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Old 02-06-2006, 02:38 PM   #29
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Oh and I'm supposed to announce that I haven't been doing this entirely by myself; my friend Kasey has helped out quite a bit. And so has Max. However, pretty much everything so far, except for pulling the trailer out from under the lifted body and carrying around the 8'x20' piece of cieling would have been possible solo... but it's always easier with help.
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Old 02-07-2006, 02:14 PM   #30
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You might want to take a look at how the floor is put together now. The one on my 1967 has a 4 inch wide backer (two inches on each side of the seam) at each joint. This piece is glued and screwed in place. I will see if I can dig up a photo of what I am talking about.
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Old 02-07-2006, 04:09 PM   #31
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Mine doesn't appear to have anything like that, but I could be wrong as I haven't fully torn it up yet. I think it's just stapled together and then bolted down.
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Old 02-07-2006, 09:07 PM   #32
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Short frame members

Today I cut out the old toilet riser that some PO had put in (the poop deck). It looks like the original toilet was removed some time in the 70's and a mascerating electic toilet was installed, sitting on top of a 3" wood riser. This had a large old iron drain pipe coming down that connected with the drains from the sinks.

Anyhow, I cut it out so I could lay the new plywood down flat on the old and trace the shape.

What I found when I cut it out was weird; this is the first middle-area bit of the floor that I've cut out so far. The cross-members that attach to the frame rails near where the drain pipe runs is "shorter" than the others. It is just the top part of the c-channel, and only extends down about one inch. There are aluminum braces sticking down to hold the shape of the belly pan in these areas. It looks totally original, like the frame is not cut away in these areas and the original paint is on the edge of the cross-member and everything.

Anyone else seen anything like this?
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Old 02-07-2006, 09:59 PM   #33
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Hidden A/C

Quote:
Originally Posted by ankornuta
I don't want to put an A/C unit on the roof of my trailer. I want to keep the look original and the 50's style A/C units were so big and boxy looking..............
The only thing I need to figure out is, if I do put the A/C back there, how to run a duct up toward the front of the trailer to evenly cool the whole thing. I suppose I could find space in the belly for that.
Uwe has installed a/c and there are many others. Heat rises, cool air falls, duct work to drop cool air from top and heat from the floor. I would like to combine both in one system and the looks of some duct work could be artsy and functional.

Keep up the good work and thanks for sharing, I sure do appreciate it.

Rob
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Old 02-08-2006, 11:34 AM   #34
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Interesting thought... Along those lines, I was thinking about keeping the original floor heater that my trailer had from the factory. It's a strange anamoly; this radiator under the floor in the middle of the trailer. I kind of want to keep it for that reason.

But if I decide to go with the under-bed rear-mounted A/C in addition, maybe I should run a duct up to the cieling in the middle of the trailer.... that way the cool air would circulate better. I wonder if a duct could be made slim enough to fit inside of the wall... it would have to be partially structural since I would have to cut out some of the frame pieces (AKA "Bulkheads" in aviation terminology) in the body in order to run it from the back up to the middle of the trailer.
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Old 02-08-2006, 12:09 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ankornuta
Anyone else seen anything like this?
not familiar with that specific make and model, but perhaps there was originally a pipe that had to run through that area? reminds me of the setup of the fresh water tanks on the 70's trailers: it takes up 2 frame cavities, but there still needs to be something there where a full cross member would be to nail the floor to. So they put a short x-member in there that looks very much like what you see in your pictures. the water tank is nearly 4 feet wide, but has depressed channel running down the middle of it, so there's room for the x-member.

see this pic from inlandrv's parts page:

http://www.inlandrv.com/parts/14514-watertank_.jpg


anyway, maybe your "anomoly" is for some similar purpose...not a water tank, of course...but maybe a black tank? or a pipe or something....
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Old 02-08-2006, 01:07 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ankornuta
Anyone else seen anything like this?
the back toilet area of my 59 traveller was kinda hacked up, too. here's a few pics. the outrigger was cut off, with a cresent shape, like it was making clearance for a pipe or something. also, underneath the rear frame lower was cut out in that area, too. i ended up replacing the outrigger with a new one, to be safe. these things were definitely adjusted by hand on the line! i bet no 2 are alike!

jordan
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Old 02-08-2006, 01:28 PM   #37
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Just a thought about body alingment

For what it is worth, if I were you I wouldn't worry too much about the body flex as long as nothing is damaged. I think if you repair and rebuild your frame/floor so that it is the same shape as the original that you will be able to realign the body to it so that it returns to its original shape. The fact that you notice that the body is so limber without the floor basically validates what I said here - namely that the floor is what gives the body its exact shape around the bottom when they are attached together.

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Old 02-08-2006, 02:09 PM   #38
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Chuck... the short x-members were definitely there so that the drain pipe frmo the kitchen sink could connect w/ the toilet drain pipe and exit from under the trailer behind the rear-most wheel. However, that link you provided gave me a great idea! I want to add a gray water tank to my trailer, so this is the perfect kind to add. I'll have to get some measurements to make sure it'll fit...

Quote:
Originally Posted by chuck
reminds me of the setup of the fresh water tanks on the 70's trailers: it takes up 2 frame cavities, but there still needs to be something there where a full cross member would be to nail the floor to. So they put a short x-member in there that looks very much like what you see in your pictures. the water tank is nearly 4 feet wide, but has depressed channel running down the middle of it, so there's room for the x-member.

see this pic from inlandrv's parts page:

http://www.inlandrv.com/parts/14514-watertank_.jpg


anyway, maybe your "anomoly" is for some similar purpose...not a water tank, of course...but maybe a black tank? or a pipe or something....
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Old 02-08-2006, 02:12 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by A-Merry-Can
the back toilet area of my 59 traveller was kinda hacked up, too. here's a few pics. the outrigger was cut off, with a cresent shape, like it was making clearance for a pipe or something. also, underneath the rear frame lower was cut out in that area, too. i ended up replacing the outrigger with a new one, to be safe. these things were definitely adjusted by hand on the line! i bet no 2 are alike!

jordan
I think you're exactly right, Jordan! But I figure anything adjusted "on the line" is probably okay in terms of safety and longevity and anything adjusted by a P.O. is up for review That's how I keep my sanity anyhow... Whenever I come across something weird I try to determine if it's original or not. If it looks like it is... I generally keep it that way!
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Old 02-08-2006, 02:15 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by malconium
For what it is worth, if I were you I wouldn't worry too much about the body flex as long as nothing is damaged. I think if you repair and rebuild your frame/floor so that it is the same shape as the original that you will be able to realign the body to it so that it returns to its original shape. The fact that you notice that the body is so limber without the floor basically validates what I said here - namely that the floor is what gives the body its exact shape around the bottom when they are attached together.

Malcolm
Malcom, I've come to realize this to be true. The body can flex like a mother... so can the frame once it's detached. It's pretty amazing. And yet both of these components are very strong. A large part of their strength comes from how very flexible they are. This of course contributes to their lightness, too. However, the body seems to have a lot of "tensile strength" in addition to its flexibility. In otherwords, it's not as much like Jello as I previously worried it was
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Old 02-08-2006, 03:30 PM   #41
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... However, that link you provided gave me a great idea! I want to add a gray water tank to my trailer, so this is the perfect kind to add. I'll have to get some measurements to make sure it'll fit...
yep. had the same idea, but based on the specifics of my particular trailer, it might be more trouble than its worth. (plus...they don't give those tanks away, that's for sure! ).

check out Uwe's epic thread, "A 63 for me". He had the same idea, but actually carried it through to fruition. (unlike some other people I know ). He wound up doing it with a custom made tank, but it fits in the same way, and is supported in a similar fashion to the 70's fresh water tanks. That tank is meant to sit on a piece of 1" plywood. the plywood is then supported on 3 sides by angle-iron that is welded up onto the underside of the frame . the 4th side is also angle-iron, but its bolted to the frame, so it can be removed. with that piece removed, the plywood can slide forward, and the tank can drop down to the ground. Uwe's solution was to use a custom made bracket that is very similar, but bolted on all 4 sides for easier installation/removal.
There might be a reason that he didn't use the "stock" tank; I don't recall. Probably not much cost difference between that one and a custom job, as the inland special is very expensive. Its possible that it may not have quite fit right. we'll have to ask him!

anyway, check that thread, and you'll see lots of pics of the arrangement.
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Old 02-08-2006, 10:14 PM   #42
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Well, I'm definitely adding a gray water tank in the middle of trailer.

The black tank, I've decided, is going to be a pedestal for the toilet, preferably an original '58.

Now... the killer is... I can't figure out where to put my freshwater tank. I have the original 18 gallon up front, but I think I'd like to get rid of that one and either install a larger 30 gallon tank up there or maybe a 30/40 gallon fresh tank in the middle of the frame, like over the axles.

I think the current axles can hold the extra 500-ish pounds (30 gallon gray, 30 gallon fresh). Obviously I'll be verifying this before moving forward with my plan!
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