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Old 09-02-2012, 12:23 PM   #113
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Looking really great, Mark! Good luck on those belly pan corners--I absolutely hated that part on mine.

Is your back window all frosted? My only thought there, having pulled mine a bit now, is that it's really nice to be able to see what is behind you by looking all the way through the trailer. At least that's assuming that your tow vehicle will let you look through the trailer with your inside rear view mirror.

cheers,
steve
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Old 09-04-2012, 09:58 AM   #114
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1954 22' Flying Cloud
Escondido , California
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Floor paint...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparky57 View Post
Framed in the door step with some metal and put a new lid on the step in prep for the rest of the floor...which is now installed as of Sunday night. Poured myself a large whiskey sour and went to bed. Pics later.
I read someones comment a long time ago that said simply 'the floor is epic'. So so true.
My floor approach worked well overall- I used bolts, washers and nylok nuts around the perimeter in the c-channel, then used those massive self-taping trailer deck bolts from VTS for the middle. Underlayed the floor with a nice thick bead of DAP Dynaflex 230, screwed and glued the 2 sheets of flooring together with PL400 and lots of screws. It isn't as stiff as I would want, it has screw holes through the top side which is a draw back, but overall it is in, it was relatively easy to slide under the c-channel, it fits and I can move on to the next item.

Next I will paint the floor with a top coat of something- probably latex porch and floor paint. It is expoxy now, but want something that looks nice when someone opens a door or hatch area and sees the floor...Any comments?
If you haven't painted the floor yet, why not just use your final floor product (vinyl) over the whole floor so everything is consistent? I'm not sure if you need the extra protection with the paint or not but maybe you could just touch up the areas that need the water protection and then cover the floor with whatever you decide. Everything is looking so good. I am painting the tank mounting system today for my flying cloud and will post photos soon. I am also using the see level monitoring system but haven't received it yet. I'd be interested in seeing photos of that too. I like how you closed in the step area. Looks really clean. Best of luck to you.

JT
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Old 09-04-2012, 11:13 PM   #115
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@JT- I just bought the paint yesterday, it was on sale for $30 so i thought what the heck. I plan on flooring with a non-sheet vinyl product...probably laminate or bamboo, so I want to lay it around the cabinets...So when I open the cabinets I will see though to the floor, which would be wood. I tested the paint-- not sticking to the epoxy...argh!

Be interested to see your tank mount system....I forgot to paint mine before I put it on, so then I had to mask it off and spray it after....

I closed in the stairs with galvanized sheet metal, made 2 little side pieces and a top, the riveted them in place. Was really easy to do because I got my father in law to do it for me .

I don't have pics of the See Level system, but I ran a separate wire for each sensor back to the panel, not sure if that is what you planned. Ran them all under the frame then popped them through the floor.

@Steve-- Good point on the no-see-through window...Never thought of that. I do have a back-up camera, but not for while driving...
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Old 09-06-2012, 11:01 PM   #116
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2 Polishers arrived from Harbor Freight today, as well as a big kit of polishing supplies from Jestco. This should be fun. I used my little PrincessAuto aluminum polishing kit to buff a few areas already and that went well...
Installed the porch light tonite. Cleaned up the old socket and put it back in (hope it works!) then replaced the screws with #8 SS and lots of Trempro.
Also still fiddling with the door -- turns out the old latch is higher (or the door is lower?) since I reassembled everything--- lower by 1/4 of an inch! Had to remove the strike plate and drill out the bolt hole , then redrill screw holes for the strike plate and put it back together. Now the door shuts firm. Also had to shim one of the hinges to remove a tiny little rub when the door was closing...now one more polish and I can rebuild the threshold.

Anyone find the floor around the door sags?Mine does...thinking of building a big kick-ass threshold to screw the floor into to hold it flat and steady....

Mark
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Old 09-07-2012, 12:01 AM   #117
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparky57 View Post

Anyone find the floor around the door sags?Mine does...thinking of building a big kick-ass threshold to screw the floor into to hold it flat and steady....
Mine just got better and better as I added more structure to the trailer as a whole, Mark. Getting the inside skins back on makes a big difference. I used a piece of aluminum angle for the threshold and also welded a piece of steel angle under the floor a few inches inside. That piece and particularly the elevator bolts in it seemed to add a lot of strength to the floor.

Before you give up on your paint for the floor, is it possibly an amine blush problem? When epoxy cures it has like a waxy layer on top and if you use a rough Scotchbrite pad, like the brown ones, and rough it up real well, the paint may still stick. If memory serves, the amine blush is water soluble as well so scrubbing it wet probably helps too.

cheers,
steve
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Old 09-07-2012, 12:00 PM   #118
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparky57
@JT- I just bought the paint yesterday, it was on sale for $30 so i thought what the heck. I plan on flooring with a non-sheet vinyl product...probably laminate or bamboo, so I want to lay it around the cabinets...So when I open the cabinets I will see though to the floor, which would be wood. I tested the paint-- not sticking to the epoxy...argh!

Be interested to see your tank mount system....I forgot to paint mine before I put it on, so then I had to mask it off and spray it after....

I closed in the stairs with galvanized sheet metal, made 2 little side pieces and a top, the riveted them in place. Was really easy to do because I got my father in law to do it for me .

I don't have pics of the See Level system, but I ran a separate wire for each sensor back to the panel, not sure if that is what you planned. Ran them all under the frame then popped them through the floor.

@Steve-- Good point on the no-see-through window...Never thought of that. I do have a back-up camera, but not for while driving...
Hey Mark,

Just got the see level monitor yesterday so that's what I'll be doing today in addition to finishing the tank rack install. I will probably run the wires to the curb side as I will want all of my monitoring devices inside the wardrobe closet. Out of sight but easily accessible. I'll post some photos of the tanks later. Have a productive day.

JT
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Old 09-07-2012, 07:16 PM   #119
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Got my SeeLevel tank monitoring system in and mounted, (well the sensors and the tanks anyway) today. Sensors are supposed to be 1 1/2 " away from metal. I put some recommended rubber ( old bicycle tube ) where I needed to so that I would get more accurate readings and the metal rack won't interfere with the signal. I know I'll get some flack from someone that a couple of he threaded rods aren't perfectly vertical but I guess if you want a job done right, ya gotta do it yourself. Next time...

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Street side exit ports.

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Rear brackets. The bottom two nuts will allow me to tighten the tanks snug up to the floor after I get it bolted down.

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Here you can see the SeeLevel sensor with the wires. Rubber between sensor and rack.

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I also started on the floor replacement. Still need to do some trimming and it's not a 22" radius as mentioned earlier somewhere. At least not on the PO floor. It begins to curve slightly at each beam of the hitch tongue. I'll just cut it oversized and use the shell as my template. Wish me luck. The previous floor didn't fit perfectly so what have I got to lose, right? I'll let you know how it works out.
Anybody got any ideas on how to drill the holes in my floor to match up with the existing ones in my frame?
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Old 09-07-2012, 10:24 PM   #120
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Nice pictures. They guy i bought my gauges off told me to top coat them to protect them from the weather, he recommended a rubberized paint. Might be worth contacting the vendor and seeing what they say...I wanted to protect them from road hazards and stuff.
As for the floor bolts- I used the VTS self taping screws everywhere, used grade 8 bolts and washers in the C channel areas. Never worried about re-using the old bolt holes because half of the them were cut off flush and twisted, etc..
How are you going to do your belly pan banana wraps? Did you keep the old ones?
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Old 09-08-2012, 09:10 AM   #121
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Yeah, the manufacturer recommends a 3M product. A rubberized product to protect from rocks and moisture. Guess I should test the system first before covering it so that if there are any problems, I can return it.
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Old 09-08-2012, 09:24 AM   #122
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Sparky, I have agonized over the banana wraps and just file that thought away figuring I will tackle that problem when I have to. I do have the old front one and that should help. I think I might use the old rear floor panel and build a wooden mock-up of the steel frame work so that I can form the banana wrap upside down. I haven't seen that method before but it seem like it would be much easier than working under the trailer. Do you know if the belly skins are screwed into the frame from underneath? With the flexing that takes place, maybe it would tear at the attachment points.
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Old 09-09-2012, 08:14 PM   #123
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I just put my first corner in today! Made a paper card template and used clecos to hold it in place while i folded and shaped it...Took about 3 tries till I had one I liked, then cut the metal and slid it between the c Channel and body and it fit! Too tired to rivet it place today. I used 6061 t6 .032 metal. It is very stiff, much stiffer than the old BP material, but it did bend ok, and has some memory so should stay in place....I hope!
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Old 09-09-2012, 09:10 PM   #124
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparky57
I just put my first corner in today! Made a paper card template and used clecos to hold it in place while i folded and shaped it...Took about 3 tries till I had one I liked, then cut the metal and slid it between the c Channel and body and it fit! Too tired to rivet it place today. I used 6061 t6 .032 metal. It is very stiff, much stiffer than the old BP material, but it did bend ok, and has some memory so should stay in place....I hope!
Please send photos! That's on my to do short list so I'm really interested in your process. Thanks, JT
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Old 09-09-2012, 10:06 PM   #125
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This weeks work...

Here are some pics..

Got the door finished- pretty much, a little more polish later on but good for now
Got a new luggage door built, insulated, painted and installed with a new lock
Sanded, washed primed and painted the floor with low VOC porch paint from Behr (love their paints) - Thanks for the tip Steve on the 'amine blush'...paint is sticking now!
belly pan banana wrap #1 in place, just needs to be riveted in place...
stripped the paint off the old screen door locks, primed and painted them too
the banana wrap template....not glorious to look at, but it did the trick

Mark
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Old 09-10-2012, 10:35 AM   #126
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Wow! Looks great Mark! Thanks for posting those. The banana wraps don't seem so intimidating now. I'll be interested in seeing how you deal with the area around the tanks. Mine is similar. The floor really turned out nice.

Cheers! JT
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