't tell me you already have one!)
On a different note, I want to get one of these for my trailer, I think it would look mighty nice near the sofa up front: http://www.predicta.com/meteor.shtml
Being that I live in Phoenix and it was 80 degrees today (in February), with the real heat of the summer fast approaching, I can't stop thinking about what kind of A/C I'm going to put into my trailer, and where. With the current thoughts I've been having, I'm pretty sure I'll need to run wiring and drain lines through or under the belly for the A/C.
I'm pretty sure I want to put the A/C under the bed, possibly in the space previously regarded as the trunk so I can vent through the outside rear.
Lately, I've been thinking about using a portable type room A/C unit and disassembling it from it's case so that I can fit it in the correct size space and run ducting for it. The ones I've been looking at are pretty affordable (about $500) and are designed to cool 400 sq feet. The trailer is around 200 sq feet.
Of course, I could always go with one of the custom built units a friend of mine makes for cooling custom wine cellars. The problem here though is that these are very pricey, even if he does it for me 'at cost'.
Does your rear bed run length wise or side ways to the lengh of the trailer? In my 1973 31' rig I will be rebuilding it with a queen sized bed aligned lengthwise. That means that the front end of it will be almost 7' into the overall length of the trailer. Your trailer, being a 26' I gather, must be something like 22' feet long on the inside. If your bed can be arranged the same as I am intending then the front end of the bed would be at roughly the 1/3 point from the back of the inside. It could be that if you just shoot the cold air into the end of the hallway from the end of the bed that it will create enough air movement to get it far enough down the hall. If not then I suggest that you might be able to add a small fan or two up near the front of the trailer to help move the warmer air from front to back. The cold air will naturally want to stay near the floor so if you move hot air from front to back the cold air will naturally flow forward I would think.
Another thing to think about is that you might be able to duct the intake side of the air conditioner rather than the output cold air side. You could perhaps work out a way to use reflective foil insulation around a part of your belly pan area so that it becomes a return air duct from somewhere in the front of the trailer.
I am going to have to give some thought to whether or not I would like to do the same. I have the roof top air conditioner on mine but I don't really like the looks of the thing up there all that much. I, for one, would like to hear more about how it works out for you.
Bye the way I am using reflective foil insulation in my walls and I am pretty well convinced that this is a much better way to go that using fieberglass. See the following thread regarding some tests that I did on the topic.
There are some other threads that talk about installation techniques that I used as well as some that other people besides me used. I am not the only one who has decided to use reflective foil by the way.
I'm going to order my plywood and tiles today. I guess I should also go water tank shopping.
So um... what size rivets do I use to put the body back on?
Also, I'm not going to buck them... I want to use "pop" (olympic) rivets. Along that line, what should I use to put them in. I have a little rotating-head squeeze handle rivet gun, but if I use that I think I'll have carpal tunnel before I'm done reattaching everything.
I bought a pnuematic rivit gun at Harbor Frieght for less than $30 and I am very glad that I did. I already had an air compressor so that part was covered. Check out the following HF sites. The first one is for the gun that I bought and I see that the price is higher now. The second one is for another model that they have that happens to be on sale at a better price.
One note on HF and posted sales on the Internet. I found that the walk in stores will honor an Internet sales price if you take in a print out of the item. The prices in the store are not always the same as on the Internet.
The tool comes with different size tips so you can use it for all the types of rivest you will need for your AS. One thing I especially like about the tool, besides less stress on the wrists, is that you can use it with one hand. My hand held one usually took both hands so that I could open it for the second squeeze that was often needed. With the pnuematic one I can hold on to the item I am attaching with one hand and use the gun with the other. That really does help a lot, especially with attaching trim and other smaller pieces.
Think about using an ice pick to help you line up any existing rivet holes.
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