What type of R-30 did you choose? The pink stuff or something else? Was it expensive?
Jim
It's not pink, it's a yellowish fiberglass insulation. Backed and unbacked, depending on where it's going. I don't recall the exact manufacturer name. This is just for around the water tanks, though. I'll be using bubble foil in addition to fiberglass insulation for between the frame rails and the body walls.
I got everything I needed to finish up my holding tank plumbing this weekend. I got caught up with a bunch of other chores around the house today, so I only got to do a little work on the trailer, but I did finish all the dry-fitting of the holding tank plumbing, including vent lines for black and gray tanks, drains to the gray tank, drain to the black, etc, etc. I also picked up a tank washing system that mounts into the black tank and will hook up to a hose under the trailer, near the dump valve.
Hopefully I'll find some time after work this week to drill the holes in the holding tanks and glue all the pipes together.
Here's some pictures. I've only just zip-tied the pipes into place and the tanks still aren't insulated, that will come soon.
Are any of those long horizontal runs for black water? If not, ignore my remarks. If so, they seem like rather long trails to move them little doggies along the pipe if you don't have a household volume of water to encourage them. The best line from a toilet appears to be a straight drop. Perhaps you haven't yet cut a hole in the top of a tank for the toilet flange? I'd hate for you to have a traffic jam after the floor is installed. Just trying to think ahead here. Nice progress by the way!
__________________
Fred Coldwell, WBCCI #1510, AIR #2675
Denver, Colorado - WBCCI Unit 24
Charter Associate Member FCU
Vintage Airstream Club Historian
Airstream Life "Old Aluminum Adventures"
Are any of those long horizontal runs for black water? If not, ignore my remarks. If so, they seem like rather long trails to move them little doggies along the pipe if you don't have a household volume of water to encourage them. The best line from a toilet appears to be a straight drop. Perhaps you haven't yet cut a hole in the top of a tank for the toilet flange? I'd hate for you to have a traffic jam after the floor is installed. Just trying to think ahead here. Nice progress by the way!
I like your use of euphimisms
No, none of them are for black water, two are vents and one is the gray water drain for the shower and sinks. The toilet drops straight down into the black water tank.
On a different note, I can really appreciate the rear bath layout now, after plumbing for mid-bath. It gets very crowded there in the middle of the trailer.
The two RV-specific units are similarly priced, coming in right around $900 when all is said and done. I'm not sure if better prices are available elsewhere. Modifying a portable or window-mount A/C unit would be quite a bit less money.
....
Thanks for sharing, good craftsmanship and nice photos.
Uwe has a clean installation of a window mount converted a/c. Have been waiting to get some feedback from him during the heat of the summer.
I will not start my restoration until I have a bunch of cash, my guess is $10,000.
The slimline carrier rooftop is tempting though.
Thanks for sharing, good craftsmanship and nice photos.
Uwe has a clean installation of a window mount converted a/c. Have been waiting to get some feedback from him during the heat of the summer.
I will not start my restoration until I have a bunch of cash, my guess is $10,000.
The slimline carrier rooftop is tempting though.
R
Waiting on the restoration until you have the money saved up to do it all in one fell swoop is actually a really good idea. Or even better yet, ordering all the parts and keeping everything stored and then doing it all at once. Of course, it helps to know exactly what you're going to need.
If/when I do another one, that's the way I'm going to do it. I think $10k for the restoration might be a little high... but better safe than sorry
Here's some pictures. I've only just zip-tied the pipes into place and the tanks still aren't insulated, that will come soon.
It seems that on most trailers I've seen, they keep the gray water lines above the floor as much as possible (behind cabinets and such) until they get near the tank. I don't know if it'll be an issue, but you'll probably be sloshing water back and forth in those long horizontal lines if you travel with the gray tank anywhere near full. Depending upon how you run the traps and such I wonder if there could be any slosh out back into sinks, or especially the shower pan.
This is just a thought, but I have no personal experience plumbing a trailer to confirm if this could really be an issue or not.
No, none of them are for black water, two are vents and one is the gray water drain for the shower and sinks. The toilet drops straight down into the black water tank.
On a different note, I can really appreciate the rear bath layout now, after plumbing for mid-bath. It gets very crowded there in the middle of the trailer.
ankornuta,
What is the distance between your axles and the drain lines? Also, where are you putting the tank drains?
Thanks,
Bill
__________________
Bill Kerfoot, WBCCI/VAC/CAC/El Camino Real Unit #5223
Just my personal opinion
1973 Dodge W200 PowerWagon, 1977 Lincoln Continental
1979 23' Safari, and 1954 29' Double Door Liner Orange, CA
What is the distance between your axles and the drain lines? Also, where are you putting the tank drains?
Thanks,
Bill
Hi Bill. The drain lines look pretty close to the axles in the pictures I noticed, but they don't stick more than an 1" below the frame rails where the axles are. I think the reason they look SO close is because the rear axle is currently "cantilevered" up (the front one down).
Tank drains exit a couple feet behind the rear axle; about two feet back for the black tank and about five feet back for the gray tank. They meet up there with a Valterra valve. Where the dump valve is, there is also a place to attach a hose which connects to my black tank washer.
I am lowballing so the wife does not freak out. It could easily go way over that unless I do everything, i.e. parts only.
R
LOL, I hear you So far I've done everything myself on this project... with the exception of all the support I've gotten from these forums! Then again, this has taken up almost all of my weekend time since January (which your wife might not like either).
LOL, I hear you So far I've done everything myself on this project... with the exception of all the support I've gotten from these forums! Then again, this has taken up almost all of my weekend time since January (which your wife might not like either).
-Andrew
Andrew,
It is somthing rarely mentioned in this forum just how expensive it really is to keep up an Airstream. But when one looks at the price of a new unit, a bargain! I attribute this to Wally Byam, "Talk is cheap, Airstreams are not."
The wife and kids have fun with my 'quantity time' with things Airstream.
You are going great, keep up the good work and it is so nice to see progress on such a sweet object of art.
So how much weight is too much weight to put up on the hitch?
I was thinking about getting two Trojan L16H batteries (6 volts each) to put up on the hitch with the propane tanks. They're about 11.5x7x17" and weigh 121 pounds each. However, they each have 885 minutes of capacity at 25 amps load. Compared to a typical RV battery, series 27, which has a capacity approximately 1/6 of that and still weighs in at around 50 pounds. So anyhow...
The "model 40" propane tanks I've been looking at hold 9.4 gallons each and weigh 20 pounds empty. So loaded they're about 119.52 pounds together (or almost 60 pounds each) when full.
Is 362+ pounds too much weight to put up there on the hitch? To me it seems like one of the structurally strongest points on the trailer, but I wanted to get some opinions on this because this is fairly concentrated weight.
Okay, jumping back to the batteries... I know the inverter is going to lose some energy, but if the A/C takes 14.1 approximate full-load amps for cooling, and the batteries can maintain 25 amps for about 14 hours... does that mean that this would be enough power to run the A/C on battery power for a several hours? I think I'm missing something.
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