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Old 11-17-2006, 05:38 PM   #365
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ark - great work and documentation. i'm in the early stages of a shell off restoration of my '56 flying cloud and found so much useful information from your thread, it is greatly, greatly appreciated.

with that said, i hope you don't sell the trailer. worst case scenario, take up the offers to store it in az. for awhile. i think it would be hard to get the price you want for it (and even then it wouldn't be worth because you've put so much of yourself into it). i think a lot of people have enjoyed your thread.
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Old 11-18-2006, 04:52 PM   #366
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More pain, but some progress

I finally got around to mounting the new wheel I got last night. The old one was leaking air. Anyhow, when I tried to put it on, I realized that they had given me a rim with 5.5" spacing between the bolt holes and my trailer has 5.75" spacing. Argh! So this morning I had to take off another tire and bring both down to Discount Tire by my house so they could compare them. Anyhow, they're going to correct the problem and I don't have to pay anymore money, but it's going to be about three days before I get the new wheel back.

In the meanwhile, I decided to move my trailer away from the wall so I could get all the stuff out of it and continue my work. I did this last night from about 5pm to 6:30pm. In the process I managed to basically destroy much of the grass in my backyard, though I did get the front of the trailer far enough away from the fence that I could actually start unloading it today. I've posted some rather comical pictures of my jeep in my backyard trying to move this trailer. I realized that if I had a full-size truck instead of a Grand Cherokee, it wouldn't even fit into the yard through the alley. I was getting claustorphobic trying to maneuver this thing around.

Today I wanted to start on the wiring, but succeeded instead at only emptying the trailer of about 3/4s of its current contents. Oh well, if I have time next weekend I'll get to start on the wiring. Tomorrow will be spent emptying the trailer the rest of the way and cleaning it up on the inside a bit. It's hard to find space to put everything since I don't have a garage at this house, but a carport instead.

Here's links to the first 499 photos of the restoration: http://picasaweb.google.com/andrew.k...iforniaCruiser

Here's where the next 500 will be, only 35 so far though: http://picasaweb.google.com/andrew.k...amCruiserPart2
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Old 11-19-2006, 04:43 PM   #367
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Quote:
Originally Posted by urbanfood
ark - great work and documentation. i'm in the early stages of a shell off restoration of my '56 flying cloud and found so much useful information from your thread, it is greatly, greatly appreciated.

with that said, i hope you don't sell the trailer. worst case scenario, take up the offers to store it in az. for awhile. i think it would be hard to get the price you want for it (and even then it wouldn't be worth because you've put so much of yourself into it). i think a lot of people have enjoyed your thread.
Thanks... I've been tinkering with the trailer quite a bit this weekend, and starting to do some more planning for the next phase, so I will keep the progress moving and play things by ear.

In other news, I gave the Airstream a "bath" today. I had a friend of mine stand inside and watch for leaks while I sprayed the trailer down with a hose, using the "jet" setting on the nozzle. I sprayed all of the places where I thought it might leak; around the roof top vents, around all of the window seals, doors, etc. To my surprise, the only leak on the whole trailer was one window that has no seal at all left on the top of it!
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Old 11-19-2006, 05:00 PM   #368
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More Electric Talk

I took Richard's (Azflycaster) advice and contacted Randy at www.bestconverter.com. He was EXTREMELY helpful. I basically know nothing about how to wire a trailer and he helped me out quite a bit.

It looks like I'm going to go with:
- WFCO 8900 series 55amp converter / charger with power distribution center. This will hold my AC breakers and DC Fuse panel. I believe I need one main 30 amp breaker and do I also need one 30 amp breaker for the Air Conditioner?

- WFCO 600 watt true sine inverter

- Class T fuse block

- Two Lifeline AGM GPL-4C 6 Volt, 220 Ampere Hour Deep Cycle batteries, wired to produce 12 volts. These weigh almost 70 pounds each, though... so I'm wondering if I'm going to need to reinforce the tongue of the trailer, and how to do that.

- TriMetric battery monitor

- Some type of mechanical Battery disconnect

Also... in my trailer, all of the 110V AC wiring today is just copper wire with insulation. However, I know that in construction, Romex is generally used. Is there a reason not to use Romex when replacing the 110V AC wiring in the trailer?
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Old 11-19-2006, 07:25 PM   #369
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I'm glad your working on it again. I know from personal experince how time consuming and frustrating it can be. Expecially if you don't have the time to devote to it!

On your A/C I used a 20amp breaker. That should be fine. You proably will run 12 gauge wire for the a/c. Remember you install the size breaker for the wire and outlets used, not for what will be plugged into it.

So, #10 wire gets a 30 amp breaker (the supply to the trailer), #12 gets a 20 amp breaker (A/C, microwave), and #14 gets a 15 amp breaker (outlets and lights).

On my trailer I just bought a bunch of 12 gauge, for everything. You can put a 15 amp breaker on #12 you just can't use a breaker higher than 20 amp on 12 gauge.

As far as romex, I'd use it. Make sure you get the two wire with a ground. So the romex will have a black (hot) wire, white (neutral), and green or copper (ground).

Keep it up. There is a light end of the tunnel, or so I've heard. But its a really loooooooooooooooong tunnel!
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Old 11-19-2006, 07:54 PM   #370
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keep on truckin! i've been working on my 18 footer for 18 months now! i sorta took a hiattus there for a while, but now i'm past the ugly, and everything i do improves it that much more. tim's right, though... loooong tunnel... albiet extremely rewarding!

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Old 11-19-2006, 11:08 PM   #371
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Good advise from Tim. I would go with 12 Gauge 2 wire + ground and 15 amp breakers on everything except the Air Conditioner (if you have one). I would also protect the wire at the ribs with a grommet of some kind.

A sharp edge could cut through the plastic wire coating. Also rule number one is no splices behind walls. If the wire is not long enough, get one that is.
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Old 11-20-2006, 06:47 AM   #372
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www.mcmaster.com has everything you need. that's where i got mine!

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Old 11-20-2006, 10:45 PM   #373
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Okay, so 30 amp breaker from the shore power into the trailer... 20 amp breaker for the A/C, and 15 Amp breakers for everything else. How many of the "everything else" breakers are typical on a 26' trailer?

I'm totally looking forward to this 4 day weekend With a few minor exceptions and lots of turkey, I'll get to spend most of the time working on the trailer!
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Old 11-20-2006, 10:54 PM   #374
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ankornuta
Okay, so 30 amp breaker from the shore power into the trailer... 20 amp breaker for the A/C, and 15 Amp breakers for everything else. How many of the "everything else" breakers are typical on a 26' trailer?

I'm totally looking forward to this 4 day weekend With a few minor exceptions and lots of turkey, I'll get to spend most of the time working on the trailer!
Andy,

My 1979 Safari has two 20A breakers and one 15A GFCI breaker in addition to the 30A main breaker.

Bill
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Old 11-20-2006, 11:02 PM   #375
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Andy,

My 1979 Safari has two 20A breakers and one 15A GFCI breaker in addition to the 30A main breaker.

Bill
Thanks Bill! You wouldn't happen to know what they go to, would you?

Also, like in a house, are all splices in boxes? Should they be? I don't think the walls are quite thick enough for that... The old wiring in my '58 is all wirenuts and electrical tape right behind the insulation.

I think I need to go to the library and do some reading...

-Andrew
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Old 11-20-2006, 11:06 PM   #376
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My Trade Wind (25') has a total of 5 breakers. 1 main, 1 ac and 3 others. One of my others has the converter and an exterior (patio outlet). Another has the refrigerator and a several outlets. The third other has the rest of the outlets.
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Old 11-20-2006, 11:20 PM   #377
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You really should not have splices. Basically you can split the trailer in two for convience outlets.

Start at the breaker box and run a line to your first outlet. The outlet has two sets of screws one for incoming power and another set to loop it to the next outlet.

It will be clear when you start doing it.

On my '60, it had two 20 amp breakers, one for each side of the trailer.



Quote:
Originally Posted by ankornuta
Thanks Bill! You wouldn't happen to know what they go to, would you?

Also, like in a house, are all splices in boxes? Should they be? I don't think the walls are quite thick enough for that... The old wiring in my '58 is all wirenuts and electrical tape right behind the insulation.

I think I need to go to the library and do some reading...

-Andrew
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Old 11-21-2006, 01:08 AM   #378
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ankornuta
Thanks Bill! You wouldn't happen to know what they go to, would you?

Also, like in a house, are all splices in boxes? Should they be? I don't think the walls are quite thick enough for that... The old wiring in my '58 is all wirenuts and electrical tape right behind the insulation.

I think I need to go to the library and do some reading...

-Andrew
Andrew,

One 20A to the A/C, one 15A GFCI to the outsite outlet, univolt and bedroom and one 20A to kitchen and dining area.

I would go with a 20A GFCI to outside outlet and kitchen (microwave, refer and sink), one 20A to A/C, one 20A on one side of trailer and one 20A on the other side of trailer. When we remodeled our kitchen I added many outlets and circuits all 20A and I would stay with 20A.

No splices in the walls, only in outlet boxes. The runs in the trailer are short enough, you can daisy chain from one outlet to the next.

Bill
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