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Old 04-20-2006, 12:37 AM   #211
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Well, the good news is I'm going to Tucson this weekend and the Grand Canyon next weekend. The bad news is... I don't get to work on my trailer for two weeks and it's starting to get hot.

Tomorrow I'm going to the sheet metal shop to have some new wheel well covers fabricated. The wheel wells themselves are in good shape, but the pieces that go over them are all rusty and bent up. I think I might have them use a slightly heavier gauge steel since things get stacked on these wheel wells inside of the trailer (i.e. they are the bottoms of the closets and the base of the bathroom cabinet.

On Friday I'm going to a flooring store to get some Marmoleum samples.
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Old 04-20-2006, 02:54 AM   #212
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What is it.....?????

Ankorn -

In the photos that you posted most recently of you progress. There is a 'line' some 12 inches or so upstream from the Valterra outlet. What, pray tell is that? from or to??????

Can't be a tank monitor since this is WAY downstream from the usual measuring point for that. SO.... WHAT.....IS.....IT??????

Thanks

Axel
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Old 04-20-2006, 11:35 AM   #213
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverToy
Ankorn -

In the photos that you posted most recently of you progress. There is a 'line' some 12 inches or so upstream from the Valterra outlet. What, pray tell is that? from or to??????

Can't be a tank monitor since this is WAY downstream from the usual measuring point for that. SO.... WHAT.....IS.....IT??????

Axel
Howdy Axel... I think what you're talking about is the clear tube that's lying on top of the black tank line leading to the dump valve. If so, that's a connection for a hose which leads to a high pressure washer attachment that I mounted inside of the black water tank for washing it out when dumping. It has a vaccum breaker on it to prevent "sucking" that nasty water out into the hose. When all is said and done, the connection for the hose/city water is going to be attached to one of the outriggers near the dump valve.

Does this help?

-Andrew
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Old 04-23-2006, 05:53 PM   #214
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The First Shiney Part and Tile

I was out of town yesterday so I didn't get to work on the trailer. Today I got a little bit done; put the finishing touches on the holding tanks (never leave well enough alone), and painted the steps, bumper and hitch with this really cool aluminum color paint. I'm getting ready to put the floor back on, so this was something I had to get done first.

It's the first shiney bit of aluminum (color) on this old Airstream in probably 30 years.

Last week I got large 13x13" samples of Marmoleum from a flooring company here in Arizona. That stuff is great; it's made from powdered cork and has a really nice feel to it. It's priced similiarly to hard wood; about $4/sq ft so it's more spendy than linoleum, but it has a lot of real positives too. First and foremost, the colors and patterns that it's available in are very retro looking. The color goes all the way through the tile so that if it gets scratched and as it wears it won't show that much. It comes in rolls, which I like. And finally, it has the feel of a cork floor... very warm and somewhat soft. Oh, and it's recyclable, just in case.

Has anyone calculated the exact square footage of the floor of a 26' Airstream? I figure it's right around 200 sq ft.
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Old 04-24-2006, 11:56 PM   #215
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I know I'm still just working on getting the floor back on, but I've decided that I am going to replace this counter top with a two person dinette. It's curb-side, opposite the galley. I took all the dimensions today and it'll work out pretty nicely. I got the idea looking at a new 28' Safari....

It should be possible to drop the table and lay down one of the seat backs to make a single bed, as well.

Geeze. I can't wait until I can start working on the inside (AKA have the shell back on the floor).
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Old 04-25-2006, 11:39 AM   #216
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Wood Sealants

I need to cut and attach my floor soon. I wanted to do it this weekend, but I have plans to go up to the Grand Canyon with some friends. So it has to wait until next weekend.

I've seen lots of people comment on different epoxies, varethane, etc for sealing the wood floor. What's wrong with using something like, say, Thompson's water seal? It's cheap, easy to get and seems to do a great job of sealing up outdoor wood work...
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Old 04-25-2006, 12:06 PM   #217
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Thompson's won't last and will need to be reapplied (at least that's the case for exterior applications). I'm not sure you can use it "indoors". Last, I think I read here someplace that Thompson's has chemicals in it that are no good for the aluminum.

The epoxy and Varathane route that I took was not difficult and only cost about $150. Replacing that stooopid floor is the last thing I want to do again. It was probably the best money I've spent (so far).

It's a little time consuming to do the epoxy/varathane thing, but I'll bet you're going to keep that classic camper for a long time (I know I am!). I'll also bet that ten years from now you'll be very happy you spent the extra time and money.

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Old 04-25-2006, 02:52 PM   #218
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Thompson's won't last and will need to be reapplied (at least that's the case for exterior applications). I'm not sure you can use it "indoors". Last, I think I read here someplace that Thompson's has chemicals in it that are no good for the aluminum.

The epoxy and Varathane route that I took was not difficult and only cost about $150. Replacing that stooopid floor is the last thing I want to do again. It was probably the best money I've spent (so far).

It's a little time consuming to do the epoxy/varathane thing, but I'll bet you're going to keep that classic camper for a long time (I know I am!). I'll also bet that ten years from now you'll be very happy you spent the extra time and money.

Jim
I don't mind extra time or money. Anything that keeps me from having to do this to this trailer again is worth it. Now... that's not to say I'm not interested in doing another one after I'm finished with this one...

That's interesting that the Thompson's may be corrosive to aluminum, I hadn't really considered that. I've heard it's pretty nasty stuff.

Any particular recommendations on brands of epoxy or varethane, as well as quantities? I'd hate to buy too little or too much.
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Old 04-25-2006, 03:03 PM   #219
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Ank, look at my Full Monty thread about January/February time frame. I think I described it in detail there. If not, I'll fill in the blanks.

I used 2 quarts of West epoxy and two small tins of hardner. Also, 1 gallon of Varathane (brand name) for the areas not epoxied. The West materials cost around $90, the Varathane around $30, IIRC.

Two coats of epoxy top & bottom around the edges, two coats of varathane on the bottom of floor, three on top (everywhere not epoxied).

Your camper is about the same size as mine, I think. So those quantities should be about right.

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Old 04-25-2006, 06:49 PM   #220
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The floor should be around 158 sq ft in a 26 foot trailer.......

This is some fun reading. I have seen "Spar Varnish" used around here somewhere.
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Old 04-25-2006, 09:38 PM   #221
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The floor should be around 158 sq ft in a 26 foot trailer.......

This is some fun reading. I have seen "Spar Varnish" used around here somewhere.
Thanks! The width of the trailer (about 88") makes it so that I basically have to buy two rolls of the tile (79" wide) and waste almost all of one roll. That's irritating. Maybe I can lay it side-to-side instead of front-to-back.
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Old 04-25-2006, 09:46 PM   #222
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Started on the Floor

When I got home from work today there was still quite a bit of daylight. Okay, well, there was about 30 minutes of daylight left but I decided to take advantage of it anyway since I'm out of town this weekend and (I just realized) next weekend.

I started cutting my plywood for the floor. I can't possibly explain how happy it makes me to see flooring on this old frame again. Since I won't get a chance to seal it up for a while, I wrapped everything very well with plastic sheeting before cutting out for the night.

I've included a picture of the first two sheets of plywood cut to the right dimensions. Oh, I've also included a picture of our Italian Greyhound, "Danger", picking out his favorite pattern from the tile samples I brought home. In spite of his choice, I think I may go with the second one from the left.

While I'm thinking about flooring I thought I'd throw this out there; when I was at the Home Depot this weekend I was reading the packaging on the bubble foil insulation that they carry. It had an R value of, say, "8". But then it had this disclaimer on the package in fine print saying that includes the anticipated insulating propereties of 2x4s, plywood, etc that would also be found in a building. Well, when insulating an aluminum trailer we don't have those materials so it makes me wonder if that stuff is really all that great. Maybe this was just a cheap brand or something... anyone have any ideas on this?
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Old 04-26-2006, 07:06 AM   #223
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Ank, I've had a few questions about that stuff, too. The one that Lowes carries has an R-value of about 4, as near as I tell (depending on where/how it is installed). I'm still arguing with myself over buying the stuff. The biggest problem is the cost. It runs about $1.00 per lineal foot and up. Kinda pricey.

Still, lots of folks here have used it and love it. That should speak volumes about its usefullness.

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Old 04-26-2006, 08:57 AM   #224
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I have been out camping with my 63 a few times now, always in cold weather. Well, cold for me...around 40F at night. I utilized the foil insulation in my 1963 Overlander.
My perception is that it works every bit as well, if not better than the fiberglass batts. It does seem that it has better heat reflection,if that is possible. There is only little tharmal charging when the trailer sits outside in the sun, all closed up. Stepping in after a few hours does not give me an impression of "heat" inside, just mildly warm, and not at all stuffy.
I realize that this is not a scientific explanation, but merely a practical impression of the insulating system so far. I believe that the bubble foil works better than the batting did in my TradeWind.
I see the advantages as being clean, non-absorbant, non-allergenic, and light in weight.
I see it's disatvantages as being very labor intensive to properly install with the essential air space on both sides, it is expensive, and it's sound deadening qualities seem somewhat less effective than the batting.
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