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Old 04-26-2006, 09:58 PM   #239
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Originally Posted by Over59
If you have some specifc question I would be glad to share.
The is not a mouse freindly environment. Also nothing to hold onto water that may get in. Not in the walls or belly pan. Why an engineer would put sponge in the walls of a trailer is beyond comprehension.
Paul, did you use metal tape to adhere the foil insulation to the edges of the wood? Also, what did you use to "stick" the foam between the frame rails?

Thanks!
-Andrew
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Old 04-27-2006, 03:00 PM   #240
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Sweet! New Wheel Wells

I just got back to my office from the sheet metal shop. They finished my new wheel well covers (the inside piece of the wheel well). The old ones were rusted badly and broken. I had the new ones made from a thicker gauge sheet metal since they act as the bottom of the wardrobes and bathroom storage.

Labor and materials; only cost me $116! I think that's pretty good. They did a wonderful job. I'll post pictures later when I get home.

I talked to them about doing my belly pan as well, since that's a little beyond me at this point, I think.
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Old 04-27-2006, 08:33 PM   #241
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That sounds like a pretty good deal. I had to have the pan that the black tank sits in redone. $220 for that. For what its worth, I por-15'd mine (actually silver Eastwood, because that's what I had left over). The old one was rusted pretty badly in places.
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Old 04-30-2006, 08:13 PM   #242
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That sounds like a pretty good deal. I had to have the pan that the black tank sits in redone. $220 for that. For what its worth, I por-15'd mine (actually silver Eastwood, because that's what I had left over). The old one was rusted pretty badly in places.
Yeah, I'm going to POR-15 my wheel wells (inner and outer). I think I'm also going to do the channel before attaching it to the floor.
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Old 05-09-2006, 09:35 PM   #243
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Tis the Season

Blah! It's starting to get so hot here. I'm wondering if I should take a little break for the summer, maybe from mid-June to mid-September... I want to get the floor and belly pan done. But if I do that... well then I might as well put the tile down and attach the body
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Old 05-09-2006, 11:24 PM   #244
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ankornuta
Blah! It's starting to get so hot here. I'm wondering if I should take a little break for the summer, maybe from mid-June to mid-September... I want to get the floor and belly pan done. But if I do that... well then I might as well put the tile down and attach the body
It might go triple digit tomorrow, but the mornings are nice. I would want to get things covered up before the August weather gets here. Go Suns!
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Old 05-10-2006, 12:54 AM   #245
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Cool in the SW - here anyway!

A -

Sounds like you are making really good progress on the AS. Glad to hear of your 'semi' reasonable adventure into the sheet metal world. Not like I have a lot of experience here, but hey, it sounds like a really good price!?

Stay with the work.... we had a wicked Cold Front (ABQ) come through which, with the WILD winds actually obscured/blocked visibility of the mountains (3/4 Naut.Mi.) and nearly closed the interstate because of low/NO visibility.

Summer ain't here quite yet.....

I was actually under SilverToy, this afternoon, when I had a windgust actually lift a 5 pound sledge and move it about 2 feet, while it was sitting on a wiring diagram... Getting the rear stabilizer(s) re-attached after a re-jigger and a repair. Anyway, stick with it and 'Git-er-done' to whatever degree you can!

Peace

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Old 05-10-2006, 11:59 AM   #246
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Thanks Axel!

And AzFlyCaster... I grew up in So. California... so I was kind of cheering for the Lakers. Perhaps I'll have to change my tune soon
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Old 05-10-2006, 12:04 PM   #247
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Floor Frustration

I want to bolt my floor down this weekend. I've got it all fitted. However, it just occurred to me that my holding tanks (under the floor) are blocking me from tightening the elevator bolts in the back where the rear-most sheets of plywood join up.

Has anyone put the bolt part on the top-side? I guess I could use a forstner bit to make room for it, then cut the bolt shaft off once tightened. Do you think this will work?

Also, if anyone with a late 50's, early 60's trailer could send me a picture of how close the body is to the rear bumber, I'd appreciate that, just to make sure I've got the rear-most sheet of plywood lined up properly and cut to the correct length.

Thanks!
-Andrew
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Old 06-11-2006, 09:03 PM   #248
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Heat

It officially got too hot to keep working outside here in Phoenix in mid-May. Some may disagree with me... but I can't stand being out in this heat. This project is on-hold until it cools down again, probably late September.
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Old 06-25-2006, 11:02 PM   #249
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Misc

So I braved the heat this morning and decided to go out and do some misc cleanup/organization work on the trailer project. I only lasted about two hours before the weather wilted me and I quit for the day.

But what I did accomplish was okay. I moved the wood floor (which is not bolted down) off of the frame and onto some supports to make sure it doesn't bow or get wet. I also moved the belly skin to a location where I could make a better assesment of it's condition; there is no way it can be saved. It's got holes and tears all in it. I'm going to pay a shop to make me a new belly pan once I get the floor secured and tiled, but I think I want to use a thicker aluminum than the original.

Also, I noticed that the silver paint that I used on the bumper, steps and hitch kind of.... rubs off. I wonder if it's because I didn't rough up the POR-15 enough before painting. I'm going to try rough sanding the paint that's on there now and repainting. It's a good quality paint designed for metal, so I'm assuming it's just the way I applied it that's causing the problem.
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Old 06-26-2006, 07:37 AM   #250
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Did you get answers?

Quote:
Originally Posted by ankornuta
I want to bolt my floor down this weekend. I've got it all fitted. However, it just occurred to me that my holding tanks (under the floor) are blocking me from tightening the elevator bolts in the back where the rear-most sheets of plywood join up.

Has anyone put the bolt part on the top-side? I guess I could use a forstner bit to make room for it, then cut the bolt shaft off once tightened. Do you think this will work?

Also, if anyone with a late 50's, early 60's trailer could send me a picture of how close the body is to the rear bumber, I'd appreciate that, just to make sure I've got the rear-most sheet of plywood lined up properly and cut to the correct length.

Thanks!
-Andrew
Andrew, Did you get an answer on the elevator bolts? You do not want bolts into those tanks. In regards the body and bumper; On my Tradewind the water flowed down the face of the aluminum, was trapped by the sewage hose storage and rotted the flooring
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Old 06-28-2006, 07:34 PM   #251
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Andrew, Did you get an answer on the elevator bolts? You do not want bolts into those tanks. In regards the body and bumper; On my Tradewind the water flowed down the face of the aluminum, was trapped by the sewage hose storage and rotted the flooring
Nope, no word on the bolts from anybody, but I think I'm going use one of two techniques:
1. Weld a nut under the cross member and screw the bolt into the nut, making sure it doesn't stick down too far.
2. Insert the bolts over the water tanks upside down, with the smooth head underneath. The bolts will be secured from the top. I think this is the best approach.

I don't have sewage host storage in the back and won't be adding it for that very reason. You definitely don't want water sitting at floor level outside the trailer.
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Old 07-11-2006, 11:30 PM   #252
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Water Tank Sealing

So I just couldn't resist, in spite of the 108 degree weather AND humidity; I started working on the trailer again. I've mostly been doing misc work, like POR-15'ing the wheel wells and the u-channel, doing additional coats of paint on the bumpers and steps, etc. I also decided to redo the insulation on top of my water tanks because it's too thick and was compressed in places rendering it somewhat ineffective. I figured I would pressure test the seals on the water tanks and pipes again as long as I had everything exposed again. And it's a good thing I did!

I found leaks where my plastic drain pipes connect via "flex fittings" into the black ABS tanks. They only leak when the tanks are totally full and I push on them, but it still bothers me. I used regular white silicon to seal around these fittings where they go into the ABS tanks. Is that what everyone else has used, or could that be my problem?
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