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Old 07-11-2012, 08:51 AM   #99
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1971 21' Globetrotter
Arvada , Colorado
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Originally Posted by Sparky57 View Post
Here are some pics. Got the original pressure water filler chromed up- just placed it in the hole for a glamour shot... Looks ridiculously shiny against the dull aluminum. Also, a picture of the licence plate tail light and camera, the Hehr window cranks with a repair to the knob using SS bolt and the new screens, and new LED tail lights....anyone know what kind of rivets those are? rear window prepped for install, a one of my 'smiley faced' rivets, and the original dealer decal...brass...maybe I should chrome that too ?

@Peter- thanks for the tips, I will try some more buck riveting tonite using your advice.
So, best to take the drip rails off, in your experience?

Mark
Smiley face rivets. Does your rivet set and rivet type match? You need a 470 set if you are using a 470 rivet. If you are using the VTS (which have 455 heads) rivets you will need a 455 set. It also looks like you are shooting them to long and to hard which will cause the rivet to start to smear to one side and leave a smiley on one side. Smileys are also caused by the gun not square with the rivet.
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Old 07-11-2012, 09:00 PM   #100
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1957 26' Overlander
Victoria , British Columbia
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Ok- I'll have another go tonite on the back window. I am using the VTS rivets and the VTS rivet set, so sounds like I am justing needing some practice on technique. Heading out there now!
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Old 07-11-2012, 11:01 PM   #101
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1957 26' Overlander
Victoria , British Columbia
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Can opener approach

Ok- Got all set up and then realized the rivets I have are too small for windows-- need the longer ones! Shoot.

Started on removing what's left of the belly pan... Been dreading this, my BP is wrapped around the c-channel (which I noticed is made of 6061-t6 aluminum, so my BP probably is too). I used my angled tip needle nose pliers and pried up a corner of the folded BP off of the the c-channel from the inside of the trailer... then just ripped the folded piece right off in long strips - came apart just like a can opener. I drilled out the rivets, knocked out the hidden rivets and boom, in 30 minutes I dropped 8' of BP. That was so fun. Can't wait to get it all down.
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Old 07-11-2012, 11:07 PM   #102
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1959 26' Overlander
Nowhere , Washington
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Great update on your progress. Everything is looking first class. I wish I had some good advice on the riveting, but I found it really came down to lots of practice. Once you get it figured out, you will quickly become an expert.

I love the original dealer plate. My suggestion would be to clean it up and keep it. They are a cool piece of the trailer's history.

I've been meaning to shoot you a photo of the light you sent us. Here it is. We had looked all over for a good replacement light for the kitchen and couldn't find anything that looked right. The period light you sent us is perfect. I installed an LED bulb and it provides nice lighting over the sink area.

Can't tell you how cool it is to see another old Overlander getting a proper restoration so close to us. I hope we can meet up on a camping trip sometime.

Norm
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Old 07-12-2012, 04:34 PM   #103
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1957 26' Overlander
Victoria , British Columbia
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Bunks

Light looks awesome- love it. Glad to see it installed, happy it got re-used and that'd be really cool if we could meet one day. That'd be fun.

Looking through your blog and I am doing the bunks too- I have 3 daughters so was planning on 4 bunks. Is your top bunk same width as bottom? How wide are they? 30"?

Mark
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Old 07-12-2012, 11:31 PM   #104
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Mark,

The top bunks are a bit smaller than the bottom bunks and are probably only suitable for young children (maybe up to 9 or 10 years old and up to about 100 pounds I'd guess). The top bunks are 28" x 75" and 4 1/4 inch tall/deep.

Let me know if you need any other dimensions or more detailed photos. Brian and Lynetta (Someday '59) built their own bunks for their trailer and they turned out great.

I really like the bunk beds. I've noticed that if you look at lots of photos of the older trailers, there seem to have been factory installed bunk beds and dealer installed bunk beds. Mine had the dealer installed (it's on the bill of sale I got with the trailer). Many of the factory installed bunks (probably not all as things were pretty random back in those days) have windows for the bunks. You can tell the factory bunk trailers from the two sets of short wide windows in the bedroom area - one high and one low. I'd love to get my hands on a set of those small windows and install them in my trailer someday.

Norm
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Old 07-17-2012, 07:57 AM   #105
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1954 22' Flying Cloud
Escondido , California
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I agree! That pile looks like candy to me! I'm desperately looking for some light fixtures, knobs, and some other hardware!
I've got some pinch latches, lighting fixtures, drawers and some door faces if you want them. They are pretty rough but if you pay for shipping, I'll send them to you.

JT
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Old 07-17-2012, 08:18 AM   #106
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1954 22' Flying Cloud
Escondido , California
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What Marcus has basically pointed out is that any full-floor replacement is for all practical purposes a shell-off project. It's just a matter of where the shell is stored during the work. Take a look at Someday59's blog. They hit a point where their shell began to fall off the frame. It can be done, but you just have to be aware of the fact that once the bellypan and floor is removed, the shell is airborne and can come crashing to the ground around your frame.

Norm
This wasn't the way it was in my case, at least. When I bought my trailer, the U channel was removed, there was no belly pan and the PO had screwed some 2x4's into the floor around the perimeter and screwed through the rivet holes into the 2x4's to keep it all together. the ribs of the shell sit on the U channel which is bolted to the floor on the perimeter. In my case, the ribs were sitting on the floor perimeter. I was able to tow the trailer about 50 miles at 55 mph to get it home in that condition but I wouldn't recommend doing that. My point is that as long as the shell ribs are kept inside the floor perimeter, there is no way for it to collapse around the floor.

JT
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Old 08-23-2012, 05:31 PM   #107
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Sparky,

I'm looking at your picture of the framed in steps, actually looking past the steps and seeing the tank brackets you installed for the holding tanks. Do you have any more detailed photos of that project? That's next on my list. Thanks, JT
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Old 08-23-2012, 11:06 PM   #108
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1957 26' Overlander
Victoria , British Columbia
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Belly pan blues, a nightmare leak and other "progress..."

OK, lets start with the leak in my black water tank, right where the flange of the tank (the male part) is glued to the ABS female part... it looks like some idiot didn't get a good twist on the joint during assembly.

So, re-gluing didn't work, just slowed the leak.
Sealing from the inside wouldn't work- can't get access to the tank or the pipe that far up.
Can't take the flange off the tank- it is part of the tank...
Can't fathom replacing the tank- it is possible but really it is part of the trailer now and is plumbed in with tornado rinsers and wired with sensors....not to mention expensive to swap out....
So, I chiseled, swore, cut, pried, prayed, swore and about 4 hours later I was able to coax the abs joint apart....Then I sanded down the tank flange, filled the little scars with JB Weld and put on a Fernco coupling and some pure silicone for good measure. Did this instead of re-gluing it. Didn't have the guts to re-glue it...Tested it out and it holds. Learned a lesson about rushing things...

Also did the first layer of insulation, just prodex against the skin. Next is Roxul Safe and Sound...

Next the belly pan....6061 T6 ,032. I thought it would be easier to bend, have more memory...it is hard to work, and the banana wraps are being a real bugger. I don't have templates and I don't have a clue how to rebuild them. Any tips? Anyone with a template, preferably for a 57 Overlander? I will just build the 4 corners, then put the remainder on around the wraps....but what a crazy corner to try to fabricate...Where to you start? The front? And then work around the side? Yikes....

Before the belly pan goes back on I will insulate the floor with 2" foam insulation, so I'll get a start on that. Using this styrofoam stuff with a reflective coating. Looks good and I am a sucker for shiny things.

Also, got a custom made tire holder ready to go on - did the test fit today and it fits. Just need to rig up a way to hold it in place...

@Breadloaf: I think I have some more pics- but post 81 has a few too. I basically used L channel screwed to the cross members. I set it back an 1/8 " from the floor level - enough for the tank flange to rest on. Then I bent up some 2" flat iron to the shape of the tank and screwed it to the cross- members....Had to weld a bit, grind a bit, etc...
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Old 08-28-2012, 11:01 AM   #109
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pics...

A few pics...
The first layer of insulation inside
The start of the under-floor insulation (Using recycled EPS foam witha reflective layer- 2", r7. Did the door with it too. Thinking of using the 1" EPS now instead of Roxul on the inside shell....that stuff is heavy, 25lbs a bag and I need 5 bags....alot of weight for a little warmth)
The tire carrier, yet to be installed.
The new, repaired and leak proof plumbing
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Old 09-02-2012, 12:31 AM   #110
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1957 26' Overlander
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A few days off work meant more time to work on the trailer. Managed to finally install the rear window with my newly arrived longer buck rivets...installed a , new back frame seal and frosted glass. Looks good. Built a new access door too, the old one was badly dented. Used 2024 t3 alclad and it didn't bend very well and the doubled over edges cracked, so I buck riveted that together too.
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Old 09-02-2012, 12:48 AM   #111
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1957 26' Overlander
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Installed the tire carrier too and need to decide if I am going to powder coat it black or leave it aluminum. Thoughts?
Also rebuilt the door completely, stripped the paint from the inner skins then sanded the corrosion off the door....lots of rust...that was a big surprise, had to sand it, then used alumiprep and alodine, then painted it with Tremclad rust paint primer. Installed the door lock, then reinstalled it, then after hours of trying to make it work discovered that it needed to be rekeyed again, this time properly! Now with the lock working I polished the inner skins. Replaced all the door seals after I picked all the old door seal glue off. Stripped the paint from the screen door latches and sands them down and primed them then painted them Hammered aluminum color. Installed the new screen. Old screen was brass...briefly considered cleaning it up, then went for galvanized instead...have to draw the line somewhere! Sanded the door frame down and then put the skin back on the door. Just need to buck rivet the door trim in a couple spots, then replace the door hinge rivets with buck rivets, and it is done!
Also made a paper template of the front banana wrap and gave it to my father in law to try to duplicate...cross fingers!
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Old 09-02-2012, 11:12 AM   #112
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Wow, you've been busy! Gotta see some pictures!

Kay
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