I can totally identify with that... like when they cancelled "Arrested Development". I loved that show. Think of this more like a favorite show possibly changing networks
The thing that confuses me though is the diagram, which I've uploaded. It shows the AC shore power coming into the 110V breaker panel, then into the converter. It also shows the 110V items (outlets, AC, etc) drawing throught the breaker panel, to the inverter, which seems accurate.
My question is, wouldn't the shore power go directly to the converter, then to the 110V breaker panel for its output to the 110V items? That way, when there is no shore power, the converter can automatically draw from the batteries, instead.
Oh, also... how does one ensure that the Air Conditioning cannot be turned on while not connected to shore power?
I imagine if that were to happen by accident it would cause some problems....
The power goes to the fuse panel first for protection. The converter is just another 110 volt item. If the converter was to short out it would trip a breaker in the power panel. It has nothing to do with the 110 volt operation of the trailer. It produces 12 volts for the battery and the 12 volt devices. When you have no shore power the 12 volt devices run from the battery automatically. When you have no shore power the air has no power. Turning it on does nothing, it is basically unplugged.
I think you have the converter confused with an inverter. The converter does not make 110 from the battery. You would need an inverter to do that.
The diagram that you attached is basicly how the system works.
drawing throught the breaker panel, to the inverter, which seems accurate.
um...no. there's no inverter.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ankornuta
My question is, wouldn't the shore power go directly to the converter, then to the 110V breaker panel for its output to the 110V items? That way, when there is no shore power, the converter can automatically draw from the batteries, instead.
nope. the converter converts 110v a/c to 12v dc. only dc lights/appliances get their power from it. the 12v system is like a big "loop". the batter and the converter both supply 12v on the line; If the converter is being fed by 110v, it puts 12v on the line; if it isn't being fed, it does nothing. power is drawn from the battery.
this "loop" is totally seperate from the 110volt circuits. If you turn on the air conditioner when there's no shore power...nothing happens.
OH... that makes sense. I just assumed that all converters were packaged along with inverters. I did a little more online research and realized that is not the case.
I think that I would like to find an inverter/converter/charger combination so that I could use 12V and 110V even when disconnected from shore power for items like TV, kitchen appliances and charging my laptop.
I made 2 changes to the diagram that you posted. This is how my 75 Trade Wind is wired. The converter and the outside 12 volts (truck) feed to the 12 volt fuse panel. They are feed back to the battery from that point.
I made 2 changes to the diagram that you posted. This is how my 75 Trade Wind is wired. The converter and the outside 12 volts (truck) feed to the 12 volt fuse panel. They are feed back to the battery from that point.
Richard,
Interesting, my 1979 Safari is just like the original diagram.
Bill
__________________
Bill Kerfoot, WBCCI/VAC/CAC/El Camino Real Unit #5223
Just my personal opinion
1973 Dodge W200 PowerWagon, 1977 Lincoln Continental
1979 23' Safari, and 1954 29' Double Door Liner Orange, CA
Interesting, my 1979 Safari is just like the original diagram.
Bill
I have the diagram for mine and the battery connects to the fuse / distrabution panel. If yours is like the first diagram you would have 2 sets of wires going to the battery. I have one set.
I think you're both right, it's the diagram that is faulty. According to the diagram, energy from the converter must pass THROUGH the battery to get to the fuse panel. Thats false. The converter, battery and charge line are in parallel.
It's a confusing diagram, certainly wouldn't pass as a flow diagram or a schmatic. It's more like a nonfunctional illustration.
ankornuta ~ The inverter you posted the link to would do the trick, but you may need another trailer to haul the batteries to run it. 3000 watts is a bunch. It would be enough to run you Air Conditioner. You would need 250 amps of battery to run that at full capacity for one hour. A group 27 RV battery is rated for around 100 amp hours and you don't want to run them down to zero.
If you use 5 amps for a tv and laptop, thats 550 watts or close to 50 amps of 12 volt power. Basicly you could run those two devices for around an hour with one RV battery. Two hours would run that one battery flat and damage it.
Full hookups or a good generator would be my suggestion for that type of power useage.
If I can manage to move my trailer so I can get into it this weekend, I plan to start the wiring. I'm not installing any electronic equipment yet, but I want to make sure I know what exactly I will have to install so I know where to run the wires to.
When my trailer was built, it had two sets of wiring, 12V and 110V... but no charger, converter or inverter. I'm going to be replacing all of that old wiring with new wiring and hopefully, eventually, a converter/inverter/charger to manage the power.
I think I'll probably end up installing the power equipment in the cabinet by the front door on the curb side. That way it won't be too far from the batteries and will still be readily accessible.
There is only one reasonable solution. Use strategory and go nukular.
I was thinking the shore power went to the battery to the converter to the inverter so you could have 120 v plugs when boondocking without a generator. Guess that's wrong. Glad I'm only on the ripping out the floor stage and I have lots of time to study.
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Dave and Joanne
1963 Flying Cloud
2005 Silverado 4x4 3/4 Ton
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